ducartech 125cc build up

[mr_plow]

hi everyone im new to the site,
ive had my ducartech pit bike for about 2 years now, its hasn't had that much use. its completley stock apart from a unifilter
i did build a track with a few jumps, but i found that it didn't handle great, really lacked power, 1st gear was way too short, jumping it it feels abit heavy not so flickable and the rear shock squeaks when landing.

i built a few bigger jumps and it just didnt have that power to lauch it up the ramp, it pretty much slowed down up the ramp and flicked you forward.

I was keen to just go an buy a DHZ DPRO 160, but my missus said she will kill me if i do!

so my plan is to trick this one up on the down low.

Im not sure what engine to get, the one i have in the bike is a ducar 125cc and it is a piece of junk, too slow and the 19mm carbie is stuffed, fuel runs straight through it.

i pretty much want the most power and least weight i can get for around the $300-400 mark for the engine

possibly something like the GPX 125cc of the ZONGSHEN 140cc Engines.

plus:
26mm carbie
IRK kit
unifilter
pro taper bars
new plastics
rear shock
new oil in front shock

im pretty happy with the frame, might do some reinforcing welds on it

so please advise me on what i should do with this bike to make it actually fast, fun and handle well!

thanks!!

 

[sean01]

zonger 140 would be best for your budget. and run really good out of the box.

ditch the IRK idea they are nothing but trouble.

26mm oko carb from dhz is the best one yet, unless you get a keihin pe26mm carb...

for jumping your going to need comp level suspension, gpx forks and a well priced dnm or fast ace shock.

one thing i didnt see in your list nor do i know if your bike has one already is a heavy duty peg mount...

also shoot some pics up of your bike mate, it will help pin point any other issues you may have..

 

[mr_plow]

thanks mate i will get some pics this arvo and put them up.
i used to ride a yz250f would love that power to weight ratio on this haha.

dunno if im going to be wasting my time with a 140 though, i would really like one of the chpmoto 175cc cant really find a price for them.

 

[sean01]

any of the aus advertised 175's are pretty much the same... dhz have the pitster pro versions. then theres the revmx and ciniworx versions..

i doubt you'll find one under 650 tho and IMO they aren't worth the money.. besides you said the budget is 400 on an engine, then theres suspension and extra mods. you'll easy see 1+grand go through your hands building what you want so it would be cheaper easier to buy what you initially wanted..

 

[mr_plow]

ok so you think that the 140 with the oko should have enough poke?

here are the pics of the bike:

so where should i start?
also does anyone know what kind of plastic's kit this is so i can order new ones from ebay?

 

[mr_plow]

also it was ok jumping at the beginning, but now if floods after the first jump. will the oko not flood over jumps?

 

[sean01]

plastic kit is an apollo klx design. not really popular but not impossible to find PLASTIC KIT For KLX KLX110 PITPRO ATOMIK Model PIT BIKE | eBay

another option is to buy what ever klx plastics you like and use your original side guards (if there good enough)

couple of problems you may face with upgrading the engine in that bike to a start in any gear engine is

1. the clutch arm on 140+ engines and some 125 engines will hit the top engine mount. a little bending of the the arm may fix the issue.

2. the inlet manifold will need to be a straight back design and the one on the 125 will be too small to use.

3. exhaust size (diameter) could hold back a bit of power, it will still work but will need cutting and welding if you go the z160ho/z155/z175 engine..

as for forks, just measure the length you have currently (axle to top of fork) and get good quality ones.. gpx 730mm i think is correct..
do the same for the rear shock too.. bolt hole to bolt hole while uncompressed.

 

[Sneezy]

i like the apollo klx plastics, a lot better than he usual boring common ones, looks good mate

 

[mr_plow]

so there are no exhaust kits that fit with my frame?
is there any oko kits that face straight back? you dont think the rotated kit will fit if i cut the tab with the circle off the frame?
would really like a rotated kit as the uni filter at the moment is pressed against the exhaust pipe (

 

[crazzy #1]

Where are you located?

 

[mr_plow]

longwood victoria

 

[sean01]

so there are no exhaust kits that fit with my frame?
is there any oko kits that face straight back? you dont think the rotated kit will fit if i cut the tab with the circle off the frame?
would really like a rotated kit as the uni filter at the moment is pressed against the exhaust pipe (

theres nothing in the way of exhausts except standard or custom.. sure you can change the muffler tho..

as for the rotating kit, i think the carb would hit the tank. oko carbs are pretty tall..
maybe a proper BBR manifold would do. or a slotted manifold.

 

[mr_plow]

well thats pretty sucky. what if i were to change the frame? there is a few on ebay. also i have stripped everything off the bike except the wheels, rear swingarm, front forks and handlebars and it is still pretty damn heavy..


Chromoly steel Frame Kit 125cc PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike | eBay

and

Chromoly steel Frame Kit 125cc PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike | eBay

 

[mr_plow]

sorry ment this one

Dirt pit bike 50cc 70cc xr crf frame | eBay

 

[mr_plow]

are the ones to suit me crf style frames?

this one seems pretty good, only 7kg titanium $160

KDF GTXP TITANIUM HONDA CRF 50CC CRF50 FRAME PITBIKE GT | eBay

 

[sean01]

your getting further and further away from your initial build... new bike will be way cheaper and better.. well no matter what parts you decide a new bike would be better on the pocket and not to mention that then you can mod a decent up to date bike..

the first lot of frames you linked were crf50 style which frame wise would be smaller than what you have now.
second frame is junk is the way of building a bike for jumping..

if your set on building what you have then id do the following..

zonger 140, oko26mm carb kit, gpx or dnm hornet forks in 730mm length, dnm x4r rear shock (if length is correct). so that will be around $1150 not including the extra coin needed for misc bits needed to match everything up.. it all adds up. i recon you'd be close to $1500 or more (tyres, plastics, chain, sprockets, bars blah blah blah)

little more and you can have this DHZ OUTLAW 160R, LKI Sticker Kit, 2011 New Model - DHZ and it will run rings around what your building..

or little less and you could have this DHZ DPRO 140, NEW RELEASED - DHZ which MAY only require the carby and suspension upgrades but still be miles in front of where your at now..

and lol you also gotta do all this and hide it from the missus.
trust me its easier to buy something and cop a week of ear bashing opposed to asking and asking for months..

 

[mr_plow]

haha nah i know its stupid but i will cop it if i buy a complete new bike though!
so should i ditch the new frame idea? just thought it would be a better idea as a new frame would be lighter and the oko would fit aswell as an exhaust without having to muck around cutting and welding.
i would get a alloy swingarm aswell to go with it. are you sure this one is not a klx 110 frame??

Chromoly steel Frame Kit 125cc PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike | eBay

i was keen on a DHZ DPRO 160 but theres just no compromise (building a new hose soon)

 

[mr_plow]

or atomik klx frame Chromoly Frame KLX style EK36 - Frames & Swingarm - Performance Parts

 

[mr_plow]

also if i went new frame, swingarm, suspension, oko, etc i would probably keep the ducar for abit until im well and truly over it, and keep my eye on ebay for a cheap 2nd hand 140-175.

Just add a few bits at a time, will never know haha

 

[mattbombers]

If you need new plastics I got a new red set id sell