New Bike Setup/Maintenance

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stink

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HI Guys,

My young fellas Atomik MotoX 70 arrived yesterday so tonight i will be hopefully putting it together etc.

Just want to confirm the points that i have picked up so far in regards to new bikes.
1. Locktight all nuts etc with oil resistant locktight
2. Change the Air Filter
3. Run the bike in for a few hours with the original oil, then change with good qualilty oil.

Thats what i got so far as the main points, is there anything else that i should be aware of safety wise or maintenance? Anything in general or particular to this bike?

I know theres a whole lot of differing opinions on bike quality etc can we leave that out of it please as i have got the bike now so i just want to get the best out of it.

regards Stink
 
hay mate. just a few changes to what you have allready got. dont locktight ALL the nuts. only the ones that require it. personally i locktight the shock nuts, engine mount nuts, axle nuts, swingarm nuts, Frame nuts etc etc.. realistically all the pivot joints and points that are under stress is what i would look at putting locktight on.

yeah change the air filter, will help it breathe a little better and cleaner, look into the uni filter 45 degree cut foam filter. when you oil it up you must let it sit for at least 12 hours for the oil to "set" so your not sucking that crap into your motor. if you dont know how to oil it just make sure its clean with some petrol or mineral terpentine. squeese any excess cleaning solution that you used out and then pour some oil into your hands and massage into the filter. dont use too much oil, just enough to get a LIGHT coat on the filter. when done place somewhere safe and dry for your 12 hours minimum period.

run the bike in on stock oil, then after 2 tanks of fuel heat the motor up for 10 mins, then turn off and change oil, this will warm it all up and make it so you get the most oil out of your motor. then fill with SYNTHETIC oil as apposed to mineral oil (mineral is used for the run in period)

after that just double check all your spokes and tighten if required, re-check all the nuts and bolts etc etc... and you will be good to go. i hope this has helped you mate and good luck with the build.

Cheers, Tony.
 
Bones said:
hay mate. just a few changes to what you have allready got. dont locktight ALL the nuts. only the ones that require it. personally i locktight the shock nuts, engine mount nuts, axle nuts, swingarm nuts, Frame nuts etc etc.. realistically all the pivot joints and points that are under stress is what i would look at putting locktight on.

yeah change the air filter, will help it breathe a little better and cleaner, look into the uni filter 45 degree cut foam filter. when you oil it up you must let it sit for at least 12 hours for the oil to "set" so your not sucking that crap into your motor. if you dont know how to oil it just make sure its clean with some petrol or mineral terpentine. squeese any excess cleaning solution that you used out and then pour some oil into your hands and massage into the filter. dont use too much oil, just enough to get a LIGHT coat on the filter. when done place somewhere safe and dry for your 12 hours minimum period.

run the bike in on stock oil, then after 2 tanks of fuel heat the motor up for 10 mins, then turn off and change oil, this will warm it all up and make it so you get the most oil out of your motor. then fill with SYNTHETIC oil as apposed to mineral oil (mineral is used for the run in period)

after that just double check all your spokes and tighten if required, re-check all the nuts and bolts etc etc... and you will be good to go. i hope this has helped you mate and good luck with the build.

Cheers, Tony.
Click to expand...

HI Tony,

Mate thanks so much for the advice i really appreciate it. Do i need to oil up the stock air filter or not?

I was going to ask about the locktight but you covered that so thanks again.

I will do as you advise and hopefully all will be good.

Had a quick look at the bike this morning as its still in bits in the box, will the chain get tighter as part of the build procedure? as it seems quite loose at the moment, like probably 2inch of play in it.

Cheers Stink
 
lol stupid question but what happens if you dont oil a unifilter
 
well the oil is there to hold the dust and keep shit out of your carby and more importantly your head and cylinder. the stock air filter should allready be oiled but if your unsure clean it and oil her up lightly anyway. i do enphasise the light part because i made the mistake of using too much oil then couldnt figure out why my engine wasnt getting enough air :S.

if anything the chain should get looser as you ride it, the shock and swingarm's length changes thus putting strain onto the chain. maybe you need to adjust your rear wheel back, there are bolts which drive into the swingarm with a locking nut on them, loosen the nut and drive the bolt back till you have approperiate slack. (i believe the general standard is being able to lift the chain from the top of the swingarm 2cms) please wait for confirmation before doing this as im only going on something i heard a long time ago.

i would advise as Trashthumpy said about getting a new chain, RK or DID chains are the way to go, much stronger than your stock chain and they are also pre-stretched so you wont have to worry about adjusting your chain tensioner / wheel all the time.

hope all this helps but as i said, just wait for confirmation from one of the other members about chain slack.

Cheers, Tony.
 
Bones said:
run the bike in on stock oil, then after 2 tanks of fuel heat the motor up for 10 mins, then turn off and change oil, this will warm it all up and make it so you get the most oil out of your motor. then fill with SYNTHETIC oil as apposed to mineral oil (mineral is used for the run in period)
Click to expand...

So it is safe to "run in" your bike with the chinese oil that comes stock in it?? I just bought a DHZ 140cc and im getting it tomorrow so im just curious.
 
Yea
Don't use SYNTHETIC oil,These engine's {clutch's} are based on old school design,will slip!!!.Clutch not suitable for anything other than MINERAL oil's ........Just use top quality MINERAL oil

STICK
 
Cool, thanks heaps for your input guys.

I will let ya know how i go, hope you dont mind questions?

Regards Stink
 
STICK said:
Yea
Don't use SYNTHETIC oil,These engine's {clutch's} are based on old school design,will slip!!!.Clutch not suitable for anything other than MINERAL oil's ........Just use top quality MINERAL oil

STICK
Click to expand...

BS synth oils dont guarentee clutch slip

clutch design hasnt changed for years ,its still exactly the same in the latest litre sports bikes

synthetic oils are for the max protection , stay away from car oils that have friction modifiers

run in using a mineral oil such as motul 1000 after a few tanks of fuel then change to a semi syth if you wish such as motul 5100
 
Good Morning miniriders,
Well i got the bike 95% together last night. If you dont mind i would like to ask a few more questions. The manual if that what you call it is pretty light on so doesnt explain shit real well at all.
1. The rear shock i want to lower it as much as possible, at the moment its got over an inch of available thread. Its reall bloody hard to move which i assume is as designed but is there an easy way to adjust this or do i just get some big multi's and keep turning?
2. the manual mentions something about checking throttle play, now is that the amount the throttle move loosly before it gets tight? Its got about 1/2 cm of play before it gets firm?
3. Has a semi auto gear box so i should be able to just get my youngster to put around in first right? Do you just change gears mid rev on these things?

Thats it i think, will update tonight after i get home and finish her off.

Thanks in advance Stink
 
2 yes the freeplay is a little tight , maybe worth a little more

3 when you change gears you close the throttle , change gear and accelerate again
 
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