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Port, polish and shape. Helps to think of a carb as a miniature head. Clean up all entry and exit points of passages, remove burrs from fine drillings which may be disturbing flow and/or redrill if needed. Surface all sealing joints to be sure of perfect seal and then some reshaping of the main...

I have no idea what to tell you now as I worked this carby over a bit and the engine is probly a lot different than what you have. I started out putting a big idle jet in and left the 102 main to run in, but soon realised I was way too big for this engine setup and ended up back at the 37 idle...

There is nothing magic in that motor, its because of development like this that we know how to to make it. you can purchase and/or have made everything you need to build a 14hp 125 tomorrow if you wanted. 'Cept now its easier to get your hands on the good bits, its just engineering and money...

yeah the powroll cams were hardwelded. But that does not limit what you can do with the profile or timings. You can have practically any master grind you want reapplied to that cam and move the centres and advance where you want. Powroll cam had 104 degrees separation and the yosh about 110...

well got a chance to look at the motor this arvy. I have only had experience with 59mm pistons in these 140 engines and was able to acheive 11 and 12 compression with 3mm spaced under the alloy barrel and this is just practical with the cam chain length. This is why I suspected the 57mm piston...

That cam powroll is using has some old fashioned timings and is giving those engines some **** numbers. We have access now to much better cams thanks to the work of the aftermarket Japanese companies like yoshimura, takegawa and kitaco etc which have given us computer and dyno generated...

the remote resevoir is simply for mounting ease when there is no room

i forgot to add that, when lowering the head you are retarding the cam even further, so if you don't get the cam timing back to where it should be, you will be running a great amount of retard on a z40 cam. Not only reducing compression further but having a later exhaust valve closing time also...

as I said no suitable pistons + cam chain problems. But wait theres more....now that your grasping these issues try this. Now if you find the workable deck height and gasket thickness you will be forced without further modifications to live with the static compression ratio this gives. BUT you...

yeah thats some baaad advertising for both dyno co. and seller....I was waiting to see how long it would take for him to ask someone and find out what the problem with the dyno results was...

hahaha you know so little about these engines or dynoing that you can't see whats wrong with your little piece of maxpower paper. maxpower is a timely name for these guys....

don't be too hasty there damann33...just wait and see what Akunar has sent you, then mock it all up and measure everything

I dunno bout some of these figures I will check them exactly tomorrow. I just mocked up a 57mm piston from akunar in a motor this arvy. I used an alloy barrel with a 2mm spacer and .5 gaskets either side of it. This still brings the deck up short of stock but the piston is at least 1.8 in the...

No not in theory. Note i said to do it properly...and I mean also with a big cam which damann33 has a reasonably big cam. If you just bore the stock cylinder and use one of those pistons will work of course, but if you want to run the engine with optimised compression for the fuel you will be...

I have just got my hands on another of these 26mm carbys and am going to use it on an engine i am building. Stripped it right down today to have a look at the drillings and might have a crack at porting and redrilling this one to see how well can get it to work. The beauty of the 26 is that it...

in the head volume itself you will gain slightly over the stock head because Akunar uses flat head valves over the stock dished ones, but, as cactus mentioned, there are other variables in play once you fit the pistons akunar has for this engine and change cams. The 140 is a tricky engine to mod...

when it comes to racing looks aint everything...when you come to make the ridgy didge one just make sure you square up the joins perfectly and fuse with a TIG making sure to get no penetration. This pipe will flow heaps better than a stocker and will be suited to a high revving setup.

3 thou inlet 4 thou exhaust is pretty ideal IMO

Anywhere in the those ranges mentioned will be fine, just keep in mind that too much clearance never hurt anything, but just a fraction not enough and your set for trouble. 2 & 3 thou is tight, and you'd have to know you could run it. I would only reccomend running this if you are not heavy...

my best guess would be if you dyno'd both 140 and 150 engines in same bike with same decent exhaust and carby you'd see 1 horse maybe more in the yx but similar torque no. for both....