Going to try the new Hummer G4

[Wildman]

Muffler came up very well,sounds great.

Picture of pulled down muffler and piping I used.

[/URL][/IMG]

Mobile phone photo,bit average

 

[CibbyDoc]

Have just pulled the guts out of my muffler,going to go straight through with perforated pipe surounded with packing.

See how that goes,if its no good I'll just get one from Bataycan

Yeah...was thinking I would do the same...where do you get the perf pipe?

 

[CibbyDoc]

My brake prob stems from the disc diameter I think...as you can see from the photo it only uses half of the disc....so very innaffective in stopping.

Here is the link for the Manual:
RapidShare: 1-Click Webhosting

Its 14MB so be patient.

Regs Steve

 

[rodbox5]

Hey Rodbox i have twin pistons on my front caliper, so you might just want to contact Atomik and they will probably have it as a spare part and i would probably say that it will fit exisiting bracket's.
On my Kuda Pro i have no issues with my brakes even on dirt she pulls up fast enough.

Sorry folks - I maybe didn't put that too well.

Mine has 2 pistons as well - but the thing is they need to be both sides of the disk rotor. On mine the pistons are both on one side and the other side is just a passive brake pad. Applying active force to both sides of the rotor is what gets you increased brake power.

I saw your photo Cibbs - and mine are about the same. Your rotor looks a bit roughed up on the photo though - and that might be a partial problem.

I must say mine tend to work pretty well. I replaced the Chinese brake fluid with Ferrodo dot 4 - and this has made quite a difference.

You also have to watch you don't have any oil, grease or other fluids impregnated into your brake pads - and also no air in the brakeline.

I'd check out a few more of the basics Cibbs - before I spent hard earned cash!

 

[CibbyDoc]

Yeah...your right Rod...I could just be a bit fussy oo...my street bike has twin 4pot disks and sintered pads and stops on a 5c piece...so I might just put it on the latter dude list.

Thanks mate.....

 

[Wildman]

Thanks for putting that link up CibbyDoc,great info in there

 

[Wildman]

Yeah...was thinking I would do the same...where do you get the perf pipe?

[/URL][/IMG]

Its screen used in the milling industry for cleaning grain,not sure where you can get it in Sydney.

 

[rodbox5]

Good Book on M/C Mechanics

I've had a few folks e-mail me to ask if I could recommend a good book on motorcycle mechanics.

This one is pretty good and covers how a motocycle and it's components work, maintenance procedures (with good photos, diagrams & step by step instructions), and trouble shooting maps.

The book also has some component upgrade projects you can do at home - and has a great section on what you will need to set up a good home workshop.

The book is called "The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance" and it is by Mark Zimmerman.

If you source it from an Australian bookshop it'll cost around $60 - but you can get it for almost half that price from Amazon.

Amazon book link is as follows:
Amazon.com: The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance: Books: Mark Zimmerman

 

[CibbyDoc]

Thanks Rod.....

Its a great book alright. Used it as a ref many a time.

Wildman thanks for that shot of the screen. Will try some of the custom exhaust places round here and see if I can pick up some prefab stuff.

 

[Archie]

Thanks Rodbox, goodies arrived today, much appreciated....will fit them when I get the chance.
cheers

 

[rodbox5]

Protecting Cables & Wires

Here's a quick way to stop your cables and wires chafing on the frame cable channels/cut-outs

Picture (1) shows the tools and materials.
The tube is fly screen retaining ruuber.
Tools are just a stanley knige and side cutters.

Step (a) Cut off the rubber tube to length and cut straight down one side so that it can be opened up as shown in picture (2).

* Note that the tube will have a natural bend - and that it is better to slice the tube open down the inside face of the bend.

Step (b) starting at one end of the tube, open it up and press the split tube over the edge of the frame cut-out.

Step (c) Move around the edge of the cut-out, presseing the tube home as you go, until the tube has completely covered the inside edge of the cut - out.

Picture 3 shows the finished job. Friction will hold the rubber on - but if you're a belt and braces man like me - you can add a little glue.

 

[Archie]

XLNT Idea Rodbox... nice finish too....shall do the same, better safe than shorting out.

 

[CibbyDoc]

Noice.......I Likey.

 

[rodbox5]

Completed Air Filter Box

This is the final part of the air filter mod where the snorkel intake is enlarged and protected against particle entry

First I enlarged the intake as far as possible with a keyhole saw, to allow an unrestricted air flow into the box - see photo 1.

I then cut out a cover plate to fit over the air box top - and cut out the intake square from the cover.

For the cover material I used the plastic base out of the bottom of an "eco-friendly" shopping bag - these are great for all sorts of projects.

This the intake hole on the cover was then covered with aluminium fly wire - see photo 2.

The fly wire was attached to the cover with the first side of some double sided tape - see photo 3.

The backing was peeled from the DS tape and the cover attached to the air box top. In addition to the tape, I also used screws and washers - but it was probably over-kill

Picture 4. shows the finished cover.

 

[CibbyDoc]

Goodwork Rod....What did you use for the new filter foam....or have you already posted that and I'm being lame?

 

[rodbox5]

I just bought good quality commercial filter foam from my local moto shop - and cut to fit the original fittings.

I then coated with Bel-Ray filter oil.

 

[$heepy]

ok then you guys. ive been interested in this thread ever since its started and have read basically every post.

now im lookin at the new hummers and the tomohawk kx's on ebay. now the thing i wanna know is how good are these bikes straight out of the box? because i will have no cash left after i get it to be able to buy anything for it. the only stuff that i would be able to do to it would be all the adjusting and tweaking with out buying new stuff. so what do guys reckon? do you think they are alrite out the box?

 

[FirsT TimeR]

hey fellas,

just wondering if anyone has had anything to do with putting harder fork oil in the front forks. Just wondering how to do it?
Oh and also can some one tell me if they know of some better rear springs available for this bike??

cheers.

 

[CibbyDoc]

ok then you guys. ive been interested in this thread ever since its started and have read basically every post.

now im lookin at the new hummers and the tomohawk kx's on ebay. now the thing i wanna know is how good are these bikes straight out of the box? because i will have no cash left after i get it to be able to buy anything for it. the only stuff that i would be able to do to it would be all the adjusting and tweaking with out buying new stuff. so what do guys reckon? do you think they are alrite out the box?

Hi Sheepy,

Mate I would say you can buy one of these and adjust some stuff (protect wiring, change brake-engine-fork oils, seal the airbox properly, mod the coil bracket, clean out the extra welding goop in the exhaust) and you would be right to go.

How hard you go is governed by what you have moded.

The boys will tell you I push mine pretty hard on the trail and hit the whoops on the track without mercy. The frame has been great. As stiff as my old 94 XR. The suspension has caused me some probs, but if I was 150mm taller it prob wouldnt.

If you ride moderatley these bikes are alright straight out of the box....with low budget mods (as above) there good, with a bit of money spent (not heaps but Larger rear sprocket - 52T is my reco, DID Chain, better grips, sport exhaust- still NOT sure about rejetting with these things yet, add grease nipples to swing arm pivots) you have the best value for money bike on the market is my guess.

But they sure do have different build quals.....If I was buying again I would seriously look at the Pitpro 250, heard great things about them but dont know peeps that have dedicated a whole thread with 20 odd pages to em.

If you are handy with a spanner then go for it....the motors in them seem very strong and reliable and the frame in general (as far a sI can tell ) is exlnt.

If you go for one you will lots of support from here anyways...but the new model that your looking at is a bit unknown to us....we would like to know it....but not heard from anyone with the4 new model YET.

Good luck hope I helped.

Doc

 

[CibbyDoc]

hey fellas,

just wondering if anyone has had anything to do with putting harder fork oil in the front forks. Just wondering how to do it?
Oh and also can some one tell me if they know of some better rear springs available for this bike??

cheers.

Hey First Timer,

I use a 7.5 weight oil in my dirt bikes, always have...gives me just the right damping (I'm 76kg).

I service my forks off the bike for ease and that way I dont damage anything on the bike.

1. Support the bike with the front wheel off the ground.

2. Remove brake calipers and support so there is no prressure placed on the hydraulics.

3. Remove the front wheel.

4. Remove Hex bolt under the foot of the forks (get on the ground and look up at the bottom of the forks - you'll see it). This is optional...if you want to do any internal adjustments etc you need to do this (the feet of the forks can now be removed) but for an oil change you dont need to take the feet off.

5. Remove the rebound adjuster knob on the top of the forks (small allen key grub screw in there).

6. Using a socket, loosen the fork caps, but DONT take them off yet.

7. Loosen all screws on the triple clamps and remove the forks. You might need to use a soft hammer to help push them out of the clamps....dont be harsh on them.

8. Support fork(s) in workmate or similiar (soft vise) to stop from falling over etc.

9. You can now remove the fork caps (they will be under a small amount of tension) and pour the oil out. Leave inverted for about 20 minutes so all the oil drains out. Be careful at this stage because you can NOW push the tube out of the seals (if you want too).

10. Reasembly is reverse of the above. Tighten to specs.

I use a workmate when the forks are out of the bike to hold them whilst I take the cap off and to generally stop them from getting scratched I cover the tubes in newspaper and masking tape also to protect the seals.

I refilled mine with 275ml of oil each leg which is what came out (there abouts).

Rod might have another way of doing that he can share?

Hope this helps mate.

Regs Doc