Brendo's 140 Build (heaps of pictures)

[Phil67]

One word - WOW

 

[8r3nd0]

Cheers Roy means alot coming from a hall of famer such as yourself haha would love to grab a fifty of the month but there's some many schmick rides getting round. Yeah Mick I've taken it out a couple of times and the thing sounds a fair bit throatier than before, not as much as I thought it would but still a nice deep note, she's defiantly breathing better. As for power I reckon it gained a bit but its hard to say as I kind of stuffed up and done a few things at the same time like a new NGK lead and iridium plug and I also leaned it out down low so yeah I reckon it did but how much I dunno. Just dropped a tooth on the front to as I'm mostly stuck in 2nd and 3rd, I don't really have flat out runs so would rather have that back tyre spinning its more fun where I ride.

 

[motovert24]

Hey Mick i got the billet sprocket from DHZ, i didnt know it was black so i stripped it at a mates work and then took to it quickly with the metal polisher and the covers from ebay. Also heres the link to the lines Harry i think they have both red or green. Auto Performance Silicone Hoses items - Get great deals on Silicone Hoses, Blue Red Black items on eBay Stores!

did you get the super flex ones?

 

[8r3nd0]

Na mate not from memory, I'm on tapatalk at the moment so I would put the link If I knew how but this what I got from them, Blue Silicone Hose Fuel & Oil 1 Metre 8mm. Hope this helps ya out mate.

 

[motovert24]

think i found it, 1 Metre Silicone Straight Long Hose - Silicon Rubber Coolant Radiator Pipe Water | eBay
?

 

[8r3nd0]

I made sure that the ones I got said they were for fuel and oil. Open up the link to their page then search for, Blue Silicone Hose Fuel & Oil 1 Metre 8mm. That description is cut and pasted from the item I bought.

 

[8r3nd0]

Just a little update on the 140 for ya's, and what can I say it's been faultless apart from the usual stuff but the balance had been ticking me off for awhile and always felt the bars were off so decided to fix it all up this arvo.
I ended up cutting down the risers to bring the bars down and there for able to roll them back to be level.

They now feel perfect and while I was at it decided to move the top shock mount to compensate for the longer dnm & elka that I swap out from time to time.
I managed to level it up nicely and set it up pretty well perfect and adjusted the sag while I was at it.

Also started to flare the left hand plate for a possible plan I have which is to go dual pro circuit cans. I've sussed it all out and it's possible I've just got to decide wether or not the extra weight is worth the bling factor.
What's the thoughts of the masses?
I'm thinking it is, so watch this space haha.


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[nickv1980]

Ok finally got all the parts on and reshaped the seat to more of my liking, i'm stoked with it so here she is.

Just noticed your coil lead .. why did you use that adapter to connect it to your original lead ? you could of just unscrewed the original lead at the coil and screwed the whole new NGK lead straight into the coil no ?? am i missing something lol

By the way your bike look bloody fantastic !! top work

 

[8r3nd0]

Yeah mate from memory I had to use the adapter because the NGK lead was to thick to fit into the takey coil but now you've got me thinking I only just hooked up a NGK lead and takey coil to the motovert so Ill check it out. Maybe there is a size difference somewhere along the line because I know the recent takey coil didn't have a thread in the coil barb to thread the lead onto so had to epoxy it together.
What's your thoughts on going twin circuit cans mate, also how's you exhaust hunting going?


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[my67xr]

those adapters actually house a large capactior inside them.
each time the spark is sent down the lead, the capacitor will hold the charge until it reaches it's peak, then it'll send the spark though to the plug.
so they deliver a bigger, more consistant spark each time they fire.
definately worth keeping it fitted.

 

[8r3nd0]

those adapters actually house a large capactior inside them.
each time the spark is sent down the lead, the capacitor will hold the charge until it reaches it's peak, then it'll send the spark though to the plug.
so they deliver a bigger, more consistant spark each time they fire.
definately worth keeping it fitted.

Cheers mate, you defiantly know your stuff. I never new that, I just looked at it and it was the split fire lead I had that didn't fit into the coil and when I got the NGK lead I just plugged it into the joiner, so long story short I can plug it straight into the coil but you reckon with the takey super coil, adapter and NGK lead I should have a really strong spark even more so than just coil & lead.


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[my67xr]

yeah it sounds like a very good combination....

the only thing is, i would be a bit worried about the fact that the new coil didn't have the self tapper thread sticking out?
in the coils' post where the lead fits, was there just something there like a strand of the leads' conductor core?


most of the big japanese manufacturers make their coils with the end of the lead embedded in the epoxy inside the coil casing.
it has basically no chance of arcing out anywhere, and is a very strong join to the coil.

but, in the last 10 or so years, i have noticed that on the chinese coils, they have a self tapper embedded into the coil.
doing it this way, i think it would take up less room to store them without a lead hanging off the end.
and they can ship them easier, without the chance of damaging the solid core spark plug lead.
then when they get to where they're going, they screw on the correct length of wire, with the correct type of spark plug cap to suit the individual application.
it would give them less wasteage too.


do you have a part number for your new Takegawa coil?
i did a quick search but could only find the Hyper red or blue coils,
but the ones i found only come with the fixed (non removeable) spark plug lead.

 

[8r3nd0]

This is the coil it's the one that classic50s are selling.

I've had two of these coils now and both have had a removable lead both with the little pin sticking out the first one which is on this bike actually had a thread on it so you can screw it on but the recent one I got for my motovert 150 build still had the pin but it doesn't have a thread on it so I pressed it on and used epoxy to glue it in. I haven't had any dramas and still noticed and improvement with the idle and response I just found it strange.


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[my67xr]

aah ok, that sounds good then, the pin idea has been around for years as well.

my old 1975 Yamaha MX125 had a coil like that, and so did my old Deltek minibikes too.
pretty sure we had heatshrink tubing holding the leads into the coils? it was a long time ago though.

all good,
that setup will last for years, and having a decent spark at the plug, the CDI and Stator will last a lot longer too

 

[nickv1980]

Yeah mate from memory I had to use the adapter because the NGK lead was to thick to fit into the takey coil but now you've got me thinking I only just hooked up a NGK lead and takey coil to the motovert so Ill check it out. Maybe there is a size difference somewhere along the line because I know the recent takey coil didn't have a thread in the coil barb to thread the lead onto so had to epoxy it together.
What's your thoughts on going twin circuit cans mate, also how's you exhaust hunting going?




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I think i had a Taky coil on my Dpro with an NGK lead screwed straight into it i had no idea those crazy looking adaptors had a capacitor in them ?? maybe to make up for loss due to having the joins ?? i dunno but either way I've always ran my hi powered coils with NGK leads screwed straight up to the coil looks neater and I've always noticed a small amount of bottom end gain and smoother idle easier starting etc..

Ive got a Kitaco Super coil 2 on the lxr now those things are fat ! its 10mm wider than my stock coil and barely fits up under the side of the tank and it looks like i could run an 8.8mm lead into it ...

As for the exhaust i haven't got the funds to finish it yet so I'm gonna wait a few weeks but I'm pretty sure the stock baffle has blown half its guts out now the 190 is in it because she's getting stupid loud now I've checked for leaks and its all sealed up nicely still so its gotta be the china baffle ....

Dual pc pipes mate sounds like a plan it would be a first i haven't ever come across a pitty with twin pc's ! id love to see it though ;-)

 

[Rodney68]

those adapters actually house a large capactior inside them.
each time the spark is sent down the lead, the capacitor will hold the charge until it reaches it's peak, then it'll send the spark though to the plug.
so they deliver a bigger, more consistant spark each time they fire.
definately worth keeping it fitted.

Thanks Craig i didnt know that. I have a NGK Race Coil and lead and with it came with that adaptor do you think it is worth putting the adaptor on to boost the sparkplug performance. This is on my Braaap that Tristan races.

 

[nickv1980]

I don't think there is a capacitor in the NGK adaptors i just went out to the garage and had a look at the Unused NGK adaptor i have still in its packet with the directions ...

The directions show an internal view of the adaptor and its basically a double ended screw pin configuration with the opening on one side approximately 7mm and the other side around 8.1mm in my observation it is supplied to adapt a larger coil lead to a coil which cannot accept the NGK 8mm lead only which is pointless on most of the china coils these days as the 8mm lead will fit no problem I'm more than willing to cut it in half and throw up a few photos to verify but I'm certain its just to adapt larger leads

 

[Rodney68]

Thats is what i thought it was only a adaptor Nick.

 

[my67xr]

they are worth having on your lead.

if you want to see the difference,
pull your plug out, earth it against the motor, and watch the spark when you kick it over.
you can see the sparks' intensity taper off (as the motor cant run with the plug out) when it slows down

then take your spark plug cap off the lead, and screw the capacitor onto the end where you just took the cap off
then refit your plug cap on the end of the capacitors' lead
put the spark plug in and kick it over again.
you will notice the better spark,
and you'll also notice (as the motor slows down from being kicked over) the spark is still quite intense as the motor slows.

and by burning off more fuel, it will make a bit more power too, it all helps the motor run more efficiently,

 

[my67xr]

have you seen these, same sort of thing-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/I-KAT-CA..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item563c4a2200&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/I-KAT-CA..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cad0022af&_uhb=1