Orion 250cc mid -> Atomik Nitrous 160cc. What to expect?

[RangaBlitzFanga]

I've finally got the 250cc midsizer all fixed up and riding great. It was a hopelessly bodged mess when I got it. Anyway i'm thinking of selling it to get another bike. The 250 packs a damn nice punch but i'd prefer something a little more revvy and a bit smaller/lighter

I noticed the Atomik Nitrous 125/140/150/160's go damn cheap on ebay. I have a few questions though... Coming from the 250 (which I quite like, but its a bit snappy on the bottom for the really tight stuff) what could I expect out of the 160?
On paper it seems the 160cc puts out pretty much the same power, so i'm guessing it revs much higher and pretty much fits the bill?


edit: oh and would there be any reason to consider a 125/140/150 over the 160?

 

[timeeh]

The nitrous 160 is an awesome little bike, first thing i'd do would be an ORK upgrade as the stock one weighs about 500kg and it kicks worse than my 410.

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

how does it compare to a 250 in real world output

 

[timeeh]

Never ridden a china 250, so i couldn't give you a comparison. but based on power/weight ratio the nitrous should come out in front.

 

[zwebx]

stock it sucks..
from what i hear the 250's inlet port is 30mm and the yx 160's tb roller head is a 30mm valve inlet...
so i could imagine the yx 160 with a bigbore kit and roller head to be up there with the power and be harder to control (funner ammount of power imo)

i dont knoiw if anyone has dyno'd a chinese 250 but i know the roller heads and bigbore puts out about 20hp (there is a dyno sheet around the internet)

 

[zwebx]

Never ridden a china 250, so i couldn't give you a comparison. but based on power/weight ratio the nitrous should come out in front.

on a flat surface... but going through rough trails the 250 will glide as you would have to battle the bumps and ruts on the nitrous... however if you put a larger wheel combo on the nitrous.... say a 17 and 14 combo i think the nitrous may be ahead

 

[zwebx]

oh and would there be any reason to consider a 125/140/150 over the 160?
125's suck for a fast rider... unless its somthing like a kitkao (i think thats how it spelt) or a gpx 125 also if its a lifan 125 its going to be boring as hell and prolly end up ****ting its gearbox in the sump

the 140's have smooth power.. it depends if you get a yx 140 all your basicly buying is a lifan 140 with a lower flow head and a worse ignition system. but then again if you buy a lifan 140 all you are getting is a lifan 150 with a smaller bore size and a skinny lower lift cam

the 150's are usually the way to go imo if you do not wish to upgrade or modify them too much eg a lifan 150 (my engine) you can buy upgrade heads for them if you really wish... or just port them it makes all the difference apparently the zongshen's are good also

160 could be a yx or it could be a zongshen there are a couple out there but most are similar engine casing's similar bottom ends minus the zongshen's gearbox has shorter ratios (good) where as the yx 160 has the same as most pitbikes... long droolly gears

i could be wrong and probably bias i have not ridden every pitbike motor out so you may take this piece of information as bul**** but i have been around the scene for a while to hear about the motors so i think i could make a decent decision as to the better ones

 

[rotn50]

even on the tight stuff a 160 will eat the old lazy 250s, the higher revs and lighter bike will get it off the line quicker and will only be pulled in due to the 4 gears where the 250 has 5 and thats over a certain distance. Even on open trails the 160 will hold its own easily, the china 250s packs a lot of weight and you need to clutch it to get the wheel up. After coming off the 250 you would stick with a 150 or 160, i can highly recommend all these engines, but the 155z/160ho is my favourite due to the gear ratios, and all these engines can be upgraded to the tb parts race goodies. The lifan 140s are good and like being ridden hard from my experience hate being thrashed and clutched and destroy centre cases.

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

the 150's are usually the way to go imo if you do not wish to upgrade or modify them too much eg a lifan 150 (my engine) you can buy upgrade heads for them if you really wish... or just port them it makes all the difference apparently the zongshen's are good also

160 could be a yx or it could be a zongshen there are a couple out there but most are similar engine casing's similar bottom ends minus the zongshen's gearbox has shorter ratios (good) where as the yx 160 has the same as most pitbikes... long droolly gears

I'm a bit confused, why is the 150cc better if i'm 'not' touching the engine. I figured with less horsepower the 150 would warranty more of an upgrade than the 160?
I don't want to touch the engine, and I want it to remain CHEAP, a $750 ebay one is about right for me
According to ebay listings, all of the atomik nitrous are YX engines. I don't know how much I can trust that. The 160cc is listed as having a shorter stroke, whereas the 150's and below all have the same stroke just different bore

I just discovered the orion has 19/16" wheels not 17/14" as I first though. It'd gonna be a hell of a drop to 14/12" but I wanna be able to throw it upright into the car for a quick easy bash on it
And while its true these 250's seem damn heavy (the orion weighs in approx 100kg) they still LAUNCH

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

I'd appreciate if someone could throw any more info out
Was out riding with the 250 today on some more open steep hilly terrain, found the 250 a bit flat. Nice and torquey and tears up hills faster than I thought, but didn't seem to matter much if it was revving as the power feels very much same-same up past 3000rpm. Its still very strong off the bottom, too strong to be optimal for tight single track where it just lunges
I think the carb is probably not helping much either

Though I did notice it has proper linkage suspension on the back, wondering why it was riding surprisingly good

So would a YX150/160 feel similiar just less torque to go around? or is it a screamer. I still don't have an answer to the real world characteristics of it
And again, what is the difference between them? what would steer someone to the 150 over the 160

Cheers

 

[GooseMan]

I got the nitrous 160 midsize which I think would be more suited to you, be less of a step from the 250. I'd go a 160 over a 150 because there are plenty of tb parts available for it for the future. With both engines stock which one would have more power, I do not know but maybe someone else does, couldn't imagine it being much difference.

The 160 has plenty of torque because of the 12" wheels but does not like rocks because their half the size of the tyre! lol, my'n are anyway.

If you want better performance out of it a 28mm flatside carb will make it revv much nicer.

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

only reason i'm not getting the midsize and going smaller is cause I want to easily fit it in a car. I don't mind taking a wheel off but it sucks trying to wrestle a bike in horizontally

 

[Phil67]

What car are you intending to fit it in? I drive a FAirlane/LTD and there is no way a pit bike will fit in the back seat, the boot maybe but not in a nice way. Bugger taking a wheel off to take it anywhere.
I also have a "Mo Tow" carrier which is AWESOME, saves getting the trailer out.

Ok, difference between 150 and 160? ZERO.
Difference between a stock 150/160 and a TB parts big bore kitted and TB headed engine is WORLDS apart. The TB 172/184 engine would eat your 250 hands down, eat it i said. In fact, i was riding yesterday on my "stock" 150 and easily blew past an Atomik 250. I can also keep up on my "stocker" to a full TB bike, pending who is riding it.

Soooooooo, in summary. GEt a 160, get a trailer or carrier and be fair dinkum.

 

[GooseMan]

Just get one of them things that fit your tow bar and carries a bike from a mini up to a full size. and a trailer can even be towed behind that if you wish. ^ I think he called it a "MO Tow"^
Take a midsize for a test ride and compare that to a mini and see what you think.

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

According to the ebay site, a 160cc mini is 115cm long, car is a camry which is about 125-130cm from door to door. It has to be leaned slightly to the side which will increase its height slightly beyond the roof, if I loosen 2 nuts and angle the bars down it should fit fairly easily according to my measurements

The only thing that would throw this off, is if the wheels are NOT taken into consideration with length measurement. I think it is though as the midsize is apparently 165cm long which is probably slightly smaller than my 250cc (with 19/16" wheels) and I believe I could almost squeeze it in with both wheels off. But its 100kg and impossible to manouvre it in
If I had to remove a front wheel on a mini bike I should be able to do so with the bike halfway in the car, then simply pick up the forks and roll it back till it fits.

Horizontal carrier would almost certainly cause disaster at least with a big bike. I think the camry has a 1000kg tow capacity but i'm not sure of the downforce, i've been told approx 10% so 100kg, that has to include the carrier. I'd rather not bend my chassis

 

[timeeh]

Front wheel off and bars bent down, reckon it'll be a piece of piss to fit.

 

[GooseMan]

I tried to fit my midsize in my vy wagon (without dimantleing) but failed

 

[8r3nd0]

My nitrous which is not the mid size is just shy of 1600mm long so you have Buckley's chance of getting it across the back seat of a car without taking the front wheel off let alone without stuffing the seats, carpet and the back of the front seats.

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

1600mm really? that seems kind of long for a mini. But looking at some 125's it seems that 115cm would be too short as they are approx 130cm

This could be a problem. The entire purpose of a 160 is a smaller lighter form factor taht can fit in a car, if that's not there then there's almost no point. Could you please measure from back of the back wheel, to the tip of the forks?

BTW GooseMan I can fit the 250 in the car (sedan) so you'll DEFINATELY get yours in a station wagon with the front wheel off, shouldn't even need to remove the bars. I place it with the rear wheel facing the boot, then pick up the rear from the frame and swingarm, get the rear wheel half in, then start to lay it down on its side (to clear the rear windshield as it's only a sedan, wagon should allow you to keep it upright most of the way). The swingarm lays on the boot, I then grab the bottom of the frame, and somewhere near the head stem, and lift almost the entire weight and wiggle it in so the foot peg and brake lever clears the lip of the boot. The bikes 3/5ths in, take the front wheel off and put it aside, take the handlebars off and lay them on top of the bike. Then shove/pull/wiggle it in till the forks are in. Lay front wheel on top, close the boot and tada!
Takes about 15 minutes but wrestling 100kg can take its toll

Now if you think that sounds tiring, try this
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216473_207781379245784_5227075_n.jpg
http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/206280_207781442579111_8223735_n.jpg
http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205468_207781735912415_7354705_n.jpg
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217215_207781925912396_6363227_n.jpg
http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207008_207781879245734_1184320_n.jpg

Yes that's a DR650 and yes I did it myself :thumbup:

 

[GooseMan]

^ Dude your crazy!