New engine Lifan or Piranha 150cc for street?

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quickbird144

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Have a x19 110cc that I'm looking to replace the engine on. Practically brand new but the engine has some issues and not sure what the manufacturer is going to do. Was looking around and came across the Lifan and Piranha engines. Would like to put in a 150cc. The bike is fully wired with fuel delivery so basically looking for something I can drop in. What would have a better transmission for the street? I plan on getting the bike registered and just cruising around town but don't want real short gears if I can get away with it. Any suggestions? Also currently have a PZ19 carb. See the 140cc Piranha complete with carb for a decent price as well.
 
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I dont believe you can register an x19. Only pitbikes with compliance plates i know of are the motovert rx and braaap street superlight. Either way i do not support illegal street riding. Any larger bore engine will feel super fast on such a small bike. Just as long as the output shaft splines are the same as your sprocket. If you want more speed and/or longer gears you need a larger front sprocket and smaller rear.

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I just realised youre from America. Im not sure what registration laws are over there

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Either engine you mentioned will work in it, both will have a way better top end, and neither of those have a close ratio gearbox.
I'd go for the Piranha 150, the lifan case's aren't too good, most of the used Lifan 150's i've seen have a cracked case around the gearbox input shaft bearing.

If you plan to do a lot of mile's with this bike get a nice oil cooler and line's for it.
You will need a bigger carby and a bigger bore exhaust for it too, the 32mm i/d pipe will be good for this engine and use a 26mm carby, Oko 26 flatslide for all out power or a Mikuni china copy 22/26mm for good all round use
 
Thanks for the replies guys. As far as it being legal it most certainly is. It came with a title and has a VIN and all that jive. Just needs some lights, horn, turn signals and be over 50cc and you're good to go. My x19 came EPA and DOT approved with everything. You wouldn't believe some of the things on the roads over here.

That makes me happy about them not having a close ratio box and the lifan is about $100 more than the Piranha, don't understand that. This will be a suburban street cruiser basically so it will see some decent miles. I was also looking into the pitster pro 155. It comes absolutely complete with everything you mentioned. Oil cooler, cdi which I already have. Throttle and choke cables, carb, etc. But I see it listed as a close ratio, bummer.
 
There is another 160cc you can get, the YX160 that has a wide ratio box too
Piranha 16 Engine fits Pit Bikes and Other Minis - WHS-2118 - Piranha Engines - Engines - TBolt USA, LLC
I'm not 100% sure what stator's come with the engine's though, they may not have lighting coil's, but you could alway swap one onto it.

Then again if you want to go all out there is the 190cc ?
The engine is about 15mm longer than the 160's, and has around 20hp at the engine too!
I think you'll have trouble keeping the front end down on that little bike with a 160, the 190 would be a death wish
Daytona Anima 19cc FLX Engine - WHS-917 - Works Engines - Engines - TBolt USA, LLC
 
Yeah I think the 190cc would definitely be asking for it. The X19 I have is actually a newer, much bigger style over the older ones. The bike itself weighs almost 200lb. It's pretty stout. 12" wheels, 31" seat height. I see another pitster pro 160cc totally complete oil cooer and all on Amazon for $619 and $50 shipping. As long as the gear ratios aren't extremely short for what I want to do I think I'll be a happy camper.
 
Another concern I have is lights and electrical. The bike has a battery and alternator on it. As far as a engine goes what do I need to look for to make sure I retain all the electrical on it? I see the listings says auxiliary output, is that what I need to be looking for?
 
Yeah i think so.
Look at the wire's coming off the stator, for light's you'll need a yellow wire and a white wire, sometime's yellow and yellow, they come off the lighting/charge coil
Some engine's only have 1 wire for the lighting coil they can be adapted too.

If there isn't those extra wire's then you could just fit one of these in place of the original
Outer Rotor Stator & Flywheel for Kickstart Pit BIke Engines like YX 14/15/16 - WHS-137 - Electrical - Pit Bike Engine Parts - TBolt USA, LLC
 
Awesome. I appreciate all the help! I think I'm gonna look for a crate 160cc, something that'll come with everything and if not then I'll look at the 150cc kits. One last question if you don't mind, my 110 was wired up to tell you what gear you're in via the dash. I see some wires on the driver side cover, I'm assuming the ones for the gear indicator are the ones I circled? 102_2523.JPG
 
You could swap that one in your pic over to the new engine, but you'll need to check the gear configuration's are the same
eg; 1N234, N1234
You may be able to swap the wire's around to get it working right?

The new engine will have a switch with 1 wire (green w/red stripe) coming off the end of the shift drum above the sprocket area, that's just a neutral indicator, or it'll have a rubber block off.
Either way your's will swap in, you need to use the brass contact's etc too, and loctite the bolt thread's before you fit it so it can't come loose.
 
I see exactly what you mean. The configuration on the 110cc was 1N234 so that may not work. But the indicator for N should be good enough I think. Every engine I see has the N1234 pattern which I'd prefer. This 110cc was 1 up and 3 down, made for weird shifting especially with me being a bigger guy with a sz 14 shoe. Although thinking about it I think that's cause of the shifter placement which goes towards the back of the bike. The engines I'm looking at have the shifter forward, so any engine I put on will have to have the shifter go towards the back which will be the same shifting pattern. Hmm.
 
Yep, it'll be 4321N
If it has this style contact's on the switch your's will work, and you just need the 1st and neutral wire's to be swapped around.

$_57.JPG


In the plug on the other end from the switch, if you look close you'll see a slot above the cutout in the plastic, there is a retainer tab on the terminal that hold's the terminal into the plug/socket.
Use a tiny flat headed jeweller's screwdriver or a strong pin to push that tab down, and the terminal and wire will come out the back of the plug/socket (once it's out, bend the tab back up so it's sticking out again before refitting) and you can swap it with the other terminal/wire to correct the indicator

If it's the same as the one i had the wiring is as follow's

the pink wire is for 1st gear,
the green w/red stripe is for neutral,
the blue w/red stripe is for 2nd,
the green w/black stripe is for 3rd,
and the light blue w/red stripe is for 4th




 
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