Going to try the new Hummer G4

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thanks mate ill give it ago tomorow o and btw where would i get that chain and around how much for?? thnaks agen
 
Hey guys
My mate has been convinced to buy one of these chinese wonders, he was so impressed with the marathon easter riding weekend he has decided to get one.
The bike he is getting is a Orion ProX the same as this:
2008 NEW GREEN ORION ProX 250cc DIRT BIKE PIT THUMPSTAR - eBay Other Trail Bikes, Trail Bikes, Motorcycles, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 04-Apr-08 17:30:00 AEST)

He is only 5'5" so he is getting the one with 19" and 16" wheels and in saying that he only weighs 62kg.
I am going to get it with him tomorrow so i will keep you all informed but by all accounts it looks like a beautiful bike nice frame etc.
The only thing i can see him having an issue with it states on the website for the bike that it only has a 3L fuel tank so i don't know how he will go on the longer rides especially if he puts a muffler on it etc, and also seeing that the old Kud Pro has a 6.5 litre tank he might have to have a fuel drop some where near where we ride.
 
Hi Weeg,

Wish I'd thought getting of one for my wife - this Cob & Co Link I purchased is proving to be a real dog of a bike and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

Let me know how it goes - I might donate the Link to charity and try the Orion.
 
I have the Atomik version of that bike ProX250, (AGB30)front shock are too soft and will bottom out, they are geared low for speed
I have put spacers in, heavier oil and added air in the bottom of the shocks but still soft, i have 17 front and 56 rear sprockets more torquey
I have had the bike since last october, got it rec regged, had to stamp a number on te frame as it doesnt have one, only a plate
Nothing has broken so far, like everyone else locktited everything and oiled and greased rear suspention
 
Hey Weeg - let me know if the front forks on the Orion are firm & adjustable (with clickers) - I may buy a set for the Link!
 
Hey boys
Well my mate got his ProX on the weekend and wow, the quality compared to the KUDA PRO is unbeliveable, Because we picked up the bike the carton was not damaged one little bit and therefore the bike inside was pristene as well.
The quality of the bike itself is great heaps better than the kuda pro and G4.
The only real thing is to note that it is definationly a MotoX bike, it has a tiny fuel tank, the bike is quite short you sit closer to the handle bars and it is definatly a different bike to ride. but i think i would definatly get one if i was looking for a bike at the moment.

Just another note i was talking to the importer when we picked this bike up and i asked him about the water cooloed versions (he had one in the show room) (a very nice bike as well) He said what we have all been saying if you do trail riding stay away from them the radiators are really weak and if you are riding 30-40km away from your starting point in the bush and you stack it you are gone because the radiators WILL be the first thing to hit the ground and the fact that they are weak as well it makes for a very long walk back to where you started from.

Rod the front forks are ok but i think they are a bit soft for guys of our weight but apparently you can space them quite easily with washers according to the importer, they are not adjustable either so you can't adjust rebound etc.
 
A new model plus incremental improvement - good to hear Weeg.

What aspects of the bike in particular impressed you as being better quality than the Hummer?

Shame about the suspension though - I think the forks and shocks must all be taken from Pit Bikes models. I suspect this bike has the same suspension components as the Link.
 
Hi guys just thought drop some info in on sprockets after purshasing 17T and 56T just received e-mail from Marlone Harris bataycancorp they are realising coloured sprockets soon didn't give a date but for those who like to match rim colours or bike colours would be good cheers!
 
Hey Rod
There is nothing that jumps out at you if you just look at the bike, but it is when you are assembling it thats when you notice stuff!

The frame and swing arm are great quality pressed tubular metal real close to looking like aluminimum.

All the electrics are up the front of the bike on the frame(the uprite tube from engine support) not above the rear tyre like ours where dirt / mud can get near it.

The battery is not on the side like ours but where all our electrics are above the rear tyre which is ok because it is not 100% needed anyway.

The brake and clutch controls are real nice they are benadble spring loaded levers so if you stack they SHOULD bend away (we will see).

The fuel tap is easy to get at it is not underneath the frame it is out in the open.

The plastics are stiffer and will not be so prone to cracking i think.

The rear brake lever seems to be sturdier.

But then other things are the same i.e the handle bars, gear lever, engine (push rod style), tyres, fuel cap,

Thats all i can think of right now but weather pending we should be going for a ride this Sat so i will let everyone know how that goes.
 
Hey all! I've just finished reading through all these posts and I think it'd be hard to express the thanks to everyone who contributed!!

I'm 18 and haven't ridden since I was 10 on a little ZR50..
I've just got my new Tomahawk KX 250, which by the sounds of it is almost the same as the G4, almost.. It has the OHC and I can't wait to have it run in! I have several things planned (sprockets, levers, handelbars, exhaust) but I will probably get to them when I've run the thing in..

Taken it for a few rides, goes well after the idle screw got adjusted (before it was stalling everytime I went to change down when I loosened the throttle).. I'm also a little short so I lowered the bike down the forks by about an inch.

The levers are very weak stock, I'm about to replace my clutch lever as it broke when I pulled it, not even that hard, when I was about to tension it.

Also, I was wondering.. In relation to drive ratios and sprocket sizes, most people seem to have either 15t + 48t or 16t + 56t.. I was thinking I still want little bit of my good top speed, with better acceleration, but I would like to reduce chain wear, so should 16t + 52t sprockets do alright for a ratio of 3.25?
 
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dropbear said:
Hi guys just thought drop some info in on sprockets after purshasing 17T and 56T just received e-mail from Marlone Harris bataycancorp they are realising coloured sprockets soon didn't give a date but for those who like to match rim colours or bike colours would be good cheers!
Click to expand...

Yeah - those guys are aiming to introduce a lot of new trick stuff over the coming months - including oversize motocross foot-pegs for the Hummer. Always worth catching up with them now & again - just to see what's happening.
 
(Quote)
"But then other things are the same i.e the handle bars, gear lever, engine (push rod style), tyres, fuel cap.

Thats all i can think of right now but weather pending we should be going for a ride this Sat so i will let everyone know how that goes.[/QUOTE]

Sounds great Weeg - funnily enough though, the Link has the new OHC engine! I expect the pro-x will be updated shortly, but in the meantime I guess we'll all be looking for upgraded and adjustable suspension components.

Like I said in the Link article - the concept of a smaller & lighter bike with a 250cc engine is good - but they need to improve on the kiddy suspension components - to allow for the short but heavy rider.
 
tornaido_3927 said:
Hey all! I've just finished reading through all these posts and I think it'd be hard to express the thanks to everyone who contributed!!

I'm 18 and haven't ridden since I was 10 on a little ZR50..
I've just got my new Tomahawk KX 250, which by the sounds of it is almost the same as the G4, almost.. It has the OHC and I can't wait to have it run in! I have several things planned (sprockets, levers, handelbars, exhaust) but I will probably get to them when I've run the thing in..

Taken it for a few rides, goes well after the idle screw got adjusted (before it was stalling everytime I went to change down when I loosened the throttle).. I'm also a little short so I lowered the bike down the forks by about an inch.

The levers are very weak stock, I'm about to replace my clutch lever as it broke when I pulled it, not even that hard, when I was about to tension it.

Also, I was wondering.. In relation to drive ratios and sprocket sizes, most people seem to have either 15t + 48t or 16t + 56t.. I was thinking I still want little bit of my good top speed, with better acceleration, but I would like to reduce chain wear, so should 16t + 52t sprockets do alright for a ratio of 3.25?
Click to expand...

Tornaido - it all depends on where you ride. If there aren't too many really steep hills and you ride a lot in open country - that combination of sprocket should be excellent. If however you ride short technical tracks with gruesome hills - then higher gearing makes things easier under those circumstances.

If you have both a 15 & 16 tooth front sprocket and say a 48 and 56 tooth rear in store - then you have enough flexibility to set up for just about any ride!
 
rodbox5 said:
Tornaido - it all depends on where you ride. If there aren't too many really steep hills and you ride a lot in open country - that combination of sprocket should be excellent. If however you ride short technical tracks with gruesome hills - then higher gearing makes things easier under those circumstances.

If you have both a 15 & 16 tooth front sprocket and say a 48 and 56 tooth rear in store - then you have enough flexibility to set up for just about any ride!
Click to expand...

Ah, interesting.. Sorry I should've specified the kinda riding I do! Well I'm not one for climbing gruesome hills on motobikes, I'd rather fly around tracks mixing it up between shot technical turns as well as longer ones, with a few jumps chucked in here and there..
Maybe I should opt for those 4 sprockets!
I do ride a fair bit in open country though, would that combination (16t & 52t) for the majority of my riding (if in open country) be alright if I were to do a few jumps here and there as well?? I don't know if sprocket size has any bearing on jumping or anything..

Thanks for the info rodbox!
 
After a little looking around, it seems apparent that a 52T rear is harder to get than I thought!! But of course.. To keep a similar drive ratio, I could do with a 56T and a 17T.. Or is that not wise? And on the bataycan site, the 17T sprocket listing says that a sports exhaust will be needed for extra power with the 17T, will it be essential if the drive ratio will only be 3.294 which is only a little higher than the 52 & 16 tooth one.. Cause I wasn't sure if that was only the case if you kept the stock rear sprocket which would put the ratio at 2.41*..
 
Mate - that would probably be o.k.

A larger sprocket on the front actually reduces strain on the chain and gearbox - but beyond a certain point is starts to mess with the intended gearing ratios of the box.

17T should still be O.K. although a cheaper option would be to keep the 15 tooth sprocket and get a 48 tooth rear - both Atomik & Tomohawk do a good price on a 48.
 
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Yeah that is true.. I'll just do that rather than upgrade the front sprocket, I'll just get a better quality chain to make up for it!!

Thanks for all your help.. Can't wait to get it all together!
 
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