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I've had 2 strokes before just never tuned them. I keep thinking its premix but its got an auto lube system, will need to check and adjust that as i'm positive its using too much oil and yes very smokey, lot of spooge too though I still havn't been able to really hold it tapped to clear the...

Front end done, rear end done, drivetrain done, fluids done. Wiring still a mess but thats the next job Started it up in the meantime and holy crap it runs just fine! I suspect my super lightweight fuel tank. Which didn't take into account the vacuum line so it was sucking extra air. Runs great...

Interesting, all bikes here use D8EA so I went looking for differences between D8EA and DR8EA. Seems to be a huge question mark as to real world different, the R has a resistor on it, something about electrical interference on analog TV and radio? Since D8EA is so much more common you shouldn't...

won't be for a little while. I'm tackling this with a friend as a full overhaul project so we have other things to attend to before reassembling

nice work, that one matches up. Guess its a 170 main. Thank you, that manual is also a lot better than the one I got which was from a Yamaha website (The DT175E) - which doesn't explain much at all Will check the autolube system. I have a feeling its too rich and that will effectively lean out...

The only thing on the head stem is the VIN, along with the compliance plate First 8 digits are JYA1EJT0 (last digit looks like an 'O' on the compliance plate, but looks much more like a '0' on the head stem etching)

P.S. airbox does has small holes drilled in it but they were covered with tape (so essentially stock still). As noted I believe the bike has been derestricted to some extent. I've cleaned the air filter which is still in reasonable condition, good enough to re-use also checked for splits or...

Actually it doesn't quite match up. Needle is NOT 4J6 it's actually 4L6 (yes I double checked its definitely oriented as an L not a J) and the carby is stamped 18L00 on the right side (small square block), as is the cylinder head near where the carby meets. Here's a pic, main looks a bit...

Bought a 1993 DT175 for $500, it runs and it rides (rough) so I figure not a bad deal. Most of the important bits are there and working its just that everything needs some TLC. I plan on doing a full strip (minus bottom end if I can help it) and rebuilding it right At the moment i'm tackling...

Grab the chain at the middle of the rear sprocket and pull it back, if you can expose the sprocket teeth enough to see light through them, the chain is worn too much and needs to be replaced Then if you want to prolong your chain life and set the slack 'correctly', put the bike on some form...

If you do replace it, don't throw the old one in the bin until after you've fit it. You may need to use the plug I ordered one which I thought would fit but the plug was wrong, doesn't matter just cut and solder. Colours will be the same just match them up.

Its an Apollo Orion AGB30. The bike itself doesn't really matter, the engines should be the same including wiring. Meaning that if your rectifier and stator are in good nick you should be seeing about 13.5v or more at idle. Don't be alarmed if its not, but raise the revs and see if it does spike...

I reckon all chinese bikes are fine if you put a bit of effort in. The amount required will vary between brands If it arrives, you assemble and immediately ride it. You are throwing caution to the wind and it probably will be a piece of crap. On the other hand if you splash out on some...

i'd say both are hell overkill. I got a 4Ah battery and its perfectly fine on a Zongshen 250cc engine 12V YTX4L BS HP GEL Battery FOR Suzuki 250 XC W 1990 1992 350 450SMR 1990 1996 | eBay Will give you plenty of cranking time. That said, if you can fit a bigger battery go for it. I was...

You say it starts if you bridge the solenoid terminals. Why not just wire the switch there then? May not be the most accurate wiring, but if it ultimately works and behaves like it should then surely thats fine? Wouldn't do it on another bike but these things aren't exactly expensive and well...

250cc Loncin 3rd gen water cooled (vertical) Valves tend to tighten rather than loosen over time, particularly the intake valve. If you were to run close to spec i'd be inclined to go a bit looser, so if it is indeed 0.002 minimum i'd be more inclined to go around 0.004/5 on the intake...

0.003/0.004 gets plastered everywhere on this site and I don't like it. Valves are somewhat important, and it irks me when this is repeated across the board without any research into the matter. Granted, it's hard to find exact clearances for individual chinese engines but still... I know on...

You need a new 'kick start spring'. The kick start gear is on a spiral shaft, the spring puts tension on it. So when you push the lever down it travels up the spiraled shaft and turns at the same time. The spring will be broken so there is no tension on the gear, it'll just spin without moving...

I believe the only thing that's pushing the rear end up is the spring, and everything else is to do with dampening. I.e. the shock will slow down the rate of compression and rebound, but it in itself is not going to exert any force in a neutral state So it could be a worn out spring (unlikely)...

with that said, I don't think his method of "do it up til it just touches" is quite correct. If you do that then you'll be able to get 2 or 3 sizes bigger in there and the valves will be off. In an ideal world you want to be able to get the correct feeler gauge in with a good bit of resistance...