Going to try the new Hummer G4

[matty_02]

Mate thats the exact same problem i'm having. Thanks so much!!
I actually thought about putting a washer in place although wasnt sure this was the right thing to do.

Rodbox, i'm thinking about following your lead and changing the sprockets. Did you also change the chain as well? If so could you supply me with an ebay link of some sort as to where i can purchase these?

Cheers
Matty

 

[rodbox5]

Mate thats the exact same problem i'm having. Thanks so much!!
I actually thought about putting a washer in place although wasnt sure this was the right thing to do.

Rodbox, i'm thinking about following your lead and changing the sprockets. Did you also change the chain as well? If so could you supply me with an ebay link of some sort as to where i can purchase these?

Cheers
Matty

Matty - these are some notes on setting up your chain and rear wheel which I did for somebody else earlier in the thread - these procedures should work pretty well. If you change your sprocket - you should really change your chain as well.

Expect your chain to loosen a little as the bike is ridden.

To tighten it:

1. Loosen the rear axle nut

2. At the rear of each swing arm close to the axle nut, find the wheel adjusters.

3. Depending upon which model Hummer you have, the wheel adjusters will either be a screw and locknut type - or a rotating toothed cam.

4 If you have a screw and locknut type - first loosen the locknut then start to undo the screw a little at a time. As you undo the screw, it forces the wheel backwards in the axle slot - thus tightening the chain. Make sure you undo the adjusting screw on each swing arm the same amount - so as to keep the wheel and axle evenly aligned.

4a - If you have the rotating toothed cam type - just rotate the cam to force the wheel backwards and thus tighten the chain. Opposite the cam's teeth you will see a metal pointer, which acts both as a reference mark and a tooth lock. This makes it easy to ensure that both wheel adjusting cams are set the same, since all you have to do is count the number of teeth to the pointer.

5. When the wheel and chain tension are set correctly (20mm - 25mm of free play), you can then re-tighten the axle nut. Note that the axle nut needs to be tightened to around 60 to 70Nm on the torque wrench - which is pretty tight. This level of torque can actally force the wheel back further in the slot than the adjusters are set - causing the chain to be too tight.

6. To stop this happening, fold a rag and jam it between the chain and the rear sprocket, by rolling the bike backards. This forces the wheel forwards onto the adjusters - thus ensuring the wheel remains in the correct position whilst the axle nut is re-tightened.

7. Roll the bike forwards to remove the rag - your chain tension should now be correct. If you lift the bottom of the chain with your finger (somewhere around the middle) you should ideally get about 20mm - 25mm of free play. Note that it is better to have your chain a little loose rather than too tight. A chain that is too tight will damage both itself and your sprockets in a real hurry.

Since you are asking this question, I'm assuming you haven't replaced your Chinese chain with a good quality alternative. If this is the case - I would strongly advise you to get a DID 428 NZ replacement chain ASAP. The Chinese chains don't last long - and a breaking chain at speed can be catastrophic and really scary.

If you have the toothed cam type wheel alignment system - be sure to use the rag to force the wheel against the cam lock when tightening the axle nut. Sometimes it looks O.K. - but close inspection will show that in tightening the axle nut, you've actually pulled the wheel away from the cam lock. The rag will stop this happening.

I bought my DID chain from my local Honda shop for $75. You can get them on e-bay for about $35 - but by the time you pay freight, you may as well have gone to your local store.

47 tooth sprockets are available from Tomahawk or Atomik.

56 & 16 tooth sprockets are available from Bataycan on Philippines e-bay.

The address is listed earlier in this thread. These guys do a lot of good gear - so you might want to list it in your favourites.

 

[matty_02]

Hey Rod,

Thanks alot mate. Sorry for repeating questions which have already been answered. Its just hard to go through this thread now to find if your question has been answered previously.

I'll be buying a washer ASAP and getting this sorted. I really need to line things up properly, and get rid of the chain noise its making. Makes my bike sounds dodgy! I'll be replacing the chain soon also, probably once i've ran the motor in! I'll let you know how it all goes

1 other question, when i've got the bike up on a stand with the back wheel off the floor. If i lift the swing arm should it NOT move at all? Because at the moment it does move, guessing about 10cms up and down. Whereas my mate bought an Atomik Fury and his doesnt budge at all.

Look forward to ur response.
Thanks again
Matty

 

[rodbox5]

Matty,

It's OK to have a little play in the swing arm - this is usually a result of taking up a little of the spring travel distance by applying pre-load.

10cm seems a little much though - mine only has about 4-5 cms.

Your mate's Fury probably has no pre-load applied to the spring.

If you look at the following link - it shows you how to set up the suspension correctly:

Tuning guide motocross Offroad suspension:

Doing this properly makes a world of difference to how your bike handles.

 

[tornaido_3927]

Thanks for that rodbox, much appreciated!

Sorry to bother you again though, but I was out riding today and that little rubber thing that sits on the swing arm which the chain rubs against (i dont know what its called) has fallen apart and fell off in my paddock.. Now the chain is griding away at the swing arm and I was wondering if its possible to replace this or if its better to just make it a little DIY job to stick something there to stop the chain rubbing on the swing arm?

 

[rodbox5]

You definitely need to replace it - but a home made job will do fine.

Just get a piece of heavy duty rubber rubber from your hardware store and cut to shape. Then glue it on with a good quality contact cement.

If you later get a big 56 tooth sprocket, it increases the angle of the chain and it therefore won't rub as much.

 

[kstevo]

I wanna get a G4 and join the crew, great absolutely unbelieveable thred btw well done to all especially rod, but does anyone know whats goin on with DreamRider? Are they in the process of restocking or have they just closed there G4 distribution??

 

[rodbox5]

Mate I see what you mean! Maybe this thread has run them out of stock - haha

I'd drop them a line and ask, but I'm sure they'll get new stock. If they don't - I might take up a dealership myself!

You can buy the same bike from Atomik - under the name of Kuda Pro. These have the previous model EVO II engine - but that's what I have and it runs fine.

 

[dropbear]

Hi guys just drop in with sort message about bataycancorp my sprockets arrived 7 days after placing order. Have try them yet as old man been ill try and get out this weekend cant wait.

 

[kstevo]

I havnt got a reply back from DreamRider yet regarding the Hummers, looks like yas may very well have run them outta stock You heard anything yet Rod?

Hey, whats the suspension is like on them? Can they handle the odd jump or two without ya arms being pushed outta their sockets? Or would ya say they're more the trial type of bike? One other thing, the power on them? How is it? Does it have enough to easily put you in a mono in 2nd gear? What about 3rd?

 

[rodbox5]

They've got full on motocross suspension and will handle a rider up to about 85Kgs without bottoming out - except on the hardest jumps. For my money I recon they're pretty damn good. Full preload, rebound and compression adjustments are provided on the rear shock - and rebound clickers are included with the forks.

I weigh 102Kgs - so mine did struggle a little at the beginning.

On the front forks I replaced the Chinese fluid with Castrol fork oil 5 and added about 50mls extra - which was enough to firm things up with increased damping. On the rear shock I managed to buy a custom progressive spring from my local motocross suspension outfit. It cost over a ton - but the end result is brilliant!

 

[rodbox5]

I took the Hummer for a ride on the week-end at a new location.

The area had a long fast straight (3Kms) and this was the first time I'd opened up the bike up all the way.

I must say with the 56 tooth rear sprocket - I could have done with another gear up top.

I reached about 100kph easily and in a hurry - but the engine was flat chat and a sixth gear would have been perfect.

I'd say if you do a lot of riding in areas with long straights - coming down to a 48 tooth sprocket (or setting up a second wheel with one) would make good sense.

 

[matty_02]

Hey Rod,

I'm still running in the engine, so havent had the chance to open her up! Can't wait though!!

How did the bike go overall, still running ok? I had mine out over the weekend on a bumpy dirt road. Sounded very rattly, i think i need to play around with the suspension to get it right.

Any chance of posting some pics of your hummer? Or everyone else posting pics of theirs. Would be good to see how they're all looking.

Cheers
Matty

 

[rodbox5]

Matty.
The bike went bloody well and was a comfortable ride over ground. All in all I'm very pleased.

The only problem I had was the electric start packing it in - but this just turned out to be a blown relay fuse - easily fixed.

As I said though - a sixth gear would have been great on a long fast straight!

If you're rattling when traversing bumpy ground - then check the following:
1. Your plastic lower fork guards may be loose
2. You need to have some pre-load set on your rear shock, so as to get the correct race sag & free sag on your suspension. With no pre-load set, the spring will rattle around when the load is taken off the swing arms.
3. Check your rear wheel and chain alignment is O.K. This can also cause rattles if mis-aligned. Look for wear on one side of the sprocket - and check that the sprocket teeth align evenly with the centre of the chain - and not on one side.

 

[Ingleburn]

Anyone seen 1 of these. 15KW+150 -250CC HUMMER BIKES QUADS PERFORMANCE MANUAL - eBay Media, Motorcycles, Clothing, Merchandise, Media, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 01-May-08 23:04:35 AEST)
Wonder if they read this thread and wrote the tips you guys give into a book

 

[tornaido_3927]

Hey, I'm not sure if the G4's have this, but on my KX there is a little cylindrical rubber thing on a hose, coming vertically out of the crank case.. I can hear it bumping around down there when I ride (though I have secured it since then). My mate reckons its a crank case breather, but I'm not sure.. Can anyone shed some light? I just got worried because I wasnt sure if it was supposed to be connected to anything..

 

[Thunderlips]

Anyone seen 1 of these. 15KW+150 -250CC HUMMER BIKES QUADS PERFORMANCE MANUAL - eBay Media, Motorcycles, Clothing, Merchandise, Media, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 01-May-08 23:04:35 AEST)
Wonder if they read this thread and wrote the tips you guys give into a book

Didn't someone post the pdf a little earlier in the thread?

 

[Ingleburn]

If they did I must have missed it.Might go back a few pages and check.

 

[Jaz808]

Yes the hose with the little black bottle thingy is a breather

 

[Weegee]

Well guys I will be away for 3 weeks I have to go to Italy/Hungary for work
Hopefully by the time i get back the wrist will good and i will be able to hit the trails again I am really interested to see how my new sprokets go.
Anyway keep up the good work boys I will keep reading while I am away.

P.S by the time I get back I want to know how to get another 25HP out of the engine on the Kuda Pro that can be everyones homework while I am away