Help me identify my new purchase? (DHZ 140cc with alloy frame)

[Marko R1]

Hi guys,

I am new to pit bikes but I have had many road bikes and used to race 250cc production class. I just picked this up yesterday and as soon as I saw it, I knew I wanted it...attention to detail is very nice. Its had an easy life as the engine casings are unmarked but I can't find any info hence I am hoping ppl can shed light on the year model, name/model, price when new. Here is the link:

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hurstville/motorcycles/dirt-bike-140cc-rare-racing-bike-/1094130104

I pulled off the plastics and checked that all nuts and bolts are tight...a few q's I had as follows:
- what engine oil viscosity should I use and is full synthetic best?
- I've heard it's good to lock tite all nuts and bolts, is this true?
- what other maintenance should I carry out on the bike?

Thanks in advance

 

[liljohn_92]

i cant tell you what brand etc it is but i will say its a nice looking bike. are there any markings on the frame anywhere? also engine number should be near the gearshifter shaft on the case.

as for what oil to use, most people use castrol mineral oil 15w40. Castrol Activ 4T Motorcycle Oil - 15W-50, 4 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia

its a good habit to use loctite with all the vibration that the bikes deal with, use the blue/purple loctite not the red though as you might strip boltheads if you use the red.

maintenance is pretty simple, just check all bolts every couple rides, lube the chain every ride and change the oil regularly and you should be good to go.

 

[Marko R1]

Thanks for your response.
There is a chassis number which is a metal plate and sits on the front of the head stem, running in a vertical format.

I was told it was a factory DHZ race bike and it has DHZ markings on the engine case and the rear chain guide which sits near the back wheel where it mounts to the underside of the swing arm.

 

[my67xr]

Welcome to Minirder's.

First up get the formality's out of the way and drop in here to Introduce Yourself.


I cant see the frame too well, but it kinda looks's like a Motovert Pro frame?
How close is it to the front one here ?

 

[Cordogs]

Looks like a Pitbike empire bike but it would have tattooed all over the bike?

It's definitely nice n clean, nice parts. $1000 seems pretty steep though. I always wonder about people who claim to know how much something is worth but never have any info to back it up!

But hey as the old saying goes, " it's only worth what people are willing to spend" and if you're happy with it then that's all that matters!


Here's a link to "what to do before you ride" thread. "This Link"

Also the age old "What oil to buy" saga still continues to this day. There's plenty of threads on here about it, have a read through.

 

[Cordogs]

Welcome to Minirder's.

First up get the formality's out of the way and drop in here to Introduce Yourself.


I cant see the frame too well, but it kinda looks's like a Motovert Pro frame?
How close is it to the front one here ?

I reckon your onto a winner there! :thumbup:

 

[Marko R1]

Welcome to Minirder's.

First up get the formality's out of the way and drop in here to Introduce Yourself.


I cant see the frame too well, but it kinda looks's like a Motovert Pro frame?
How close is it to the front one here ?

That is exactly the same frame...so it's a motovert frame, are they good?

 

[Marko R1]

Looks like a Pitbike empire bike but it would have tattooed all over the bike?

It's definitely nice n clean, nice parts. $1000 seems pretty steep though. I always wonder about people who claim to know how much something is worth but never have any info to back it up!

But hey as the old saying goes, " it's only worth what people are willing to spend" and if you're happy with it then that's all that matters!


Here's a link to "what to do before you ride" thread. "This Link"

Also the age old "What oil to buy" saga still continues to this day. There's plenty of threads on here about it, have a read through.

I actually negotiated the price - I'm in sales
I bought an assassin 110cc semi auto last week new for 900 so that I could double my kids...now I've got the bug - I'm almost 40 and I'll never grow up

Oh and thanks for sharing the link! Very helpful

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Is it a older motovert pro frame? Looks very nice! Avoid oil with friction modifiers as they cause clutch slippage. Vakve clearances should be checked, .003 inlet and .004 exhaust are the correct clearances. If your not sure on what to do, there are a few instructional vids on youtube. Check chain condition, when they let the chains go it is quite commn for the chain to take out the stator pickup. If its worn replace with a d.i.d nz3 chain, should last ou a long time with proper chain maintenance.
Very nice bike anyway mate, enjoy!

 

[Marko R1]

Is it a older motovert pro frame? Looks very nice! Avoid oil with friction modifiers as they cause clutch slippage. Vakve clearances should be checked, .003 inlet and .004 exhaust are the correct clearances. If your not sure on what to do, there are a few instructional vids on youtube. Check chain condition, when they let the chains go it is quite commn for the chain to take out the stator pickup. If its worn replace with a d.i.d nz3 chain, should last ou a long time with proper chain maintenance.
Very nice bike anyway mate, enjoy!

Thanks
I went to DHZ in Sydney and they gave me Torco 10/40 non friction modified formula, mineral. I'm surprised it only takes 1ltr

 

[my67xr]

Yeah the Motovert frame's are one of the better one's, there is sometime's Motovert machined into it.
And or a plate on the front of the steering tube with a chassis number and build date etc.

With your new 110 bike, replace the chain straight away with a decent brand chain like the DID H/Duty they cost around $30-$35.
The original chain will stretch quickly and just a tooth usually taking out the stator pickup when it happen's like Stu mentioned ^.

With the 140, when it's running then can develop a knocking noise in the bottom end, it's usually a worn clutch hub, a new clutch kit will sort it (about $70-$90)
Get a couple of Magnetic sump plug's for them too, to catch any steel chip's off the gearbox/clutch gear's too.

Magnetic Engine Drain Plug, Fits All Engines ? Buy Online Australia at DHZ

 

[Marko R1]

It has the chassis number stuck in the front stem tube, you are right

I am selling the 110cc so won't need to touch it.

I'll definitely get the magnetic sump plug for assurance...btw, u guys rock on this forum, super helpful which I really appreciate

 

[Marko R1]

I want to post some close up pics but the page won't allow me to...do I need to get above 10 posts?

 

[my67xr]

Nah, have a look at this thread it explain's how to do it.
http://www.miniriders.com/general-c...ers-old-new-few-helpful-tips-hints-ideas.html

 

[Marko R1]

Nah, have a look at this thread it explain's how to do it.
http://www.miniriders.com/general-c...ers-old-new-few-helpful-tips-hints-ideas.html

thanks craig - champion

 

[Marko R1]

here are some pics without the plastics as i pulled it down to ensure everything was tight, it has no hidden damage which is great!

soooo, my bike is a motovert pro with a DHZ engine...is this how it rolled off the showroom or is it a custom build?

take note that the rear chain guide is also engraved with DHZ motorsports

 

[my67xr]

It might have been fixed up at some stage using part's off a DHZ bike?

Look's nice stripped down.
Btw the chain is too tight

 

[Marko R1]

I've got about 20mm play on the chain...should it be 40mm?

 

[my67xr]

You need to check it with your full weight on it.
But try to line up the centre of the front sprocket, the swingarm from pivot bol,t and the rear axle, that is where you need to have the 20mm minimum movement
Sometime's it is easier to remove the bottom shock mounting bolt and move the shock out of the way to line it all up, then adjust it, and refit the shock bolt and tighten it.

 

[Marko R1]

Quick update, I sold this bike and now have a Braaap