Fiddled With carby ( im a tool )

[Franky]

Hey guys, i have a 125cc atomik stock carb not mikuni.. I fidled with airflow and petrol flow and now the bike will stall if i floor it, anyone no stock screw settings?

 

[noidea]

1.5 turns out from all the way in.

 

[SEDUCE]

hey noidea, do u know where the screws are on a stock agb29 as mine is running **** in 4th gear if u hold it flat it goes then dies and like floods itself??? if u can tell me the stock setting for this carb i might play with it but i need to know where the screws are ??
it just says on mine japan

 

[AMAINC]

Depending on your climate and area you may have to set if differently to stock set it to stock 1.5 - 2 turns and start the bit see that it idles off choke once bike is warm adjust air/fuel screw till you find optimum setting low idle and quick throttle response

A few orions with the mikuni style copy carb in northern NSW area with a uni filter fitted (RED) seem to work fine with the following setting
Stock Jets
Needle 2nd click from bottom
3 turns out on air/ fuel screw

This Is only a guide hope it helps

cheers

 

[noidea]

seduce your problem may be the jet needle. try moving it one clip up. (put the clip one step down to move needle up)

 

[SEDUCE]

sorry guys i dont know what screws u are talking about anyone got a pic or something??

 

[Redstar]

Sorry, I got no pics but hopefully, this text explanation can help.....

Unscrew the top cap where the throttle cable runs into the carb. Now carefully pull the spring upward to expose the cable itself and free up the cable against that aluminum cylindrical shape thingy (dont know what you call it). Once the cable is removed, look into the cylindrical thingy and see if there is v-shaped clip. If there is, this is quite simple to remove but be careful to avoid it flying out beyond trace. Now, push the needle upward to take it out of the cylinder.

Holding the needle, you should now see a circlip mounted on one of the many slots at the top end. This is the clip the guys from the previous posts are referring to.

Transfer upwards to close the needle (hardly what is normally done) or transfer it at a lower slot for the needle to be even more raised on all throttle opening positions..

Now, going back to your problem and out of curiosity, did you open the lower part of the carb as you fiddled with it? You may have altered the float level. Just checking on this so as to cover all bases, so to speak..

 

[Power Man]

Yeh i got pics

Can you see the screw that is on the very left ?that is you air fuel mixture.
On that is in the middle connecting to the barrel is the idle.

 

[SEDUCE]

Depending on your climate and area you may have to set if differently to stock set it to stock 1.5 - 2 turns and start the bit see that it idles off choke once bike is warm adjust air/fuel screw till you find optimum setting low idle and quick throttle response

A few orions with the mikuni style copy carb in northern NSW area with a uni filter fitted (RED) seem to work fine with the following setting
Stock Jets
Needle 2nd click from bottom
3 turns out on air/ fuel screw

This Is only a guide hope it helps

cheers

mate can you post a pic or tell me where these screws are as i have just fitted one to my bike and its not running right

 

[HardaFasta]

The screw on the left of the above pic (the recessed one).Screw in all the way,do not overtighten as you can cause damage to the alloy thread on carb and/or the brass mixture screw.Note wher the screw slot is in relation to it`s rotation.Now turn out 1 and a half turns.If you haven`t changed settings of the needle clip or adjusted the throttle cable it should fire,use choke if necessary.If it refuses to idle,turn the screw in on the left (pertruding knurled end brass idle screw) by slight increments until it idles.Warm the engine until it reaches operating tempreture 5-7 minutes and switch off choke if bike stalls or is warm or idles erratic or sluggish throttle response.You may need to restart the machine without choke during last proceedure,don`t worry.With bike at operating temp,screw in the right screw a little to a fast idle and give bike a few revs to settle the adjustment.Now adjust the mixture screw (left recessed) back and forward very slowly from the one and a half adjustment out to 2 turns and back again several times with a rev every now and then to settle the adjustment of the settings noting the sound and engine speed when it is settled at a fast idle.NB;What you want is the smoothest,quickest engine firing and speed,Note this.Now turn the mixture(left recessed)screw ever so slightly back in,may one eighth to one sixteenth of a turn.You want the engine to be smooth but the speed to "HUNT",seems as though it wants to increase in revs and idles relatively smooth.Throttle response should be quick.Return the idle to a respectable speed,by screwing the idle screw (right,pertruding) out in small increments and reving to stabilise,let throttle go and observe engine speed.Shut bike off and restart a couple of times to check if it works.Go for a ride and test her out.That`s it.

 

[SEDUCE]

My carb is different to that this is what i have

 

[HardaFasta]

Gee,this is the first mikuni that I have seen using that setup.It looks like a factory sealed and pre adjusted unit.They do this to some modern carbs for EPA emmision laws.Best bet is to raise the needle clip a notch at a time on the main jet (slide) until you have the desired outcome.Doing some research on the net by typing Mikuni Carburetors will shed light also,Keihin has a site,they explain all.WHAT THE HELL IS IT OFF? Does it match your inlet? What are you putting it on? What size choke bore has this carb got? What is the optimum flow rate in comparison to your engines needs? A air/petrol mix of 14.5:1 is optimal,what size jets is it running?All will be revealed.If it boggs down in top gear,it will obviously get you up that high,and yes it is probably running a little too rich,so it can`t be too far out,try raising the needle clip,and make the thing breathe easier with a good pod filter.

 

[SEDUCE]

yeah i just brought a uni filter and oiled it and it sounds like its drowning or suffercating??
where is this needle clip??

 

[HardaFasta]

Wash your uni filter in warm soapy water and dry it by hanging it out.Do not use petrol or solvents as it will disolve the glue holding it together.I use a lanolin based spray on my uni pod and use it sparingly,don`t drown it.You can use a light based oil and squeeze it out.But uni have a red spray that is designed for them,your choice.
The needle clip is on the slide,the moving cylinder that is conected to the cable with the screw on lid and the spring.Push together the screw lid and the slide and compressing spring.The cable has a ferel or knob on the end and fits into a recess on bottom,to one side of the slide.Push the cable down slightly while compressing spring and remove from slide,carefull not to let the spring go and get lost.Look down the top of removed slide and there will either be a w shaped circlip or a plate held with a phillips screw,remove.The needle should be able to be pushed up from bottom and removed.Have a look at the circlip and the grooves (maybe 5 grooves) and note the placement of the circlip (what groove it is in).Using a pair of needle nose pliers and grabbing the opposite side to the openning in the circlip remove the clip.I do this over a clean plastic bucket as to not lose the clip or needle.Re-install the clip one groove higher than it was.Assembly is reverse proceedure for the needle,base plate/circlip,spring,cable and slide.NB:when installing circlip,make sure the middle gap/biggest gap/middle gap in the W,is not going to interfere with cable.The cable should run through this gap.Make sure also that the clip is sitting flat on bottom and holds the needle and circlip in place and doesn`t jiggle around.Make sure the cable sits in recess properly.Make sure the spring holds the W circlip down.

 

[SEDUCE]

gee i hate this shiv
my bike is running like a piece of **** back firing and missing since i put this carb on and i took out the new spark plug(NGK C6HSA) and it looks very lean??
the tip is white
i dont know how to adjust the carby properly its pissing me off heaps it feels way better but then it dies and runs poor

 

[HardaFasta]

Bugger.Sorry mate,I have a 26mm Mikuni off a YZ 80 if your interested.Fitment may be an issue,it fits into a rubber sleeve instead of bolting.But it can be adjusted and looks the same size as the problem carb you have,going cheap.Hell for a bum steer I will give you a discount.Where you at mate?

 

[SEDUCE]

i am in brisbane mate i went to a shop near me and he has these new carbs that have a sort of twin car setup it runs two cables and for the initual twist of the throttle it squirts extra fuel in ???
it is a brand new carb i brought and i dont know what to do

 

[HardaFasta]

Seen one on Ebay.Some mob from Athens does them.They would be OK if you were running a 400 roadie.Don`t panic,where do I send the 26mm Mikuni,free.There must be a way to rig this 2 stroke mount up on the carb for a 4 stroke.

 

[SEDUCE]

oh are you sure mate that is enormous

 

[HardaFasta]

Throttle operated plunger pumps really only work on multi`s and such,like a car or high performance bikes.You may have been had.The comparitively low fuel burn rate of your small engine with one of these will run OK until you grab a handfull and she squirts straight juice down the guts and floods or will accelerate good and run very lean which will overheat and cause damage,I wanna see the pitbike he had it on running,even with just 1 carb.The pump rate could be backed off slightly,it won`t help you though.But look on Ebay,I seen the add just last night,and have a go at the pricks for their blatant scam.I had a look at one and thought that the guy was off his rocker or trying to suck someone in.It needs at least a worked 350-400 twin to work.Twin 26mm Mikuni`s with a dump plunger on a bike smaller than a small chocolate Moove,report the arsewipe