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kits should be cheaper from classic honda MM or even from reefy. what bike and engine is this for MM. is it a yx or a 155 or 160ho.. always go the long skirt version for engine life

link us up MM... short skirt for more power yes but less life and quicker blow ups lol...

sounds like you have a gremlin or 2 kicking around there... throttle cable is definitely too long.. as for how the carb is acting, are both carbs the same? jets the same? vacuum leak?

its all personal preference mate.... they all work the same but require different length cables

seems like a lot of stuffing about just to get a limiter lol your going to need a regulator as well... 11volt lipo battery may be a little easier...

yep you wont get any good news from me either... for a fraction more you can get a heaps better bike...

so your talking about that type of yx150... basically there just a glorified yx140.. more stroke and slingerless. they rev good, pull hard but still not as good as a 160 lol if buying secondhand, no matter what you look at make sure it has an updated engine case.... youll suffer if it hasnt

do you want to explain this a little further... you'd be the only one wanting a limiter lol but a gy6 stator guts wont fit... just buy one from dhz

if your getting false neutrals then you have gearbox issues... i personally have never had a drama... akunar springs are good value.. worthy upgrade... removes the valve float but doesnt make any more power as by the time the valves float your already out of power..

ya can get the blue box to work. iv done it several times.. even used a stock cdi box on an irk.. but the irk pickup may be firing just at the wrong time... probly needs advancing if it isnt kicking back... try adjusting the pickup all the way down.. could even try unscrewing the pickup flip...

has to work...

you dont top the brake fluid up that way.. there will be a plastic cap with either 2 small screws or hex head bolts.. you will need to bleed he master cylinder and caliper before they will work

what colour is the spark? does it kick back at all? does it puff back thru the carb when kicking it? and when you say racing cdi are you just talking about the original one that came with the inner rotor kit... small black or red box?

yeah im pretty sure there same too... see plenty of china pipes on honda's lol edit... also as said the pipe angle is the same.. these are crf based engines so!!! klx style engines...well thats a different story, unless it has a dirt max head on it which retains crf50 style intake and exhaust...

its pretty straight forward and no different to wat ya had before except maybe now you got charge wires... youll have to cut the plugs off and get yourself new ones from supercheap or an auto parts store.. or solder them and tape them black/red to black/red (stator coil) green to green...

do some homework on what type of headset bearing's your frame uses.. could be some swear words getting thrown around trying to make things work

can't rotate it unless you cut it and weld it.. i usually cut the clutch arm back and re drill the hole for the cable bracket... only problem is you end up with a heavier clutch and less travel in the arm due to it being shorter... still works tho

only other thing i can think of with the brakes seizing is the calipers are poorly machined... or you's have the master cylinder rod over adjusted... try backing it off

just bleed the master bro.... pump it up and crack the line bolt on the master till air/fluid comes out.. do it a couple of times and it should be sweet..

personally, iv never experienced any problems with the yx160 or 160ho that i haven't experienced with a 125 or 140.. even my 200cc 155z survived... gearbox is still sweet but i cracked a case from compression... apparently 13.5:1 is too much lol and Harry, it has me stumped how you have so much...