Dhz 140 Outlaw

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hellrazor

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Hey gang,
Pretty new to the forums - and i've just got myself a spanker Dhz with the Zongshen motor in it. Looking forward to putting it together tonight.
Just a quick one - does it matter what petrol i run in it, whether it be 91RON, 95ROn or 98RON? Does it matter if i put premium in it, instead of unleaded? Pros/ Cons?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BTW - I'm using Thump's instructional on how to put me bike together!

Cheers
 
hey mate, these motors arent exactly high-performance weapons running tight tolerances and superlean efficient fuel injection, so they should be fine to run on normal unleaded. You can choose to run them on premium, but i have never had any issues with running them on 91RON fuel. :)

glad to hear the set-up thread came in handy. If you find anything missing from there when you assemble your bike, let me know, and i'll add it in there.
 
Haha ok no problems - Thanks for that.
I got a smaller sprocket for the front to give it some more roost - but for now, i'm going to go through it and do all the little things and work my way up. Is it worth getting an outer rotor kit for it?
 
hmm... depending on what gearing you already have, a smaller front sprocket may render first gear a bit useless... those things are geared pretty short standard.
and yeah the ORK's are a good kit for them. dont give you any more power, but they do allow it to rev a lot quicker. :)
 
It's geared at 16/41 - you reckon it should be ok?

Any other recommendations while i put it together?
 
yeah 16/41 should be fine for it, i wouldnt go much lower than that.. i'm running 17/37 on mine, gives a top speed of well over 100kph... :)
Apart from greasing everything that needs it, there isnt much more that i can suggest in regards to initial set up that isnt in the "set-up" thread.
If you decide to go looking for more power, there is another thread in the Tute/how to section called "Basic performance upgrade guidelines"...
Lots of good stuff in there too. :)
 
Haha yeah i had a look at that thread- there's some good stuff in there which i'll be working on over the new few weeks, to bring it up to scratch.

Thanks for the advice mate - ill let ya know how it goes
 
Hi Thump,

I got majority of the bike together last night - but forgot about the petrol, so that will have to be tonight! Haha.

a couple of problems.
1. I couldn't get the plastics to slots into the holes on the frame. Are they actually supposed to go in there?
2. My uni filter's head is too big to fit on the carby and slips off every time i try and tighten it? What's up with that?

Also, i havn't bled the brakes, but do you recommend i do it? And should i use dot3? Where would i get dot3 in melb city during the day?

Attached are pics of my probs!

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Ok, the seat tangs, (bits of plastic on the seat base that are meant to slide through the little steel loops on the frame) should fit through the holes. easiest way to get them through, is to loosen the bolts holding the tank to the frame, slide the tank forwards if possible, then see if the seat tangs will go through. sometimes a little force is required to get them to fit... once the tangs go through the loops, pull em off, and tighten the tank bolts so it's in the right place, then refit the seats and plastics. :)
as for the filter, it appears the filter provided with the bike is a little on the big side, ie it's too big for the external carby throat diameter. easiest way to rectify this, is to measure both the external diameter of the carby throat on the filter side, and the internal diameter of the air filter, where it slides over the carby throat. the two measurements *should* be the same. if they are not, i'd email Ken from DHZ, and simply inform him that the air filter supplied is too big, and give him the external measurement (diameter) of the carby throat. Given Ken's aftersales service, i imagine he would be able to furnish you with the correct size filter pretty quickly.
As for brake fluid, yeah i'd suggest flushing the standard brake fluid with Dot3 or 4 stuff, which can be purchased at pretty much any petrol station. it's not hard to come by. :)
It is a slightly tricky and tedious process, but is definately worth doing, as the standard china fluid is pretty bad, and has a tendency to be very thin, and degrade very quickly.
Most importantly though, is changing the "transport" oil in the engine, and replacing with 10w40 MINERAL engine oil BEFORE you ride it. :)
 
hey i noticed in the last pic it looks like the chain is pretty well tensioned right up...

be a good idea to back it off a little...and check the tension with you sitting on the bike..

as an over tightened chain will put extra stress on the gearbox resulting in bearing wear and then cracked cases...

also if you havent done so already, drop the oil and put some quality stuff in it...(youve probly read to do that already)

and with the air cleaner, just make sure there is no oil residue on the inside of the rubber and be sure to use a clamp that is the correct width for the recess on the carby and position the clamp as far to the front of the air cleaner as possible but not hanging off

anyways, the bike looks sweet..
 
^^^he's right, that chain is waaaay too tight...
all the details are in the basic set up thread, stick to those, and you'll be gold mate. :)
 
Ok, the seat tangs, (bits of plastic on the seat base that are meant to slide through the little steel loops on the frame) should fit through the holes. easiest way to get them through, is to loosen the bolts holding the tank to the frame, slide the tank forwards if possible, then see if the seat tangs will go through. sometimes a little force is required to get them to fit... once the tangs go through the loops, pull em off, and tighten the tank bolts so it's in the right place, then refit the seats and plastics. :)
as for the filter, it appears the filter provided with the bike is a little on the big side, ie it's too big for the external carby throat diameter. easiest way to rectify this, is to measure both the external diameter of the carby throat on the filter side, and the internal diameter of the air filter, where it slides over the carby throat. the two measurements *should* be the same. if they are not, i'd email Ken from DHZ, and simply inform him that the air filter supplied is too big, and give him the external measurement (diameter) of the carby throat. Given Ken's aftersales service, i imagine he would be able to furnish you with the correct size filter pretty quickly.
As for brake fluid, yeah i'd suggest flushing the standard brake fluid with Dot3 or 4 stuff, which can be purchased at pretty much any petrol station. it's not hard to come by. :)
It is a slightly tricky and tedious process, but is definately worth doing, as the standard china fluid is pretty bad, and has a tendency to be very thin, and degrade very quickly.
Most importantly though, is changing the "transport" oil in the engine, and replacing with 10w40 MINERAL engine oil BEFORE you ride it. :)

Hi Thump,

Your info is terrific, and i appreicate every bit of your help.
I emailed ken the same pic of the air filter and he said it might be a bit greasy and to clean it and stuff. The throat of the carb is half the size of the inside of the air filter.
I will try and undo the tank and push the plactics through that way. You mentioned "once the tangs go through the loops, pull em off, and tighten the tank bolts so it's in the right place, then refit the seats and plastics. :) " What do you mean by pull em off once they go through?
I will do the brakes tonight.
I've already replaced the oil ( I don't seem that silly do i?!!!)
And yeah the chain is super tight ( should i just bring i back in a bit so its got around 30-40mm slack with me sitting on it) I'm replacing that chain after a couple of rides anyway - it's a bucket of shiet.

Also thump - i read your bit in bike set up about giving the brakes and throttle a little 'give' of 5mm - is this crucial to do - it just seems like something i probably couldn't do myself.

Thanks again guys - it's better to do it all myself now so i know what i'm doing if i ever have to do it again!
 
Hi Thump,

Your info is terrific, and i appreicate every bit of your help.
I emailed ken the same pic of the air filter and he said it might be a bit greasy and to clean it and stuff. The throat of the carb is half the size of the inside of the air filter.
I will try and undo the tank and push the plactics through that way. You mentioned "once the tangs go through the loops, pull em off, and tighten the tank bolts so it's in the right place, then refit the seats and plastics. :) " What do you mean by pull em off once they go through?
I will do the brakes tonight.
I've already replaced the oil ( I don't seem that silly do i?!!!)
And yeah the chain is super tight ( should i just bring i back in a bit so its got around 30-40mm slack with me sitting on it) I'm replacing that chain after a couple of rides anyway - it's a bucket of shiet.

Also thump - i read your bit in bike set up about giving the brakes and throttle a little 'give' of 5mm - is this crucial to do - it just seems like something i probably couldn't do myself.

Thanks again guys - it's better to do it all myself now so i know what i'm doing if i ever have to do it again!

Ok with the tank/seat thing.. once you get it all lined up properly so the tangs go through the loops, you will need to remove the seat, so that you can tighten the bolts holding the tank on. then you can immediately replace the seat and plastics... just meant that you line it all up, pull seat off, tighten tank bolts, replace seat. :)
still not entirely sure you have your carby and air filter measurements correct... there wouldnt be too many carbies out there with a 25mm outer throat diameter, and a filter with a 50mm internal diameter.. does the filter slip on, then "rattle" about on the carby throat, or does it slide on with a bit of tension? if it slides on, Ken is probably right in that it is oily, needs cleaning and should fit... if it is clearly a loose fit, which will be instantly obvious, then yes, it's probably the wrong diameter filter.
As for the play in the throttle and brakes/clutch cable, it's not vital to have exactly 5mm of freeplay, but you do need SOME freeplay. It's really a very simple process to adjust the freeplay... merely a case of undoing the adjusting nuts and loosening or tightening the adjusters..

Here to help mate, anytime. :)
 
Ok with the tank/seat thing.. once you get it all lined up properly so the tangs go through the loops, you will need to remove the seat, so that you can tighten the bolts holding the tank on. then you can immediately replace the seat and plastics... just meant that you line it all up, pull seat off, tighten tank bolts, replace seat. :)
still not entirely sure you have your carby and air filter measurements correct... there wouldnt be too many carbies out there with a 25mm outer throat diameter, and a filter with a 50mm internal diameter.. does the filter slip on, then "rattle" about on the carby throat, or does it slide on with a bit of tension? if it slides on, Ken is probably right in that it is oily, needs cleaning and should fit... if it is clearly a loose fit, which will be instantly obvious, then yes, it's probably the wrong diameter filter.
As for the play in the throttle and brakes/clutch cable, it's not vital to have exactly 5mm of freeplay, but you do need SOME freeplay. It's really a very simple process to adjust the freeplay... merely a case of undoing the adjusting nuts and loosening or tightening the adjusters..

Here to help mate, anytime. :)

Ok - The seat/ plastics thing sounds schweet now, so ill give it a crack tonight. The rear fender, shrouds and seat are all joined into one.

As for the air filter. Sorry - I'm getting you a little confused. the diameter 9 or even radius) measurements are fine, it is the length of the actual black bit on the air filter which is twice the length of the part of the carby it actually slides onto ( I'm still not making any sense am i! ) I'm going to get a clamp which fits i between those ridges on the carby nice and snug, clean the filter, and give that a go - should work sweet.....

As for the freeplay thing - i will do that tonight when i do the brakes.....

Far out - The way you guys throw out your assitance - I'll be a small engine mechanic in no time!!!

Thanks again
 
ah yep, now i'm with you as far as the filter goes... yeah they make the "snout" a little longer, to fit a variety of carbies, and it will only go so far onto the carby throat. put it on as far as you can, then tighten the clamp around it. Theoretically, if it's the right size, or even a tiny bit big, the clamp should still hold it on tight. :)
as far as the seat and plastics go, yeah it's all a "one piece" job once assembled, but sometimes you need to play around a little with the alignment to get it all fitting snug. :)
I've tried to make the basic set up thread as simple and easy to follow as i could, but if you have any dramas, PM me, and i'll talk you through it. :)
 
This is why i love the internet.

Thump - your a supreme champion. I'm sure we will share a 6 pack one day.

Sank-de-much
 
hey guys...
well recently my younger brother left to live in another state and he left he motorbike here that he just recently bought... and i know it a 140cc outlaw he bought from DHz but i need help starting it for my son to try out and ride and i have no clue in the world of motorbikes of starting the motorbike or maintaining it.

soo... i wanna know the petrol i should use and any oil requirements like engine oil or brake oil something like that.. i need to know in detailed cause.... :( my husband aint home to help me out

another problem is starting how do i start it? :( seriously a big problem....

please HELP ASAP! before i do it myself and goes all wrong
 
you'll need to change the oil, get a bottle of castrol activ 4t from supercheap auto. there's a bolt under the engine, put a pan under it and take the bolt out to drain the old oil, you'll need to tip the bike side to side to get as much oil as possible out, then pour in 900ml of fresh oil and check the level on the dipstick, add more if needed.

then you'll want to drain the fuel out, just pull the fuel hose off the carby and turn the tap on to drain it. fill the tank with unleaded, not premium just normal unleaded.

now clean the airfilter with turps or kerro, let it dry then you need sparingly rub an even layer of airfilter oil through it, you can get this oil in a spray can from supercheap auto.

if the bike hasn't been run for a long time it's also wise to clean the carby by soaking it in petrol with the float bowl (the bottom) taken off, with the float bowl off take out the 2 jets (like a hollow screw screwd upwards on the inside of the carby) soak them in petrol then blow through them as hard as you can to flush out any dirt, or blast them with an air compressor.

while you're at supercheap get a NGK C7HSA spark plug. you'll need a long 16mm socket to replace the plug.

now.... with fresh fuel, engine oil & spark plug, a clean carby and oiled airfilter you should be ready to start the bike.

there'll be a switch on the handle bar that you need to click to on, unsually the smaller part on the switch pressed down means on.

make sure the fuel tap is on and follow this video to start it properly without breaking your ankle:
YouTube - How to start a pit bike properly. Top Dead Center.
 
OMG thanks sweetie i appeciate your help very much but you see i'm like pretty weak as a woman that just reached my 25 year old mark and yeah dont have the energy to start the bike or know what the hell is a carby or airfilter with turps or kerro, let it dry then you need sparingly rub an even layer of airfilter oil through it, you can get this oil in a spray ... :(


ohh and how much would it take to get them service it and get a new rear tires cause i found out it was busted

really appreciating the help...

love ya ;p XOXO
 
I new tire doesn't cost much. Go to your local tierer dealer and he'll do it for you. The airfillter is the foam thing comeing off the engine. The thing its conected to is the carbie. I'll find pics for you soon :)
 
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