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Yep, correct

Its the fuel tap, loosen the gold knob it allows fuel flow, tighten it up no fuel flow

From what I've read, if its still got the gear indicator switch on the end of the shift drum then ditch it and when you put the bolt in shim it up with washers to make sure it has no movement. Loctite that bolt and the shift star bolt/screw on the other end. Make sure once the cases are back...

If it were me, I'd get new. I have welded up worn shift forks on old honda 50s before and they eventually failed again with about a 1/5 of the power of your motor. Then i would check and eliminate as much slop in the new shift drum before i buttoned it up again. I would think they are heat...

I dont have a 160 but i remember there were mods a few years back guys were doing to the 155 to reduce the slop in the gearbox. Edit: heres a few things to tryclick me

Wear on the shift forks?

Take it all off. The kickstart gear, the gearbox gear, the shift star, pull the gear lever shaft up through the cases, oil pump and drive gear

That is insane! What a killer bike, an absolute masterpiece of engineering. Anyone would be proud to call it theirs, top effort

Yep z50/xr50/crf50 engine will bolt right in. If you get a motovert rx125 (rather than the rx50) i dont even think you would need an engineer as the new engine is the same capacity as the old one. Now more importantly, we need pics of this 300cc grom!

156fmi is a common style serial number for chinese made engines independant of the actual engine manufacturer. 1 means 1 cylinder, 56 means 56mm bore. Many upright/vertical (rather than horizontal like a pitbike cylinder)chinese 125cc also start with 156fmi

Glad to hear you fixed it and its being enjoyed, top work

Its only just rubbing. Did you have a gasket on that cover? If not clean off all the old gasket with a blade and either get a new gasket or just make one out of thick gasket paper (only a few bucks from an auto store for a roll of it). That would be my guess at the problem is. If you did have a...

:b_grind:Not saying i have done this:b_grind: But you can grind off the 1and2 and make a 9 after the 4 out of "kneed it" (or similar metal epoxy) using a tooth pick to get it looking right and then give the barrel a quick blast of black spray paint and it looks indistinguishable from a genuine...

Plenty of guys will say its too much work or it will be uncontrollable, dangerous, etc. I'm not going to preach to you, if murdercycles weren't dangerous, uncomfortable to ride (oh and it will be with no rear suspension) amd generally a bad idea they wouldn't be any fun at all. Haven't put a 155...

The flow of oil is how its designed, it comes up the clutch side of the barrel/head, the timing chain side is the return path. More than enough is thrown around to keep the top end lubricated. Take off the valve covers whilst its running if you want to confirm this. The top end only really needs...

You need a puller, if its kick start only it will be a 27mm reverse thread puller, if it has leccy start there are 2 different sizes so you need to work out which one you need. All can be had for less than 20 bucks off ebay and the like

Most 90cc china motors use the70cc bore with a 110cc crank(bore and stroke of 47x49.5) where a 110cc has a 52mm bore (52x49.5). Assuming the 125 has a 54mm bore (about as big as will fit between stock stud spacing) you will only get around 113cc. You need 54x54 to get 124cc.

Good to hear

Depends on the 125. Some run the smaller stud spacing like the 50/70/90/110 whilst the others run the larger stud spacing. So if the studs for the cylinder/head are spaced the same it should all swap into the 90cc cases. May just need to clearance the cases if theres anything like case webbing...

There is sometimes cables coming out if a round rubber an inch or two above the sprocket. They are for gear indication, (N1234). Not required to make it run