150cc T-rex Daytona motor - photos

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He would've had to use the 28 tooth Daytona cam sprocket on the cam in the Takegawa / Lifan head for it to work with the 14 tooth Daytona crank sprocket ... otherwise he'd change the 2 to 1 ratio and bend the fook out of the valves and most likely destroy the engine ...

If he changed the Daytona crank sprocket to 16 teeth and ran the 32 tooth Lifan sprocket the cam chain tension might have been right ...

But that all depends on the distance between the cam tunnel centreline to head gasket surface ... it might be different on the Daytona head compared to a Lifan or Takegawa head made to suit a Lifan ...

In a nutshell ... if the stock engine is running an 88 link chain and you reduce it to 86 links without changing the cam and crank sprocket diameters ... then to keep the stock chain tension you'd have to reduce the crank centreline to cam centreline distance by exactly the distance between the pins on one link of the cam chain ... That's basic engineering ...

If you increase the chain slack (which is sheer stupidity because it'll result in cam whipping) ... you'd definitely need to have increased valve to piston clearance and avoid kick back or turning the engine backwards ...

As he says ... it only takes a light tap to bend the puny valve stems in Horizontal motors ...
 
thanks cactus, the takegawa +r head is designed for the lifan engine, which uses the 32t cam sprocket/16t on crank, where the daytona uses 28t/14t. the real reason for the shorter cam chain is on the daytona head they moved the cam location farther up in the head so they can get the proper intake runner, valve angle and rocker ratio. it really is a smart move on daytonas part. hope you guys understand if not i can take some pics so it's eaiser to understand. ok now on to the base gasket story, i really wanted to use the 14:1 high comp daytona piston but was unsure if it would clear the valves with only 1 base gasket with the s35cam, so i assembled it with one basegasket, then clayed it. the valves cleared the piston but it was a tad to close for me, of course i could have just fly cut the piston to give i a tad more clearance but i did not have the time as i had to get the engine together that night as we were set for testing the next day. so i just added another gasket giving me plenty of room between the valves and the piston. the bike ran killer, has good bottom end and pulls forever. our pro rider beat the piss out of it for awhile, we had the track for 3hr. he said it makes a tad more power than the 167cc/z40 cam combo but the big factor why he liked it more was the takegawa combo power range was huge. he said it pulled forever and really never seemed to sign off up top. all and all my opinion is it is a nice upgrade but i am not sure it is worth the $ as the 167cc/z40 combo is only $200 compared to the $600 price tag of the takegawa head. hope this helps you guys out. sad thing is it is coming apart wend for the 4v dohc kit.
 
yeah thanks Hackmunch and cactus. sounds like a killer 150 setup. be interesting what the power on the 4v is compared to the Take +r.

i guess you could also do the 167cc combo'd with the Take +R head. that would be a killer combo for $800 compared to the 167cc 4v head combo price of $2000++.
 
Guys, check out my new motor for 2010. i will be taking this T-Rex to vegas with me giving me the best opportunity to win races. Cant wait to face up to all the guys this year on this motor. this thing is way faster than my old 160V2 combo I had last year.
 

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if you think thats fast imagine this, since wiseco (guys who make the forged 4v piston for daytona)is in our backyard and we have a friend that works for them, we are gonna contact them and make us a few 60mm forged piston with the exact same profile as daytonas 57mm mill so we can run a high compression 167cc DOHC for vegas. i know daytona has a 63mm? stroker crank on the water but i feel with a 4v dohc does not need anymore stroke than what it has, it needs more bore for sure. just a thought.
 
Niiiice looks like it'll do the job Boxy .

Best of luck over there mate ... if ya podium I'm gettin sh#tfaced ...real sh#tfaced
not this pussy halfway thing the kiddies these days seem to be into I'll be p#ssed as 50 sailors on shore leave :D
 
if you think thats fast imagine this, since wiseco (guys who make the forged 4v piston for daytona)is in our backyard and we have a friend that works for them, we are gonna contact them and make us a few 60mm forged piston with the exact same profile as daytonas 57mm mill so we can run a high compression 167cc DOHC for vegas. i know daytona has a 63mm? stroker crank on the water but i feel with a 4v dohc does not need anymore stroke than what it has, it needs more bore for sure. just a thought.

Get it workin and you'll be able to ride it all day in half an hour it'll be that quick ... good luck with the piston manufacturing and the build mate, let us know how it goes
 
if you think thats fast imagine this, since wiseco (guys who make the forged 4v piston for daytona)is in our backyard and we have a friend that works for them, we are gonna contact them and make us a few 60mm forged piston with the exact same profile as daytonas 57mm mill so we can run a high compression 167cc DOHC for vegas. i know daytona has a 63mm? stroker crank on the water but i feel with a 4v dohc does not need anymore stroke than what it has, it needs more bore for sure. just a thought.

I like the idea of more power but realistically i dont think you could ride that thing flat out for 10 laps on an indoor where your ass is so tight waiting to be punted at any second.
SOMETIMES LESS IS MORE.

I can ride this thing flat out all moto.

But still i'd like to ride a bigger one if the gearbag could handle it.

Thankss for the support dready. I will be pissed as 50 sailors if i podium.
 
Hackmunch... why wiseco...they have gotta be the worst piston i have ever used.
and i been using them a more than 15 years up untill about 4yr ago..

the alloy seems too soft and there flat out lasting longer than a genuine piston...
 
Hackmunch... why wiseco...they have gotta be the worst piston i have ever used.
and i been using them a more than 15 years up untill about 4yr ago..

the alloy seems too soft and there flat out lasting longer than a genuine piston...

i noticed that when i re-built my mates CR125, the wiseco didn't last quite as long as the genuine piston and also didn't feel as tho it made as much power.

He run's genuine piston every re-build now
 
the only reason for wiseco is they are local and we have a friend that works there and we can get a huge discount. he said wiseco has the diamentions on file so all they have to do is change the cad to 60mm and bam we have a winner. since the stock 4v piston is 11:1 and we copy that out to 60mm we will be sitting at 12:3 to 1 with the 167cc setup. trust me i dont need more than 10hp, i understand your guys point but our pro guy thinks we should put a 450 engine in it lol.
 
well yesterday we tore down the TAKEGAWA +R daytona 150 and replaced it with the daytona 4v dohc kit. upon opening the daytona dohc kit box i was suprised as hell to see how much you actually get with the kit and the quality of the components. you get a set of kevlar clutch plates, D.I.D. high tensil strength cam chain, NGK plug. NGK silcone plug with a special plug cap to fit the dohc head. longer and more heavy duty engine studs, wiseco forged HC 57mm piston, ceramic nicasil all aluminium 57mm cylinder, matching intake for 4v head with rubber boot, 4v dohc head assmebled and valve lash set, real keihn pe28 with assortment of main jets and pilots in a neat little box. slotted cam sprocket and all the gaskets,dowels and hardware needed to finish the install. basicly you get everthing from the cases up. install was a breez, nothing tricky at all. i looked at the head for awhile, the cnc work on the combustion chamber is a work of art, the ports had been cleaned up at the factory prior to assembly from what i could tell. would i port it? if it was mine, sure i saw a few spots i would have liked to be more knifed edged but everything else looks very good. intake matched perfect to the head and also to the carb, you can tell this kit was designed all together with raw HP in mind, not just of random parts thrown together and hoped they would fit lol. they recomend you replace the existing 88t cam chain for the HD D.I.D. 88t one that comes in the kit because of the aggressive cam profile and the way the dohc gears are setup. so that was 1st to do, while i was swapping cam chains, sam replaced the origional clutch pack with the new japanese kevlar plates that came with the dohc kit, then we swaped out the stock engine studs for the longer and more HD 4v dohc ones. after that was the piston and cylinder combo, again nothing tricky just putting pieces of the puzzle together. then came the 4v dohc head. it comes fully assembled so i checked the valve lash and it was set from the factory .006 intake and .007 exhaust so we were good to go. slapped on the 4v dohc head, matching intake and pe28 and we were about done. next was setting the cam timing, i set it right in the middle of the slotted cam sprocket so i can see how the power delivery is and i can adjust accordingly from there. there only looks to be about + or - 3 degree of adjustment on the cam sprocket. once the cam timing was set i adjusted the ignition timing back to its neutral spot also so once we do some testing i can also adjust it accordingly. last we put the oil cooler back on and installed the FMF 4.1 exhaust ,filled it with oil and fired it up. started 2nd or 3rd kick, engine does not kick all that hard but the rings are not seated so its hard to tell. i will tell you this, i have built and heard some bad ass engines over the years, this is no doubt the baddest ass engine i have ever heard, it revs from 1000rpm to 10k in a blink of an eye and sounds like a full blown pro circuit 250f. now from just warming this engine up and doing a heat cycle or 2 i would only recomend this setup for the A class or really good B class riders as this thing is gonna be snappy as hell and could get you hurt in a hurry. now is the time for a full turn throttle lol. well the weather gods are cooperating and sams klub has dried out so sam will be testing friday and sat, craig will get some video and pics and we will get them up asap. enjoy.


EVERYTHING THAT COMES WITH THE 4V DOHC DAYTONA KIT RETAIL $1999
dohc1.jpg



THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER OF THE 4V DOHC DAYTONA HEAD
dohc2.jpg



THE INTAKE PORT OF THE 4V DOHC HEAD
dohc3.jpg



WISECO FORGED PISTON AT TOP DEAD CENTER
dohc4.jpg



HEAD INSTALLED AND ADJUSTING THE CAM TIMING
dohc5.jpg



DAYTONA 150 WITH 4V DOHC KIT COMPLETED
dohc6.jpg



4V DOHC KITS INSTOCK AT WHOLESALE CYCLE ON DISPLAY
dohc7.jpg
 
wow...thats a beast right there....but seriously: Who needs something like that on a pitbike ???:D;)
 
so this is the 150cc setup I imagine as its the whole daytona kit and not the 60mm wisco.

if the 150 4v runs 11.1 compression, when you bump the 160 stroke in from 58mm to 62mm odd, what would the compression be?

its just looks like pure quality and worth the money. what a beautiful kit.
 
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woah, thats alot!
daytona say that the 160 stroker can be used with the 4v head, but that is pretty high.
maybe you can machine that little dome off the piston to lower it.

it would have alot of kickback with advanced ignition. would have to be a bump start job.
 
yes this is the 150cc version. with the 160 crank the compression would be 11.75:1. if you want to figuire it out on your own its easy. the combustion chamber volume including the piston reliefs and piston dome is 13.63cc. so just divide your engine cc by the combustion chamber volume and you get you compression ratio. 150cc divided by 13.63 = 11 so its 11:1 160cc divided by 13.63 = 11.74 so its 11.74:1 comp and with the 167cc kit it would be 12.25:1 but remember the deck heigths and piston dimentions have to be exactly the same on all 3 setups to get these numbers. the easy way to get your compression ratios up is to cut down on the combustion chamber volume, if you can cut your combustion chamber volume by only 2cc you can raise your compression 2 full points. like with the 167cc engine, if we cut the combustion chamber volume by 2cc reducing it to 11.63 we would be at 14.36:1 compression ratio. hope this helps.
 
thats good to know. thanks. but i dont think this will work with the 160 stroke as the piston is being pushed up 2mm higher into the combustion chamber so the combustion chamber volume would be smaller.

so does that mean i take the area of the 57mm piston, times by 2mm hight, and take that area away from the comb chamber and then use that to find the ratio.

give me a second and ill try it.
 
Pie Radius squared = 3.14 x (28.5 x 28.5) = 5.1cc

so 13.63 - 5.1 = 8.53cc

then 160cc div 8.53cc = 18.75 : 1 that carnt be right.



As stated by daytona:-

the daytona 150 2v has 12.5 : 1 comp
the daytona 160 2v has 14 : 1 comp
and Hackmunch says the 150 4v has 11:1 comp

Hack has said the 4v has a combustion chamber of 13.63cc
does anyone know the volume of the 2v head chamber?

(catus Jack we need you)
 
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