Ducar 125cc loose flywheel - stator

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stevenpaul

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Hi guys just wondering if any one else has had this problem ?
Im running a ducar 125 with pony cdi, 24 mikuni
i put in a gpx 7mm race cam took it out for a ride after 5-10 min bike stops and the stators come loose it isnt a irk just the std one i tried a couple of times doing it up as tight as posible.
it just keeps happening do i need to run a irk with the cam
its started to stuff the crank
 
put ur stator on then ur fly wheel, line the flywheel correctly with the crank then hit it with a hammer or mellat, hit it on the black dot things in the centre then tighten the bolt really tight while holding the flywheel with a clamp or similer
 
wats coming loose? flywheel or stator? if it the flywheel then your crankshaft is probably already stripped.
 
if the cranks stuffed, the cranks stuffed. thats all there is to it. its a fairly precise taper on the crank and inside of the flywheel hub, and its that taper that holds it together. the key is there to line it up with. the bolt just assists the taper lock.

ones its buggered, theres nothing you can do. possibly very carefully with a file remove any burrs, and then some 400 grade wet n dry...
 
yeah its the flywheel thats coming loose
the thred on the cranks good its more the taper and the keyway thats abit rooted
i think im going to try lap the flywheel on the crank with some valve grinding paste
to get it better then belt it on like matty said and zip it up with a rattle gun thanks
fellas
 
I got it hard. Bought a motor for 400, 60kms later with a stripped crank. Sold it for $50. Thats what you get when you dont tighten the nut enough.

dsc00397.jpg
 
use loctite retaining compound

it will hold her there pretty good

but you will need heat to get it off again
 
hahah yeah thats no biggie though, yeah i ended up lapping it with the valve paste then cleaned it off with carby cleaner loctited the thread for the nut taped it on with a hamer done the nut up taped it again did the nut up some more
hammered it all long weekend no problem at all
it was close to being as bad as the picture above
so yeah you could of got that going again bud
even with the flogged keyway
 
aye, i was fiddling the other day and had the flywheel do the same thing....

cure?

1, file the rough edges around the keyway til its smooth

2, get two m10 bolts, about 30mm long, and weld em to the SIDE of a bit of bar- insert into flywheel holes/slots.why the side? cus if you weld em straight on, how do you get a socket onto the nut?:p

3, stand on bar and tighten the damn nut til it feels like its about to strip....

4, have a beer/bourbon/scotch/goon:p or all of the above then shot some vodka too look tough....

5, dont ride home drunk then get on here talking ****:p
 
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^^^^^ Wrap keyboard in glad wrap to avoid chunder spray damage ! ^^^^^ Yeah the 'old lapping with valve grinding paste works really good ... Some PVL IRK ignition kits come with a rotor which has NO keyway ... They rely totally on the taper to hold 'em in place ...

There's a ton of good info on IRK's in this link :

PENTON RACING PRODUCTS INC.
 
It sure did !! was quite suprised how quick it came back & now they fit perfect,
beter than they ever have
good link cactus jack they recomend 30ft/lb isn't real tight but if the tapers all good thats all it needs
 
my one stops to

i can ride for 5mins and it stops then i wait like 2mins then i can start it again and go for 2secs its pissing me off can anyone Plz Help me thanks!!!
 
Our family's 107cc Chinese p.o.s. has had flywheel to come off three times now. It has hammered the keyway out of shape.

I took Dremel tool to make keyway come all the way toward securing nut threads. I made a new key outta flat bar metal. File it proper size, used torch to make it hot, dipped it into water in an attempt to harden the metal a bit. Lined it all up, hammered key into keyway, tightened nut onto threads. Then drilled a 1,5mm hole through visible part of the crank, into bottom half of the nut, and through them all. I used a pin to lock nut into crank threads. Pin does not allow the nut to come loose more that 1/100th of a turn, and then it just locks on.

This has now worked perfectly, no more loose flywheels clattering inside engine.
 
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