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Hmm, that's slightly embarrassing, Dirtmax have a heaps good name on here...

no, the float pins are the two pins that the caliper slides onto.... the two bolts that release the disc pads are the pad pins, or cotter pins, depending on who you ask.. if you remove the caliper from the fork legs, there are two thick pins that the caliper slides in and out on, so it has some...

Fane which model Dpro's do you have? the new ones, with CRF70 style frame and plastics, and the GPX/Fastace suspension, or the older ones based on the CRF50 midsize frame?? If you have the CRF70 style new ones, you'll probably have to spend a bit of money to improve on it... if its the older...

heh heh, that's embarrassing.... bloody fast through the whoops section, few dollars worth of suspension there methinks...

if you can stretch to it, the 140 will have a bit more poke, owing to the bigger engine, but aside from that, is more or less the same...

yeah i'm pretty sure the nitrous is CRF style... think it's the reign that is klx style, and is thus gay. :P The atomik is probably the slightly better bike...

hmm good question... the blue and white one is I *think* the actual wire that carries the spark timing to the CDI... but dont quote me on that... if the pink wire that you have it connected to, goes to the same pin on the CDI unit that appears as the blue and white wire in my wiring diagram, you...

this bike will be fine for putting around the paddock, and if your wife reallllly wants pink, it might be your only choice, but the atomik nitrous 125 would be the better quality bike, but not by far... The atomik, whilst i hate to admit it, has a better engine and wheels... aside from that...

nah there should be two other banjo bolts next to the bottom of the oil line. that line needs to stay where it is, it links the pump/filter to the head.... Dub88n pm me your phone number, i'll send you a pic of where the oil lines connect to the motor.

Dub88n this is a wiring diagram for an ORK going into a non ORK bike... You may need to make up some of your own clips and wiring, not having the final part of the loom, but this wiring layout will work. you can use some the wiring you already have from your old 140 loom... ie killswitch...

Ok, a few guys have been having problems with wiring up ORK's, particularly when converting a standard ignition engine to an ORK fitted engine.... The pic below is the wiring loom i have used to convert the miniblitz from your "standard" loom and ignition system, to a 160HO motor with ORK...

pt gawler, and i have access to a few private properties north of adelaide here and there.

yeah that's kinda WHY there are no places left in SA to ride....

mostly it's a combination of **** quality, and poor geometry that make the Reign/pitpro bigfoot so terrible... the suspension is, well, crap, and the mixture of short forks, and tight steering head angle make for a bike that feels like your riding a seesaw... I'd choose the miniblitz over the...

Best bet would be to find a set of GPX black Forks, and a Fast ace rear of some description. DHZ sell both on egay.

oh, nah, be screwed if i'd take an ORK-kitted motor back to big fatty bargeass flywheel and CDI... gayer than aids.. Nah i cheated, copied the Revmx wiring loom, and just made it up as i went along... I'm hoping a "start-from-scratch- diagram for idiots might help.

Mitch if you really want a bigfoot, and yes, they do handle rougher terrain better than 14/12's do, then consider the Miniblitz (Mikilon D8-125) from Cob and Co. They are a far better bike than either the atomik raining, or the shitpor bigfoot... 125 motor isnt the biggest weapon in the shed...

neither the atomik reign or the shitpor bigfoot are decent bikes... the Dpro is the far better bike for the money...

that shock wont be any good... spring is about 650lb too soft for a non-linkage rear end...

i beg to differ with all of you.... lol I managed to wire the ORK-fitted 160ho into the mini blitz using parts of the standard loom, which will be the same as your 140 loom, and without the use of a male ORK loom plug that goes into the CDI.. just used normal wiring connectors... I'll get...