Gerro's 50 Build

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Yeah I only really like them for the sound they produce. I am leaning towards the Kitaco even though I heard they are hit and miss, just because they are not to bad of a price. I chucked the TB billet clutch basket in while I was doing the stroker just incase I did decide to go with a IRK.

I would love to get my bike sounding like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ViT_Lr8rcU

I know that this bike has the takegawa special clutch which moves the clutch..
 
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Kitaco


1727-Kitaco_inner_rotor_cdi_kit_lrg.jpg
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There was one on ebay in the states that was brand new and went for a bit under $150US last week that I should of jumped on but I ran up quite a bill for the stroker build. haha
 
Unless you plan on changing to a manual clutch mounted on the gearbox shaft not the crank I strongly suggest you don't get the inner rotor kit. You will break your crankshaft!! I have seen a tone of them break. I have even broken a $550 forged kitaco crank myself.
 
Thanks for the advice mate. I guess it's a pretty big risk for the sake of changing the sound of the bike. I haven't seen many ppl around the forums talking about breaking cranks just a heap of baskets and other clutch parts.
 
Yeah what usually happens is it starts to flog out the spline inside the clutch and that allows the clutch to rock back and forth and that quiet often twists the end off the crank.
 
I had a bit of a stupid hiccup when I was doing the 108 install I though might enjoy. The total install took around 10 hours from start to finish. I took plenty of time making sure everything was in place and all gasket surfaces were nice and clean. The 4 speed was a little difficult to cycle through the gears using the lever by hand but I was sure it was correct. I got the motor back in the bike, put the oil cooler on and everything bolted back up. I went to kick the bike over while holding the kill switch to get some oil circulating and the kick starter was seized up. I could not for the life of me figure out what the problem could be, I could cycle through the gears no problems but the bike would not budge while in gear. I loosened off the clutch adjuster screw and the kick start could than be moved. After 10 hours I needed a break and time to think about what the problem could be and contemplate repeating the whole process. I got up on Saturday morning and I decided I would check if I could spin the rotor by hand while in neutral, I thought if I can spin it in one direction it could be the piston contacting the a valve. The rotor was seizes in both directions which I found weird as it was rotating freely the day before. I backed of the cam cover to check the cam sprocket and once the cover was off, the motor was free. It then occurred to me in the final moments of the build I simply forgot to install the cam cover gasket which was causing the guide on the rear of the five-o cover to contact the cam sprocket. I chucked the gasket on and problem was solved.. Haha. The bike started first kick but kind of wrecked my Friday night though.
 
Got the jetting dialled in on the Mikuni VM26 this weekend, took a bit of stuffing about but the bike is now running like a dream.. Rode most of saturday arvo and done some nice trails this morning, first time I have had arm pump on a 50 haha. Should have my Five-o frame here by next weekend so I will have some stuff to organise before I send it of to the powder coaters. I am looking at getting the frame done in a gloss crimson red and will also look at getting the front fork uppers, hubs and rims done in satin black. Will keep you posted.

Here are a few new snaps in the mean time..


095 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


096 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


097 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


103 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


112 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


113 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


119 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


121 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


130 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


135 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr


134 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr

My mates stocker

124 by GrantGerrish, on Flickr
 
That thing looks nuts!! Love the detailed engine.
 
Man the bike is looking sick!
getting the frame and rims done sounds like a good idea!
maybe get some new rubber if your bothering with taking the wheels apart?
 
Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah both the tyre are pretty new bridgestones, fronts a m40 and and the rear is a m403 or something like that. I would like to get a 12" hoop for the front
before I get the wheels rebuilt so I don't have to pay to get it laced twice. I think I've stuffed a front wheel bearing I think as well so gives me more reason to the fast50s hub I have got sitting here. I got a quote to have my frame painted in house of kolor - candy apple red but it was $450.00, so I think powder coating maybe the go.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345988242.422486.jpg
 
looking good champ

are you keen to sell the stock frame ???

Yeah mate would probably sell it for the right price. It is the only thing I've got with my frame number on it though.
 
Looks like a sweet colour dude!
but are you going to upgrade your front end? because no point wasting money on new hub and rim for the front if your going to get a new front end in the feature. IMO
 
Yeah I will eventually replace the front end just not sure when. If I buy it new it will probably be a while but if a good second hand set comes up I might snap them up. I already have the hub and thought to get the wheel parts pc'ed won't cost much extra.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346023609.004981.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346023630.259962.jpg
 
When i upgraded to the 108 stroker I also got the TB bolt kit which gave me a good start to replacing all my stock hardware. Today i picked up some replacement bolts from a local supplier for the rest of the bike. I am changing the standard hex bolts over to stainless steel 316 hex. socket head bolts. The suspension/engine mount bolts will be high tensile grade 8.8 as I am not comfortable with stainless for such important components as it can work harden and become brittle.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346159096.375674.jpg
 
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