Going to try the new Hummer G4

[rodbox5]

I think we may be giving Dreamrider an easy ride - if you'll excuse the pun.

If you think about it, they sold every bike they advertised on e-bay - and at a comparitively high price, based on the fact that they were supposed to be OHC models.

I looked at their feedback sales history and on average they've sold these bikes for around $1350 a piece - that's well over the odds for a Chinese dirt bike. Not to mention they are the most expensive shippers in Australia for dirt bikes.

Cibbie - you're lucky they are offering you parts - because everybody else I've spoken to is getting sweet F/A in compensation.

I therfore think it only right to forward a complaint to e-bay - and I've sent mine today.

That said - I'm pretty happy with the bike's construction and anyway, all may not be lost.

I'm planning to fit a hot OHC engine from Bataycan - but am waiting to hear if it will bolt directly into a pushrod bed without too many hassles.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.

 

[Archie]

Hi all,

I was basically told the same thing. Dreamrider are struggling to stay in business but help out with some parts for those that feel wrong done by.

My No (that I assumed was a frame number) is located on the steering head housing - stamped inn. Starts with an "LD6Y" number.

So my VIN is this plus the engine model number....Yes?

Allied...It dosnt seem too promising. I tried to get a promise of a similiar price if I purchase a new one off them within 12 months and even that was too hard (Son talking about buying one).

Going with my son to Pacific Park and camping till saturday. So that should see the beast completely run in now...will let you know how it goes. Have a safe and happy christmas all.

Cheers Doc

Your frame number is your VIN and the ZS167FMM + numbers under the engine is "The engine number"

Merry Christmas to all.

 

[Archie]

I think we may be giving Dreamrider an easy ride - if you'll excuse the pun.

If you think about it, they sold every bike they advertised on e-bay - and at a comparitively high price, based on the fact that they were supposed to be OHC models.

I looked at their feedback sales history and on average they've sold these bikes for around $1350 a piece - that's well over the odds for a Chinese dirt bike. Not to mention they are the most expensive shippers in Australia for dirt bikes.

Cibbie - you're lucky they are offering you parts - because everybody else I've spoken to is getting sweet F/A in compensation.

I therfore think it only right to forward a complaint to e-bay - and I've sent mine today.

That said - I'm pretty happy with the bike's construction and anyway, all may not be lost.

I'm planning to fit a hot OHC engine from Bataycan - but am waiting to hear if it will bolt directly into a pushrod bed without too many hassles.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Hi Rod, just topped the baby up with fresh castrol active 4 oil as you use and recommend and she puurrrrrssssssss. Starts up and gets into idle much quicker than the other oil,sounds great with less tappet noise, found and cleaned the screen, but didn't go as far as the filter....it's internal but how and where is it? Another dahhhhhhh ???the manual sucks as u know, anyhow merry xmas to ya and thank you for the great input and help as always.

 

[rodbox5]

I'm going to take a few photos over the next day of so and paste them on this thread, to show my bike and some of the mods I've completed.

Maybe all the Hummer owners could do the same - and since there seems to be a fair number of us, use this thread as a Hummer owner's general goss & tech page.

 

[Archie]

I'm going to take a few photos over the next day of so and paste them on this thread, to show my bike and some of the mods I've completed.

Maybe all the Hummer owners could do the same - and since there seems to be a fair number of us, use this thread as a Hummer owner's general goss & tech page.

Sounds like a great idea Rod,I guess we are all alone as far as dreamrider goes, so all the help and input from ourselves shall have to do. I'll get a few pics sorted out on the lighting and switchbox setup for the rec reg.

 

[rodbox5]

OK - Here's my Hummer:

http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1210&stc=1&d=1199165791

Here's the 56 tooth rear sprocket I fitted along with a DID chain:

http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1211&stc=1&d=1199165791

Here's a 14mm x 1,5 tpi castellated axle nut and pin I fiited, as a more secure alternative to the original Cinese fastener:

http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1212&stc=1&d=1199165791

This shows where the sprocket nuts were catching on the back of the swing arm, when the axle nut was tightened to the recommended 60Nm:

http://www.miniriders.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1213&stc=1&d=1199165791

To fix the problem, I put a 16mm stainless washer over the axle shaft, between the side of the swing arm and the sprocket side wheel spacer you can see in the photo. This mod also centered up the sprocket in the chain - which was an added bonus.

 

[bLaDeY]

It doesn't look as though the attachment links are working. I'm looking forward to them

 

[CibbyDoc]

Hey Guys,

Rod....great idea. Your attachments no worky. Try photobucket.com works for me.

These bikes MUST be getting very popular as even Motoxtrail.com are making sticker kits for them...nice too...check em out.

It appears Dreamrider are done and dusted...no reply emails lately at all. Atomic are now selling this model so I have made an inquiry about spares support.

I ride pretty hard on this bike as I am used to bigger hondas and yam so I guess I am bound to have some problems and have.

Some of the common ones are:

1: Fork tube protectors are too long and on full compression (over ruts and jumps) will hit the front fender and crack it...pain when riding..makes a loud noise too.
BROKEN BRAKELINE BRACKET - FORK PROTECTOR HITS IT
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/FrontBrakelineBracket.jpg
BROKEN FENDER FROM FORK PROTECTOR HIT
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/CrackedFender.jpg
DAMAGE FROM FORK PROTECTOR HITTING FENDER
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/ForkProtectorDamage.jpg

2: Wire loom conectors are somewhat a loose fit, especially the ones under the tank that lead to the coil. In muddy conditions and river crossings will get wet and mudcaked and cause bike to misfire badly. Suggest waterproofing with good insulation tape....this problem caused me a lot of pain and I stripped the carb and cleaned it before I picked up on it. Checking the connections made no difference as it lets SO much water and dirt in. (WILL GET SOME PHOTOS SOON OF THIS)

3: Air filter box is too tight/short for length (tube that connects air intake on carb to airbox) and can cause seperation from the airbox. I made up a bracket and moved it forward 15mm to solve the problem. Its a ***** airbox and we prob need an alternative filter in it as when I cleaned my carb the air intakes where filthy....the filter is NOT pre oiled, so be warned and oil prior to riding...I just use 2 stroke oil and have for 30 years with great results or you can use these fancy new spray on oils (which are prob just diluted 2 stroke oil anyway).
BRACKET INSTALLED INTO AIRBOX
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/AirboxBracket.jpg

4: On full compression (over jumps, climbing river banks, log crossing - which it does well actually, etc) the rear wheel rubs against the exhaust bracket.....gives you afright at first. Then you get used to it.
RUB AREA ON EXHAUST BRACKET
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/ExhaustBracketTyreRub.jpg

5: Rear brakeline rubs on tyre over ruts etc and wears the line and the rough braided brakline actually wears away the frame as you can see in the photo. As yet I cant find a solution to this but it really needs to be sorted...any ideas? I WAS THINKING OF PERHAPS TURNING THE BANJO AROUND SO TH LINE STICKS OUT RATHER THAN IN.
WEAR ON REAR BRAKELINE

6: Adjusters on rear shock inaccessible whilst riding. I have not been able to find a screwdriver with a small enough angle to ne able to adjust these settings which control rebound and damping....pain more than anything.
REBOUND ADJUSTER

DAMPING ADJUSTER - I THINK?

7: The frame at the front base of the motor has 2 open square section steel tubes which let in tonnes of water. Fine when riding as it will drain out the back of the tubes but when back at camp and it rains the angle of the bike on the stand lets the water sit in the tube...not that great an idea for frame integrity. I sealed it with some silicone.
FRAME WATER TRAP
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/ambodoc/FrameWaterTrap-1.jpg


Thats about it for now. Anything else from a ride tomorrow and I'll post.

Cheers Doc

 

[rodbox5]

Hi folks,

My pictures got wiped off my mini-riders attachment board - reason unknown.

I've tried it again to see if it works - Please let me know if it doesn't.

 

[Wildman]

Great info,will have to make a few changes to mine.
Have only had it out once so far but it seems quite good.

 

[rodbox5]

There seems to be some build variation from bike to bike.

On mine, the front brake line clamp is further up the forks - although the fork protector would hit the front guard at maximum travel. I should think that trimming a bit off the tops of the fork guards should do the trick and avoid damage.

At the back, my armoured brake line is longer and snakes outwards - well away from the wheel - so I don't have the same problem.

I'm actually intending to modify the air cleaner, since the way it's set up robs you of power -I'll let you know how it works out.

I think these bikes are built out of available parts, rather than being purpose designed, - but a little tinkering will get us there.

I think CibbyDoc must be an adrenilin junky to push his bike that far - but it's good to know the frame will more or less take it lol.

Keep the faith boys!

 

[CibbyDoc]

Hahaha......No adrenaline junkie here mate....just like to ride hard, always have.

Have found another issue after a pretty full on session today.

Bike started to lose power and die like a fouled plug. Pissed me off heaps...then the bike would start at idle but not accelerate, felt like fuel, but I knew it couldnt be, I had just cleaned the carb. Anyway pushed it back to camp and changed a rather carboned up plug.

Long and short of it....after 5 days of riding ruts, the coil (which sits too close to the frame) had a wear spot in the high tension lead and was earthing out on the frame.

I bent the 2 prongs for the metal bracket of the coil into and "S" shape and spaced it out with 2 washers and re insulated the HT lead and all good now.

Rod....your right for sure. These bikes are not designed..but rather high end PIT bikes. But I can tell you this for sure "THE FRAME IS BULLET PROOF....I WILL GUARANTEE IT". The paint aint so hot and will req touch up sprays to keep the rust off....but frame strength is as good as any Honda I have ridden/jumped.

I should have most of the bugs worked out soon....but may need another bike after I do...LOL

 

[Archie]

Hi there ppls, for those that are looking to rec reg their bike in vic, it’s easy as they require bare minimal add on. Here is their website for more info Recreational motorcycle registration : VicRoads
One of the difficulties I found was the switch box, as it interfered with the clutch lever as it would not fully close to disengage the clutch. I managed to work around that by shaving the square block to the extreme where the clutch screw adjuster resides. Turning the screw all the way in gave me the room for a functional clutch.

 

[Archie]

Single square light with hi-low beam wired to work both stages, wasn’t fussed about the face colour as it sorta blends in with the black fuel tank.

 

[Archie]

Rear fender required bending by tying up the outmost edges by the plate holder with some wire, pulling it back towards the frame to bring the rear led 3 in one tail light to eye level. By warming the fender with a hand torch I shaped it taking care I didn’t get too close to discolour or burn the fender. Any excess buckle in the fender can then be shaved away by a sharp knife or filed down to make it look natural

 

[Archie]

Horn situated right behind the light, bolted onto the alan key screw that’s readily available. I wired that directly to the battery as opposed to the lighting going thru a 15amp fuse. Bike running, lights on and horn blasting away I saw no degrading in the charging system with perfect idle even with the ****** spark plug.
Rear brake light controlled by the front brake lever switch and plate with tail light controlled by the switch box.

 

[Archie]

Finally the mirror that will swivel back into the bike so as you can race thru the scrub without damaging it. I am booked in for inspection on the 08/01/ and will bring everyone up to date on how I went.

Cheers

 

[CibbyDoc]

Archie....thats cool mate.

If you dont mind...what that set you back and did you buy it as a kit or parts....?

A solution to the switch problem could be to use a standard Honda XR250-400-600 clutch lever (brake lever fits as well) which is about $15 from your local Honda dealer.

Also there is a 4 pin plug situated on the left inside of the frame, low near the swing arm, that is powered on. Would be a good spot to power your lights from. I suspect it is there for that purpose in China (as in bikes registered in China).

Looks the goods mate....enjoy.

Doc

 

[Jaz808]

Hey Archie did you wire up your foot brake to work the brake light i did when i rec regged a Atomik ProX 250 at Greensbrough Vic Roads, and she didnt even check, only prob i had was the frame was not stampped, so i had to stamp it with a VR number they gave me

 

[Jaz808]

There is a Dirt Bike Wreckers in Altona Melb that sell NEW mirrors, lights ect pretty cheap
Just Dirt Bikes Motorcycle Wreckers Secondhand Bikes