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Mate, if you want to use our members to help you and support you in every little decision in your quest to deliver ''Australia's best pit bike'' then please show us all how serious you are and help support us by applying to become a sponsor. Until then we cant allow you to advertise your business in any way because its not fair to our current sponsors who help support this site and look after our members. They pay for the privilege to advertise here which helps us to keep improving our site so every ones happy.

Going by what you have said so far im not very confident that you can produce anything that you claim anyway. For example, you say you will have these bikes for sale by February, so if thats true then that means your not even going to bring in a few sample bikes for testing to iron out all the kinks and check the overall quality before you commit to bringing in bigger numbers to sell. Im sure it will fill everyone with confidence knowing that you just ticked the boxes on some website to create a bike that you consider to be one of the best even though you had only seen it in pictures on your computer screen. Sounds just like most ebay sellers and we have seen many of them come and go.

i agree thump all this sounds like is another get rich of the pitbike industry attempt. i mean if this GUY was a true part of the industry you would think he would have an idea of what's decent and what's not, not here asking if z155's are made by zongshen to me that sounds like he (sydney motorsports) know's little or maybe nothing about the industry or the way its headed. i dont care what any one says but bikes arnt built on second hand ideas there built using research,TESTING and development...

another fly by night...
 
i agree thump all this sounds like is another get rich of the pitbike industry attempt. I mean if this guy was a true part of the industry you would think he would have an idea of what's decent and what's not, not here asking if z155's are made by zongshen to me that sounds like he (sydney motorsports) know's little or maybe nothing about the industry or the way its headed. I dont care what any one says but bikes arnt built on second hand ideas there built using research,testing and development...

Another fly by night...
agreed ,,:d:d
 
Yeah well he's obviously easily sucked in by reading BS on China sites or on the internet ... ie on the one hand he thinks VM24's are 26 mm carbs ... and on the other hand he says they're 28 mm carbs ????? ... The carb size is accurately stated in it's name ... ie VM24 ... LOL ... But just in case he STILL doesn't get it ...

A $1 coin is 24.9 mm in diameter ... it won't go into the venturi of either a VM24 OR a MOLKT , instead it sits about half of an inch out and away from the slide at the entrance of the venturi ... yet it floats with plenty of room to spare in a genuine 26 mm OKO's venturi ... right up to the slide ...

Measuring the rear outlet bore of a carb is as useful as measuring your butt hole diameter to determine how big your throat and breathing capabilities are ... IF you believe that adding a flared out funnel to the outlet end of a hose will allow it to flow more water ... then good on you ...

The ONLY thing I can see the coned rear of a carb possibly doing is to deflect reversion /pressure waves back to the cylinder (like the reverse cone of an expansion chamber) ... Pressure waves make the engine run richer and bog under load ... ie the charge picks up extra fuel on the way out past the slide ... then picks up more on the way back in giving a super rich mixture which doesn't burn too well under load ...

From what I've read ... the major factor with the knock off VM24's has been the lack of pilot jet kits for fine tuning ... IF none are available , he'd be better off using a 24 mm flatslide OKO ... At least then people would get a decent return if they decide to sell theirs and upgrade to a 26 or 28 ...

I've previously stated that a 24 mm carb would give the BEST overall throttle response , torque and rider friendliness ... (Novice and beginners) ... The Chinese obviously know that ... so they are trying to fool people into believing that they've got a 26 or 28 mm carb on their bike when they actually have a 24 mm carb ... otherwise they'd cop a heap of complaints from throttle "jockeys" saying they can't tune the bog out ... when it's them snapping the carb open too quick for the engine to handle ... (Just as Thump*140 says) ... A quick turn throttle doesn't go to well with such people who learnt on two stroke bikes or accelerator carb'd 4 stroke bikes ...

As for the throttles ... Things to look for are :

1) Genuine Nylon throttle tubes are the most compatible with both steel and alloy meaning there's minimal "stiction" ... the throttle works smoothly without binding on the bar and snaps back to the off throttle position quickly without the need for lube on the bar ... The problem is that most Chinese throttles use crappo plastic which is weak so they break under hard usage ... ie the cable end rips out ...

2) Alloy Billet throttles are stronger and more reliable ... but some of them have a two piece throttle tube ... the throttle cable cam is screwed or pressed onto the tube (then crimped on) and comes loose or unscrews over time ... The best throttles are the Joker style (4th ones) ... But you have to make dead sure they have a one piece billet tube that has been hard anodized ... Some tubes are made from soft crap which bites into and causes "stiction" on steel or tries to weld onto cheap alloy bars ...

Rule number one DO NOT USE SIMILAR ALLOYS for bearings or where parts can rub together ... Alloy throttle tubes really need a Nylon insert pressed into them to insulate them from contacting the steel or alloy bars ... bearings would be even better ...
 
yea cactus I have the 4th one, an the throttle cable cam is screwed onto the tube...... the problem is on hard landing it came loose from my amature grip on the throttle twisting it forwards......
the fix is to use lots of locktight, never had a problem since and I think it's a great throttle, maybe a bit touchy down low in combination with the PWK copy carby, but overall it works well and apart from the problem above is solid and trouble free
 
Well if the tube is two piece you got jerked off with an el cheapo throttle ... Billet means machined from one solid piece ... I bought 3 from DHZ a while back and they are ALL fully machined with a one piece billet tube ...

I bought one "Billet" throttle off ebay ... and it has a crap cast housing with the 2 piece tube ... The crappo - fako's come in a blister/cardboard pack ... the good ones come in a zip lock plastic bag ...
 
yeh got mine from DHZ roughly 8 months ago.... stooged :(

but it's fine, does it's job well
 
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