SSR 125 budget bike

[criggs]

Hey guys,

I recently came across a pair of pit bikes on Craigslist while searching for a cheap, small bike to teach my little sisters on. Originally I was opposed to pit bikes, mostly because they aren't quite intended for learning on. Then, I found an ad that had two for sale at 250 for the pair. I was told that neither had run in a few years, and they needed work, but I had to go take a look. One was a black 2011 SSR 125, the other a red 2005 Roketa 125. Upon further inspection, they looked pretty beat up. The plastics were sun damaged, pegs were bent from multiple crashes, grips were rotting off the bars, the Roketa had a stripped kickstarter, and none of the SSR's brakes were operational. However, I figured that being small, simple Chinese pit bikes they would be cheap to fix and relatively simple to work on compared to my full size Japanese motocross bikes. I gave him 200 for both, and took em home that night.



Anyways, getting to the point... with the stripped kickstarter on the Roketa, I figured I'd get the SSR started before I spent any more time or money on the other stuff. I spent a whole day doing some research, pulling the carb apart, and cleaning it up the best I could. It was one of the dirtiest carbs I've ever had to dismantle. I had to pull the needle valve out of it's seat with pliers, which ended up slightly tearing the rubber tip. An entire can of carb cleaner couldn't get it clean enough. Thinking that was as clean as I could get it, I put it back on the bike, and kicked it for an hour or so to no avail. So, since I technically had two carbs, I decided to take the Keihin off the SSR, and swap with the Mikuni that was on the Roketa. Spent an hour cleaning it as well. With the Mikuni, the bike finally started after 20-30 kicks, but would only run with the choke on. Not sure if the Mikuni was even compatible with the throttle needle on the SSR, I cleaned the Keihin a second time, and tried with it again. The bike would not fire at all, except with starting fluid. At this point the sun had gone down, so I gave up for the day.

This past Saturday, while at Walmart for some unrelated stuff, I decided I would pick up some Chem-Dip cleaner, and see if a nice, long bath would help this carb. Went over to the Family's today for Easter dinner (where I store all of my bikes), took the carb off the bike and pulled all of the parts out of it, and let the carb body and both main and pilot jets soak in the Chem-Dip for an hour. After, I pulled them out of the dip, sprayed it all through with more carb cleaner, dried it all out with compressed air, and put it back together for hopefully the last time. After getting the carb back on the bike and some fresh gas in the tank, I gave it 20-30 kicks before losing patience. Shifted it up into 4th, ran across the yard, popped the clutch, and she fired just enough to barely catch it with the throttle. It ran like garbage for 30 seconds or so, before slowly clearing up and coming down to a rough idle. Spent a few minutes messing with the air screw and idle screws, and she was idling beautifully, FINALLY. A few minutes later, I tried to take it down the street, and suddenly it lost power and would no longer accelerate. Killed the bike for a bit for dinner, came back to it after, and it wouldn't start again. Kicking it did nothing. Pushing it did nothing. Checked the plug wire to make sure it was making decent contact, and the entire thing fell off the bike into my hands. Needless to say this was probably my biggest problem the entire time. I forced the cable back into place, gave it one good kick, and she fired right up like it was fresh from the factory.

[video]https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10205352908814327&set=vb.1596786017&type=1[/video]

Anyway, I know this was a long story, and thank you if you made it this long. I just barely half expected either of these bikes to run (have never tried to resurrect bikes that have been treated this badly), so was very proud to be able to take it down the street a few times without having to spend any major money on major repairs (at least with this SSR). I still have a lot of questions about them, and I'm still dealing with some clutch problems on the Roketa, but I hope to turn these bikes into something fun for my sisters, and to learn a lot working on 'em. If there is any good info I should know, or if anyone can recommend anything at all, feel free to let me know.

 

[Cordogs]

Sure thing dude!

I have done a few of these "Low Budget" revivals, low budget being the operative word.....

My last build not long finished: http://www.miniriders.com/china-builds/40198-cordogs-100-china.html

IMO and this only relates to me here in Australia because of prices but. When I buy a "cheap" china bike that's been sitting forever, I will now immediately bin the carb and buy the replacement off ebay. The fact of the matter is that here in Aus good Carby cleaner is about $16-$18 and a new carb off ebay is $20-$25. So for the sake of a couple of bucks and saving a **** load of time get the the ebay carb.

Valve clearance is essential fix that asap.

And lastly if this going to be an on going "fix her up n flip her" kind of set up. Do yourself a favour and buy some cheap parts from ebay that you can have sit in your shed so when these "Bargins" roll in you can isolate problems quickly and not waste too much time.

Hope this helps
Cordogs

 

[criggs]

Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it.

I almost bought a new carb off ebay, myself. I actually planned on doing this tomorrow, thinking that there was no way I could get the one I have clean enough. Got lucky I guess =P.

As for the valve clearances, are you referring to adjusting the tappets/valve lash? If that's the case, I plan on checking that this week when I go back over there, and actually had a couple of questions about it: Is it something that comes bad from the factory and just needs to be checked/set? Or is it a maintenance thing that I should adjust every so many rides? Also, are the clearances a generic value across all of these Chinese bikes, or should I find a spec specific to this SSR? Again, any info is much appreciated.

 

[Cordogs]

Check out this thread "Valve Clearance"


There's a fair few good threads like this one stickied in the Tech forum,

I check mine every few rides, but that's only cause I flog hell out of it!
Guess it depends on how much you ride it mate, once set properly they should be good for ages..

As the old saying goes " If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

[criggs]

Thanks man, that helps a bunch. Definitely going to do that, as well as a few other things, when I go over there this weekend.

Ran into a problem I'd like some input on if anyone can: I had to replace the front brake master cylinder on this bike, but after many phone calls and internet searches was unable to find an exact replacement. So, I ordered a complete front brake assembly off Ebay. I had a few issues getting it installed correctly, which led to me having to disconnect the brake line from the caliper. I ended up getting it fitted fine, but when I attempted to bleed the brakes, I found that the screws in the master cylinder cap were so tight that I was unable to remove one of them. One broke loose, but the other is beginning to strip and round out. The only thing I can think of is to hammer a phillips bit into it as firmly as possible and then go at it with an impact screwdriver. Would this be a good idea, or are these things known for not being able to take much of a beating? Would hate to break this master and then be unable to return it if I still can't get the damned screws loose.

 

[my67xr]

I normally use a small centre punch and hammer, first hit it lightly between the slot's to indent it.
Then angle the punch so that it will turn the screw head anti clockwise then tap it a few more time's and undo it

 

[criggs]

Ok, so a few updates on the budget bike:

I was able to get the reservoir cap off. I had to do like my67xr suggested and use a small chisel and hammer to smack it loose (after already breaking two different phillips bits with a impact screwdriver). So I got it installed and bled, and I finally have front brakes!

The other night I went over there to install the new coil/plug wire and air filter I ordered. Got it all installed, fired it up to see how it ran with the new wire, and it ran really good, but for some reason I had to turn the Idle screw in about half a turn for it to idle. After that, if I leaned/rocked/moved the bike around, the idle would slowly climb up way too high. Then I'd turn the idle screw back out just a touch, it would come back down, and then slowly keep going down until it would just die. Went home and figured I'd mess with it later.

Went back today to do a few more things. I adjusted the valves like so many have suggested. I have rebuilt car engines before, including adjusting OHV and OHC valves, so I wasn't too worried. Just followed the videos and threads all over the site, got it done no problem. However, when I went to kick it over, the kickstarter stopped halfway down, like something was binding. If I did it slowly by hand, it was fine, but as soon as I tried to kick it, It would seem to get stuck, or something. I double checked everything thinking I had maybe done something wrong, but couldn't find anything. So I tried to get it just past the tough part and give it one good kick... and it fired right up like it were brand new. I guess adjusting those valves let them close a bit more, or something? Is it normal to be difficult to kick past the compression stroke? It feels like there is way more compression now, just want to make sure I shouldn't be worried about the drastic change.

 

[my67xr]

Yep sound's normal,
the valve's wouldn't have been closing properly, and once you adjusted them it's given you normal compression again.
As they wear, they seat into the valve seat a bit more and the clearance's close up.
When starting it, i push the kick start down till it start's to get hard (compression stroke), then hold my foot on the kick start lever with a little pressure on the pedal, then you'll feel the pressure start to release once it turn's over just past TDC, then you kick it from there.
It will help your kick start gear's last longer too.
When you fitted the new air filter did you use filter oil on it ?
If not it will be running a bit too lean, the oil help's it to run at the correct mixture and stop's the dirt/dust going through your engine.

 

[criggs]

Cool, glad to hear I did it right on the first try =P.

I did not oil this particular filter because I'm not sure if I should. This is the one I ordered:

Since it doesn't appear to be a standard foam filer, I wasn't sure if I should oil it or not. I'm not even sure if this is an ok filter to use. I just typed in "SSR 125 pit bike air filter" on Ebay and those are the only ones that came up. The bike didn't come with one when I got it.

 

[my67xr]

Yeah those filter's aren't the best.

What is the diameter of your carby where the air filter fits ?
Get yourself a decent foam filter like the Uni Filter, they cost around $15-$20 US and most bike shop's sell them or can get them in.
Don't forget the filter oil too


https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/catalogsearch/result/?q=uni+filter
SSR Pit Bikes USA - SSR Pit Bikes & SSR Mopeds/Scooters
Red Dual Layer Foam Air Filter 34mm 35mm 36mm 37mm 38mm 39mm Compare to Uni K N | eBay
Amazon.com: UP 4152 AST ANGLE POD FIL: Automotive

 

[criggs]

I believe it's a 40mm diameter. The filter I bought is a 40mm diameter opening and it fits perfectly, so I'll probably get a decent foam one to fit it, soon.

This morning I decided to get some work done on the other mini I picked up, a 2005 Roketa 125, and while I was working on it I found a TINY washer that must have fallen out of the SSR's carb when I soaked it in the Chem-Dip. Based on some diagrams I looked up, it looks like it's supposed to sit on top of the spring in the air mixture screw. Does that sound about right? Otherwise I have no idea where it came from. Also, the bike is still doing the weird surge thing when it is rocked or moved, but goes away if I turn the idle down low enough. I can kinda get it in a sweet spot, but it's finicky. The carb will also flood and overflow when I turn the gas on after having previously drained it, so I'm pretty sure the float valve is sticking or not moving properly. Not sure if that can make the bike surge quite so much, but I know it can't be good.

On a positive note, the SSR is pretty much ready to go as far as important things go. Here's a short video of me test riding it up and down our street the other day after adjusting the valves:
[video]http://vid25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/CRaSAfe/SSR_zpsux7qibot.mp4[/video]

Glad to have it running good, can't wait to get my sisters on it and see if they like it. Just need to find a cheap set of lower bars, now (it came with the tall bars on it, a bit too tall for a 10 and 8 year old).

 

[my67xr]

What carby are you currently running, the Mikuni or Keihin ?
With the Mikuni, there's a rubber o'ring right down the hole where the mixture screw goes in,
so then the washer goes in next then the spring and mixture screw goes in last.
That way the washer protect's the o'ring from being ripped up by the end of the spring.

If it's the Keihin, and the o'ring goes on the mixture screw, then the washer goes in after the spring.

It sound's like the float level is a bit high, and is causing the surging etc when you rock the bike
There's possibly dirt or something stuck in the needle and seat too, to make it flood.


Pro Taper SE bar's come in low, medium and high, and colour's black, titanium or silver

 

[criggs]

The carb on this SSR is the Keihin 26mm. I didn't see any o-ring in the air mixture screw, but I'm pretty sure that's where the washer came from. When I removed it, the spring came out with the screw, and I imagine that the washer (and possibly an o-ring) were left inside. Whenever I get around to replacing the float valve, I'll double check and make sure I didn't leave an o-ring in there without the washer =P.

What I finally DID get around to was getting the tires mounted and installed on the bike. So, aside from a new set of handlebars (which I am waiting to be shipped), it's ready for the dirt =].

One new thing I noticed, though, is that it leaks oil from the lower valve/tappet cover. Possibly just the o-ring/gasket, I hope?

 

[my67xr]

The rocker cover's just use an o'ring to seal, they are easy to find at bearing shop's or hardware stores

 

[criggs]

So we took the SSR out on its first desert trip today, and it performed admirably. Started up in the first couple of kicks, and ran like a champ the entire day, no problems whatsoever. My sisters (whom I bought it for) are still a little afraid of it and spent most of the day riding an automatic XR 70 that a friend brought, but they took a few spins on both which isn't bad for their first time riding. Everyone else loved the SSR, and the child who normally rides the aforementioned 70 learned how to use a clutch on the SSR as well. My girlfriend (who is also still learning) followed me around with it and had a blast. My mom even rode it around for a bit. Definitely worth the 100 bucks I spent on it =P.

Here's a couple of pictures of the SSR in the trailer with my RM 125, right before we left for the day. Really wish I had taken more pictures...

Only two complaints with it thus far:
- The seams on the seat upholstery came apart quite easily. Not a big deal, just annoying, expected of a cheap china bike.
- The linkless rear suspension rides quite rough. Very stiff over bumps. The bolts where the shock mounts to the frame and swingarm seem like they have shot bushings or something, as they have excessive play even when fully tightened down. I'm sure this contributes to the rough ride.

But yeah, anyways, the bike was a lot of fun, can't wait for the girls to start riding it a bit more confidently. Hopefully I'll have more pics next time =].

 

[criggs]

Took the SSR back out to the desert this past weekend and it was fantastic. The bike starts first kick every time, ran great all day, both days. Finally got both of my sisters to ride it around, and although I pretty much had to force them (they were too scared to try on their own free will since this was technically their first time riding it), they eventually wouldn't get off the thing. I'll post a few videos once they are done "processing" on my photobucket.

I gotta say though, you guys weren't kidding when you said "Locktite everything!". The morning of the second day I took the SSR for a short ride, and about halfway through I noticed it sounded much louder than usual. I looked down and saw the header pipe had fallen out and was just hanging there. I went back to camp to check it out, found out that both of the nuts and studs had fallen out. I tried to fit any bolt that would hold it in for the day, but ultimately ended up taking it off and had to ride it with no exhaust for the rest of the day. Also, a few hours after that, I noticed that the foot pegs were loose, because TWO of the four bolts holding them on had fallen out. It was almost funny. Almost.

On top of all of that, I noticed that as well as the oil leak from the bottom tappet cover, it is also leaking from the small cover at the very top of the cylinder head as well. Is this just an inspection cover type thing? Easily changeable gasket, I hope?

 

[my67xr]

Yeah the front plate hold's the head to the engine.
Just nip up the bolt's if they're not too tight already.
Degrease it and check it again later

A new gasket set is cheap for them, over here they're under $10 for a full gasket set, if you get that you'll have spare's
The set doesn't come with the rocker cover seal's though.
You could make your own from .8mm gasket paper by tracing your's and cutting them out

Just pull the o'ring's out and grab some new one's at Wallmart etc, get some sightly thicker so they will seal better.
The stock one's are 30mm i/d, 36mm od, 3mm thick
http://www.walmart.com/ip/O-Ring-Viton-3mm-Black-Round-ID-24mm-OD-30mm-Med-Hard-Durometer/41102398
Dont over tighten the rocker cover's either

 

[criggs]

Well I'm glad you recommended tightening the head bolts first, because they were LOOSE. I'm surprised the thing ran with them that loose. Tightened them all down quite a bit, and so far the leak has at least slowed way down. I'll keep an eye on it, but I'm hopeful. Also got a chance to re-fit the exhaust to the bike with some new bolts from work. Didn't have any studs/nuts for the header pipe, so hopefully some regular bolts will hold it fine. Otherwise this bike has turned out to be a great investment. Other than the bolts coming loose I couldn't be happier with it so far.

 

[criggs]

Finally got rid of the scratched, flaked, crappy spray painted plastics on the SSR and upgraded to some new (albeit plain) black ones:

Sorry for the crappy phone camera pics. I really wanted white number plates to go with the black plastics, but for some reason couldn't find any that weren't all black as a set. So I got a set of Red plastics with white plates for my other pit bike, and swapped them around. Not bad for just plain color plastics. Just need to address that seat now =P.

Also, I forgot to post the videos of my sisters riding it around for the first time (I believe both of these videos are after the exhaust fell off, so that's why it sounds... uhh... bubbly).

This is Emma, who is 10 years old. She's the more nervous one of the two. I had to literally force her feet onto the pegs and her hands onto the bars, and walk with her until the clutch was all the way out, but she eventually ended up having a lot of fun. This is actually her second or third ride of the afternoon:

[video]http://vid25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/CRaSAfe/Emma%20ride_zpszpkw4g7k.mp4[/video]


This is Ashlee, 8 years old, the youngest of my siblings. She took some convincing as well, but is quite "adventurous", and was the first of the kids to shift out of first gear:

[video]http://vid25.photobucket.com/albums/c53/CRaSAfe/Ashlee%20ride_zpssmtppnq2.mp4[/video]



Kinda boring videos really, but I'm proud of them, and happy to see them enjoying the investment I made for them.

 

[criggs]

I have recently run into a new issue with this bike that has been driving me nuts. For some reason it has developed a bog when the throttle is snapped quickly. If you roll it on normally, it seems to be fine. But if you snap it wide open quickly, it just bogs and will die. It also doesn't sound as aggressive as it used to. This bike has always had instant throttle response, so I know there is something wrong here. The tappets have been adjusted (I keep them adjusted every few rides or so). The carb has been cleaned. Spark plug has been replaced, although admittedly I haven't checked the gap. Can't seem to work out this weird bog issue.

Also, the float needle seems to get stuck intermittently, as once in a while the carb will start to overflow and I have to shut the gas off and let it sit for a minute before I can turn it back on. I'd like to get a re-build kit for this carb so I can replace the o-rings and the float needle, but can't seem to find one anywhere. I'm thinking that maybe, if I can fully rebuild this thing, maybe it will fix both problems, and was wondering if you guys can help me find what I'm looking for. Here's the carb I'm working with:

Any help would be much appreciated, I'd love to get this bike back to normal.