Oil Help on 70CC

[Spoolin]

Hey guys,

I have recently purchased one of these:

Atomik Motorsports

My question is, what oil should i be using to run it in? I bought and used what the bike shop gave me today (Fuches Synthetic 10/40W) for about half hour.

After searching the many threads on here it seems i should not be using Synthetic? What confuses me is on the Atomik website it does not state which oil to use on the 50cc and 70cc Semi Auto models as it does on the bigger manual bikes. Should i assume it does not matter?

We will be going for a decent ride tomorrow, i was thinking of draining the synth tonight and putting some 10/40W mineral car oil as many suggest for the ride then dump it and go back to synth?

Or should i not bother and just leave the Synth in there

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[Custom]

Dont use car oil, it isnt designed for wet clutches in bikes, i use silkolene 10/40 synthetic in my bike with no worrys

 

[Spoolin]

I should mention today was the first time the engine has been run.

 

[cass38a]

You want to run your bike in with mineral oil and you should really use a oil disigned for a bike (cheap car oil is ok but the better stuff with friction modifirers in it is no good). Once you have run the bike in you can use a synthetic oil.

You dont want to mess around running your bike in as how you treat it the first tank of fuel has a lot to do with how it will run for the rest of its life.

 

[numroe]

Just use Shell Rimula-X in your 70cc ducar engine always. For run in and forever. It's diesel oil. $60 for 10L.

My daughter has an Atomik 70cc too. She rides in 2nd or 3rd all day ridin the clutch a bit more than normal. Clutch wear using Rimula-X did not appear to be too bad according to used oil appearance after 7 hrs usage.

I use it in my KX450F, and every engine I own. Cars, bike, mower, etc. I hammer my LPG Falcon doing interstate towing etc, any my engine runs as smooth a silk after 120000km. It purrs along. First 60K on Shell Ultra synth and last 60K on Rimula-X. 10K per oil drain.

Actually in my 450 I also use some Shell VSX synth (25%) only for cold start protection in case bike not used for 10+ days.

btw: In my 450 I've tried:
Motul 7100 10w40 = breaks down early and poor clutch feel.
Silkolene synth: Poor shift action (in my bike).
100% Shell VSX synth = not too bad.
Rimula-X. BEST shifting and clutch feel! After 6 hrs of normal work (which is not easy in a 450) this oil comes out looking pretty good.

Beware: Oil companies want lots of your money, and they don't want to give any customers any of their money. Shop retailers generally know what they are told, and each have their own agenda. Beware of any retailer who cannot say "I don't know".

I even dropped some motul 7100 back in my KX450F recently to see if I was dreaming and maybe my gears and clutch had improved with age. No way. I got it out of there after one 60 minute ride. Crapolla. I know a race team could cope with short oil life because they just change it per race, but how they'd cope or put up with shifting problems beats me. No doubt diff oils work in diff gear boxes. But hey this stuff is $70 for 4L!

Diesel oils don't have friction modifiers to contaminate wet clutches. Diesel oils (the better ones) have extremely high quality base oils - because only in the diesel industry do oil companies have to worry about a huge engine/truck/machine company suing the oil company for creating crap oil. eg. If caterpillar are $ liable for a ship engine being down then Cat get sued for sure. If Cat find that the engine oil was at fault, then Shell get sued for sure. Outcome is Shell make a diesel good oil! Also diesel oils are cheaper because of the mega high volumes made and sold. Money talks in big industry. Bike and car owners are a "who cares" for oil companies.

PS. How well you maintain a foam air filter will have much more effect on the long term health of your 70cc Ducar engine, then what you do with the throttle while you run it in. ie. replace the paper filter ASAP.

PPS. Don't worry too much about your 70cc engine (or what I wrote above). Just buy a new engine for about $250 if you kill it.

 

[Spoolin]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I ended up draining the Sikolene Synth and using some 15W/40W Mobil Mineral stuff (closest mineral to 10/40 i could find in my local shops).

Seems to work well. Gears feel fine and oil is looking very clean still. Only thing is shifting down gears is a little hard sometimes but ive read on here thats common with the semi autos?

The next oil change i will just use the rest of the Sikolene Synth then maybe try this Shell oil. I just wanted the right oil to run it in.

I also took the advice of the link posted on here about running engines in, and rode it pretty hard. Seems to go pretty well.

Regarding the filter i was just going to put a K&N filter on there, should be fine shouldnt it?

Also where do you buy the motors from, Atomik themselves? I plan on giving it hell

Cheers.

 

[numroe]

Yes down shifting (toe pull up) on the 70cc is a bitch for an adult let alone a 7 yr old girl. Our has got a little better with use (and naybe the rimula-X oil helped but I cannot say for sure since its always been in there.

Mix your synth oil in a 25/75 blend with some Rimula-X. The synth is good for clinging to metal parts when the engine is not used for a while. That'd be best use of your money.

Buy atomik parts from:
Kultparts.com.au - Home

K&N or unifilter will be far superior to the stock paper filter!