150 or 160 YX Engine?

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ummm idk but from wat ive read the 150's have a much better power down low than the 160's and if your in the bush your probally not gonna have it flat out in 4th gear lol.I have the 150 bigfoot and it pulls my 75k ass and whellies in 1st 2nd and a bit in 3rd and itz not even "run in yet" so yer just a bit of advice. OH and the problem with the case isnt a big problem if you kick the bike over proply.
 
Thanks DvDRip and sean01, Good info. I will be interested to hear what you find.
I will still be heading in the 160 direction though I think.
Krazed, Cheers mate. Will let you know how I go.
oldhack.

Are you the proud owner of a shiny new Nitrous yet? :)
 
Are you the proud owner of a shiny new Nitrous yet? :)

Krazed: I won one yetserday for $615 :D Pretty good price I think as the last 2 went for $745 and $660. Thought that was not bad, although it gonna cost me nearly half that to get it here and its gonna be after easter by the time I get it :(. But you get that.
I bought the 160 so lookin forward to that first spin on it. I have printed off Thump140s post 'actung noobs' so I make sure I do all the important stuff first (cheers thump). Don't wanna bust it or have it fall apart on the first ride! Thanks for your help trying to stir up Atomik to put the 160s back on, it seemed to work! They have had 3 on at a time this last week.
Sean01 and DVDRip: Thanks for the info on 150's.
Cheers guys,
oldhack :cool:
 
It is confirmed!! the atoiks are running up to date cases/bearings so either 150 or 160 are good to go ;) I'd personally go the 150 for the oil filter, slingerless setup and stroke, plus u can fit aftermarket kickstarter on the 150, 160 u can't

img0164fy.jpg
 
Cheers DvDRip,
Good to know.
I have bought the 160 after the reccomendations I was given at the time. Still waiting for it to arrive though (thats what u get 4 livin 1600km from Perth!)
oldhack
 
Newbie question here. Im looking at getting an Atomik with either of these engines.

So if the case cracking problem is no longer an issue then the 150 is the way to go?

DvD can you explain a bit more about the advantages of the 150 over the 160?
 
welll I been running an atomik 160 in my bike for months n it goes hard so no complaints there. I'm building a bike now with the yx150 so I'll let you know what I think.... I just think it might be the better engine, it's slingerless and comes stock with a lightweight outer rotor, has an oil filter built in the cases, the external oil filter on the 160 doesn't catch anything, that's about it really.
 
Thanks DvD.

What is the advantage of not having the oil slinger?
 
less weight on the crank, revvs quicker... oh yea and the daytona yx150 has a smaller bore and longer stroke so that should make a difference in power too
 
less weight on the crank, revvs quicker... oh yea and the daytona yx150 has a smaller bore and longer stroke so that should make a difference in power too

If I buy a Nitrous 150 and get sick of the power is it possible to whack a 160 head on it (or different piston/crank to big up the CC's)?

Other than the sh1tty oil cooler they have strapped to the 150 and the fact that it has 10cc less, it seems to have better features, ie the bottom end and over the top brake pedal, than the 160.

Any thoughts on what would be best suited for motard (bearing in mind I REALLY like power... My 600cc 110hp roadbike isn't nearly enough, and I've been riding since I was 7) and which will be able to go the fastest cheapest?

I'm leaning towards the 160, but I'd like as much input as I can get :)

Cheers!
 
i have 2x yx 150cc
1x has tb kit and v2 head f$%king hard to kick over and
1x has takegawa head with de-comp cam
how can i tell if the case is damaged?
do you have to strip them to see?
what changes when it is cracked?
 
how can i tell if the case is damaged?


do you have to strip them to see?

Yes you do. Not fully. Just take of the clutch cover and you might be able to see, if not take out the clutch, oil slinger and you'll be able to see a crack in it is indeed cracked. Some times you can see the crack on the outside of the motor.

what changes when it is cracked?

Compresion, oil usage, gear changes ((might)(Not going into gear properly)), slipping out of gear.
 
Yes you do. Not fully. Just take of the clutch cover and you might be able to see, if not take out the clutch, oil slinger and you'll be able to see a crack in it is indeed cracked. Some times you can see the crack on the outside of the motor.



Compresion, oil usage, gear changes ((might)(Not going into gear properly)), slipping out of gear.

ok thanks, all seems to be the same as when i got it.
doesnt jump outa gear and i have been measureing the oil when i drop it
what a pain to have to change the case if they are the old type bugger!
what is the main cause or there is none they are **** material
 
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