Help with Apollo 125cc Pit bike

[Nicknackzz13]

Hey yall, new here, but i just got an Apollo 125cc pit bike today brand new from dealership, low balled the guy and got 100 off for it,.. i guess it wasnt cranked in awhile so it was hard to start but the dealer got it started and had a go and it was fairly hard to keep it idling.. so im asking for some help with the best set up for the carb idle and mixture screws..

if i tighten them all the way in, how many turns outwards is best for the carbs set up?

thanks and anything else i should know to make it start easier and keep the carb running good..:laughing-smiley-002

 

[Cordogs]

Give the jets a good clean out before you start winding screws mate.


It could be as simple upping the idle or a partially blocked jet!



Two turns out from all the way in is usually a good starting point, just make sure you check a few other things first.

Fuel inlet blockage
Blocked jets
Incorrect valve clearances

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Thanks man, ill try these tmo and see if it makes a difference with starting etc.. its brand spanking new and the dealer got it started, i hope it aint much cause i dont wanna have to bring the bike back to the shop but if it comes to it then i guess ill have too.. thanks for the help and answer, if anyone else out there has any opinions throw em in too!!


thanks! gonna try these tmo

 

[Blender]

yea, some bikes when they come from the manufacturer will have some plastic shavings left over in the tank. its possible these could cause a blocked jet. give the jets a good blow out with compressed air, adjust your idle/mixture screws and you should be good to go

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Help with Apollo 125 carb

Hey yall, i recently purchased an apollo 123cc crf70 sized framed pit bike, and i wanna take the carb apart every now and again to clean it and unblock the jets.. only problem im having is that under the carb where you unscrew it to get into the main and pilot jet, there is no screws? lol they are screws with no screw end? like no star or flathead shape its just smooth metal so i dont know how to take them off? do i need a special tool or what!!

i have a picture of what i mean...i think the picture is attached if not ill reattach it

anyone know how to remove these screws? so i can clean and mess with the carb.. i want to unblock my jets for sure.. or should i have to buy a new carb?

 

[unit1]

Just buy a oko24mm or oko26mm
Save yourself the f__k around

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Yeah i agree with that lol, any idea what the measurements would be for it? so i know which size to get or will i have to measure the carb?

 

[Nicknackzz13]

I measured my carb while it was connected to the bike between the carb and the carbs manifold and it was around 40mm ?? is that correct or am i measuring it wrong :/

cause if im gonna buy a new carb i wanna make sure i order the right size.. the bike is an apollo 125 crf70 frame

 

[my67xr]

So is it something like this ?

I would be fitting the commonly used Mikuni 22mm copy like this

check the opening size of the manifold, like this but on the intake, needs to be 26mm, and the bolt pattern to mount the carby from centre across to centre of the holes is usually 48mm, but check to be sure

check the inlet size too for the air filter

these are aftermarket mixture screws, if you fit one of them it will make tuning a lot easier
tboltusa.com have them

or you could fit a manifold spinner to turn the carby to make it easy to tune, then once it's set up turn it back or leave it.

and don't forget to get a decent filter, and some filter oil too

 

[my67xr]

Hey yall, i recently purchased an apollo 123cc crf70 sized framed pit bike, and i wanna take the carb apart every now and again to clean it and unblock the jets.. only problem im having is that under the carb where you unscrew it to get into the main and pilot jet, there is no screws? lol they are screws with no screw end? like no star or flathead shape its just smooth metal so i dont know how to take them off? do i need a special tool or what!!
i have a picture of what i mean...i think the picture is attached if not ill reattach it
anyone know how to remove these screws? so i can clean and mess with the carb.. i want to unblock my jets for sure.. or should i have to buy a new carb?

Yeah i know the bolts you are talking about, sheer bolts
They are done up in the factory and when they reach a certain tension the head sheers off leaving you with a round head, with no slot for a screwdriver etc

You might be able to drill the sheer bolts out with a 1/8th drill, and use an easy out or similar (turn it anticlockwise to undo), most hardware shops keep them.
Sometimes you can get them out with decent pliers too

Or you could try slotting the screw heads with a Dremel cutting tool and undoing them with a flat headed screwdriver.

 

[Blender]

Wait, so they come the factory with the screw heads sheared off? on purpose ?

Why?

 

[my67xr]

Yeah, mainly on the older Keihin 17mm and 19mm copys with the rounded fuel bowls, made by JinKe, ShengWey, etc.
So you don't play with it and mess up the float settings i guess ?
Or so you take it to a dealer to fix ?

 

[Blender]

wow, its a bit like those "Anti-Tampering" nuts and bolts you see on some new cars now. manufacturers dont like people doing things themselves, i guess they just want you to pay to get it fixed :/

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Yeah man its a Jinkie carb i think, ive saw Jinkie somewhere on my bike so i guess it is a jinkie carb with those weird bolts, i was thinking of somehow grinding them down a bit and using a flathead to get them off.. another weird thing is too, i cant seem to find the damn mixture screw? i think i found it today but it has a bolt like those on the damn carb as well so i cnt turn it to see if it is the mixture or not, its away up under the bike... i have pictures of my bike carb and everything but i have no idea how to post pics???? lol

 

[Nicknackzz13]

the carb screws

the bike itself

another one fof those damn screws on the throttle housing part

can barely take thre carb off, so could someone help with the size of carb i can buy & throttle cable type? with links perhaps to where to buy (im new in the USA, originally from ireland)

 

[Nicknackzz13]

the air filter also has a long tubing onto it which goes into a clear tube that is squeezy, then into the engine..

might be able to see it in this picture if you zoom in

 

[Nicknackzz13]

25mm Carburetor w/Hand Choke Lever for 125cc 4-stroke ATVs, Dirt Bikes & Go Kart

wouldn this carb fit my Apollo ADG37 bike?? or is it too big/small?

im clueless about this bike lol

 

[dinoanthonyalai]

Just recently purchased an Apollo 2019 125cc I added some performance mods such as 26m PWK carburetor and aftermarket mini evo big gun full exhaust kit to the bike I had to do a little modifying to fit nicely but the carb isn’t running at it’s full potential and I would need some advice or some help who could help me out on getting the air mixture right the main jet sizing and needle adjustment sizing I believe is the problem any help please

 

[EVOLUTIONenthusiast]

wow, its a bit like those "Anti-Tampering" nuts and bolts you see on some new cars now. manufacturers dont like people doing things themselves, i guess they just want you to pay to get it fixed :/

Your right. The other reason is to save money in manufacturing. On something like the float bowl, the bolts need a specific and equal amount of torque. Instead of using complex fastener machines to torque them simultaneously, or pay a human to do it with a torque wrench, they use fasteners that break at a certain torque, thus removing any skill or expensive machine normally required for a job like that.

Im a civil engineer by trade, and i can assure you that parts are designed to meet a group of requirements and no more. It usually has to last for a predetermined time (usually just after warranty), perform at a level on par with competitors, cost as little as possible to manufacture, and be as simple as possible and/or modular, in able to make spare parts manufacturing or unit amount cheap and time efficient. Notice ease of repair isnt part of the requirements.

As long as they can make a lot of them cheap, fast, and sell them at the highest possible profit, while ensuring they last until warranty expires, theyre happy for the most part. Of course there is a legality aspect. They obviously need the product to conform to acceptable levels of safety, in order to minimize litigation.

Basically, if you ever want to figure out why something seems to be designed in a non-logical way, just think about how you would go about manufacturing it in the most cost and time effective way. Then you'll get your answer.