SSR 125 Clutch Problems

[Randy Bobandy]

I have an SSR 125 and I was hearing a weird noise from the clutch side of the motor. The noise would go away if the clutch was pulled in. I took the cover off and found the problem to be a loose retaining nut. Tightened the nut, locked down the tab and put everything back together. Started her up and the noise was gone. The problem now is the clutch won't disengage. I've messed around with the adjustment screw and even taken the cover back off and manually pushed the spring loaded tube......nothing. I've removed the clutch and took it apart inspecting the plates and springs, everything seems fine. I'm really not sure how that bushing that sits inside the bearing disengages the clutch. Any help would be awesome, I really don't want to have to take it in to be serviced if it's something I can fix.

 

[my67xr]

hi welcome to Miniriders,


don't forget to drop by and say g'day in our Introduce Yourself thread while you are here too.


when you removed the clutch cover, is the clutch towards the back of the engine, or towards the front ?

 

[my67xr]

on the inside of the clutch cover there is a pusher that may have fallen out ?






if you take the cover off and check it's still there,
try moving the clutch arm on the outside of the cover upwards and see if the pusher moves towards the clutch about 5mm

 

[Randy Bobandy]

Thanks for the reply. Everything seems to be correct. I've had everything apart and don't quite grasp how that "pusher" relieves tension on the springs of the clutch allowing the plates to slip past each other. My clutch is just like this.

 

[my67xr]

i'm guessing you didn't take the centre out from inside the outer housing ?

on the inside of the clutch directly behind where those 4 screws sit, there are 4 big springs that hold the clutch disengaged.

the pusher inside the clutch cover, pushes on the bearing and the outer clutch housing moves in towards the engine
this takes the pressure off the 4 bigger springs, and allows the clutch plates to spin against the pressure plates .

when you pulled the clutch apart,
once you removed the big circlip on the engine side, the clutch plates would have popped out, this shows you how much pressure the 4 clutch springs have onto the pressure plate and clutch plates when it is disengaged

 

[Randy Bobandy]

So that spring loaded bushing and the top hat looking thing that sits inside the bearing don't do anything? I'm going to mess with it tonight after work thanks for your help.

 

[my67xr]

the little spring loaded tube in the centre of the bearing is to direct the oil through the bearing onto the pusher.
the top hat part compresses the 4 clutch springs against the pressure plate

 

[Randy Bobandy]

So no luck:confused-smiley-014 I adjusted the clutch screw that presses against the "pusher" as far in as I could so pulling clutch lever would apply as much force as possible to the bearing/clutch housing but nothing happens. Guess I'll just have someone look at it and explain whats going on.

 

[my67xr]

i think i might have spotted a problem
have you taken the chrome clutch cable arm out of the clutch cover and refitted it?
the little retaining pin is missing in your pic.
if it fell in behind the gold brackets it may be keeping the pivot arm from moving in enough when you pull on the clutch.



did you check that the pusher slides in and out of the clutch cover when you lift the clutch cable arm ?
it should lift about 4mm - 5mm away from the cover

the clutches are pretty simple to reassemble, and check

also when fitting the clutch plates onto the centre splines of the hub, did they slide on nicely?
they would have worn to suit the hub, so they will only move on the splines when they are lined up to the correct previous place
otherwise it can cause the plates to bind up on the splines

just keep turning the plates one spline at a time, to find the nicest/smoothest fit
if you have to force it a little to get it on the hub, it will bind and become sticky.

i have just taken a step by step shot of how to reassemble it

compare it to your clutch


clutch outer




springs fitted



pressure plate fitted, make sure to align the spring seats on the other side with the springs in the cover




clutch hub fitted over the pressure plate




clutch plate




steel plate




clutch plate




steel plate, circlip wear mark to the outside




compress hub into the clutch housing



fit circlip, then turn the clutch over.



at this point you should be able to push on the outer bearing side and feel the spring compress a little as you apply force, this also shows you that the clutch plates are not binding up inside.

now to refit the springs refit the damper springs,









now it is ready to refit to the crankshaft.
make sure the tension washer is facing the correct way, the stamped outside marking to the outside
and then refit and do up the nut firm.

 

[Randy Bobandy]

Hey thanks for taking the time to help me out. I left the hub on the shaft when I took the clutch apart and after I put it back together I just slid the clutch back over the hub. I will try putting the clutch together with the hub and see what happens thanks again

 

[Randy Bobandy]

So I took the bike in to have it looked at and the guy said everything looked correct and he didn't know why it wasn't working. I'll have to try to find someone else to fix it nobody around here wants to touch the Chinese bikes.

 

[my67xr]

if you cant sort it yourself,
have you tried Eurogeek Motorsports ?
i see they have a review saying they fixed someones Honda Z50 which the engine is pretty close
show them this thread so they can see the pics of the clutch setup even.

 

[Randy Bobandy]

So I got the clutch to work. Still not sure what the issue was but after riding around a bit I got some response from the clutch. Thanks for the help.

 

[my67xr]

all good mate.
it's a lot better for you to fix it than paying someone else


click on the Introduce Yourself thread link in my 1st pot and chuck a picture up of your bike too