I have seen many requests for where to get 10w/40 mineral oil. And above I see genuine Honda oil recommended. The truth is this. All new vehicle and machinery dealers stock the geniuine brand oil for there particular equipment like the Honda 10/40 above. This oil will be full mineral oil. Most of the time this will not be written on the bottle. If you still don't believe, ask them. They will admit it is fully mineral oil. This is because it WILL give a better run in and you will definately need it if you follow their gentle run in reccomendation if you are to get a ring seal at all! They also would like you to continue to use "genuine oil" because it will, after run in, bring about the earlier retirement of your machine.
Synthetic oils have detergents to continually cleanse the inside of your engine and modifiers to suspend the particles in the oil until it is changed. This stops sludge build up in all the nooks and crannys and the narrowing of critical oil passageways. It also has friction modifiers and anti shear qualites designed in for the reduced wear of high stress and close tolerance parts. It withstands much higher temperatures before it begins to break down on a molecular level and is definately the **** to be running in these hot little, high revving race engines. The correct wieght is important because the oil pump is designed to pump within a certain range and under a particular pressure. You run heavier oil you load the pump, increase oil pressure throughout the whole system, engine runs hotter, hydrolic cam chain adjuster is affected, ability to feed close fitting parts is affected e.g the wrist pin, it does not splash as the lighter oil around the tranny or the top end, is slower to circulate especially at start up, the slinger action is affected, shifting is not as clean and the wet clutch definately not operate as well especially if you have increased the power. Now that all sounds pretty dramatic and some of those effects will be minor and some will be major. The longer this is run this way the worse the effects obviously, but if it is out there to buy...run the right oil.
Oh I forgot to add that it is hard to find mineral out there at the servos and shops, but like i said the oils that dealers supply is 99% of the time mineral. I personally use John Deere 10/40 for all my break ins and I run them very hard when I do.
Synthetic oils have detergents to continually cleanse the inside of your engine and modifiers to suspend the particles in the oil until it is changed. This stops sludge build up in all the nooks and crannys and the narrowing of critical oil passageways. It also has friction modifiers and anti shear qualites designed in for the reduced wear of high stress and close tolerance parts. It withstands much higher temperatures before it begins to break down on a molecular level and is definately the **** to be running in these hot little, high revving race engines. The correct wieght is important because the oil pump is designed to pump within a certain range and under a particular pressure. You run heavier oil you load the pump, increase oil pressure throughout the whole system, engine runs hotter, hydrolic cam chain adjuster is affected, ability to feed close fitting parts is affected e.g the wrist pin, it does not splash as the lighter oil around the tranny or the top end, is slower to circulate especially at start up, the slinger action is affected, shifting is not as clean and the wet clutch definately not operate as well especially if you have increased the power. Now that all sounds pretty dramatic and some of those effects will be minor and some will be major. The longer this is run this way the worse the effects obviously, but if it is out there to buy...run the right oil.
Oh I forgot to add that it is hard to find mineral out there at the servos and shops, but like i said the oils that dealers supply is 99% of the time mineral. I personally use John Deere 10/40 for all my break ins and I run them very hard when I do.
Last edited:
