Dyno results and what to do about them

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timeeh

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As some of you may of already seen i got the bike dynoed at a dyno day on sunday. The following is the resultsl;
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the green lines are the first run, with the air filter attached. However the tune was so far out (rich) that it didn't even register the mix. The 2nd run (2 red lines) was without the filter, still too rich but getting better. SO my question is how far lean would you guys reccomend i go down too? Currently running a 125 so i'm thinking i'll drop that to 120, and the second more concerning question is see how the power drops dramatically after 9.5k, i am thinking i need to advance the timing? Im i right with this thinking or should i be looking at something else?
 
a 120 main sounds like a good place to start.

advancing the timing say 5 degrees, will make the power drop off sooner, so you will notice it drop off lower in the rpms, around 8500 rpm ?
it is also infuenced by the grind of the camshaft.


what coil are you using ?
and what spark plug lead ?
and i guess you have an Irridium plug ?
 
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Looks more like its rich on the needle. Main isn't far off. It's a bit hard to jet just off a full throttle run you really need to use the load control and work on each section.
 
so have you had a timing light on the engine yet ?
 
Looks more like its rich on the needle. Main isn't far off. It's a bit hard to jet just off a full throttle run you really need to use the load control and work on each section.

Thats without an air filter though, Shearer sent me a youtube link this morning RE BBR showing why the flat TB POD in not much chop (which is what i had on there) so i'll be putting the unifilter back on once it arrives which should improve it a bit (based on the vid) Hmmm maybe i should just take it back to him and just pay for it to be done properly.... But the missus might kill me for spending more money on a bike.
 
i marked up the degrees on my outer rotor set up myself, the one on my Atomik Fuse.
it will give you a pretty good idea...
i guess the more accurately you mark it the closer it will be to spot on.
then to adjust it, it makes it easy too, if you want to change it 5 degrees or so, just move the stator backing plate to suit.
 
i marked up the degrees on my outer rotor set up myself, the one on my Atomik Fuse.
it will give you a pretty good idea...
i guess the more accurately you mark it the closer it will be to spot on.
then to adjust it, it makes it easy too, if you want to change it 5 degrees or so, just move the stator backing plate to suit.

got pics?.....
 
i would sort out my air fuel ratio before going any further, then timing and whatnot also if you want to get technical degree the cam to ensure that that is correct...

its pretty irratic at higher rpm.. so it may not just be lean jets... have you done heaps of hours on this rebuild maybe a slightly leaking intake valve is a fault?
 
have you done heaps of hours on this rebuild maybe a slightly leaking intake valve is a fault?

Only 4 race meets and a couple of hours in the bush, so not alot of hours. I'm starting to think maybe needs a better CDI or Coil (as Craig mentioned above) As for degreeing the cam, f that :) Just had a read on what needs to be done there and it's something i'd never bother with + i do not have an adjustble cam gear (don't think anyones made one for these engines yet)
 
Did you lap the valves in? or just assemble the engine?
oh wait when you got the tb head it would have already been assembled..
cutting slots in the cam gear is the way to go i dont know i cant talk i have not spent enough time on a dyno to get good at reading the readouts..
if only i had one.. a mill.. a flow bench i would be a very busy dude
 
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