Help with pet**** tank mount

[Nicknackzz13]

got a 2014 apollo abg/adr not sure cause the manual thingy says ADR..anyways it looks like when i turn the pet**** to on (turn to ON for fuel) sometimes i lil will leak out as you can feel and smell it on your fingers.. or if you pull it out hard enough itll seep threw the switch you move to on off or reserve.. how do i fix this??? i have a picture of the simliaer pet**** one to mine with the same ****ty screws, any good techniques on how to remove the screws?.. or anything i can use to help this???


also i think my valve clerances are too loose, when i rev it high itll sound like a rev limiter but it isnt.. is it alright to ride? it rides fine with good power, just if u fully rev it not in gear itll make a weird noise, or should i just got ahead and tightend them a bit? i got the valves at .003inlet % .004 exhaust (or its .002 inlet & a .003 exhaust) unsure of which it is as i never wrote it down...

 

[my67xr]

You might be able to loosen the screws with some decent pliers, before you strip the slots out the head of them.
They are only screwed into alloy though, and are not usually that tight
I have fixed a couple of my leaking taps that are the same as yours.
I took the outer plate off by removing the screws, then took the tap off the tank, next i filed back the alloy section, keeping the file square to the face, i took about 1mm of alloy off, then reassembled it.
There were no leaks afterwards


When you rev it high and it sounds like a rev limiter, that's the valves bouncing off their seats eg; Valve Bounce.
It isn't good if you keep doing it, something will end up breaking.
It's probably the exhaust or bash plate vibrating that's making the noise.

 

[Nicknackzz13]

You might be able to loosen the screws with some decent pliers, before you strip the slots out the head of them.
They are only screwed into alloy though, and are not usually that tight
I have fixed a couple of my leaking taps that are the same as yours.
I took the outer plate off by removing the screws, then took the tap off the tank, next i filed back the alloy section, keeping the file square to the face, i took about 1mm of alloy off, then reassembled it.
There were no leaks afterwards


When you rev it high and it sounds like a rev limiter, that's the valves bouncing off their seats eg; Valve Bounce.
It isn't good if you keep doing it, something will end up breaking.
It's probably the exhaust or bash plate vibrating that's making the noise.

Hey man! yeah i agree i think ill adjust them again and see how she sounds... i hate revving the bike high or riding it if i hear it sounds abnormal so i gotta make sure its running good!.. plus i miss riding so i want a quick fix so i can get out there and ride!!

anyways, i was thinking of trying to take them off easy and then griding them downwith a saw about a mm or so to a flathead screwdriver can fit it so i can tighten it up every now and again and add some thread lock too im just worried incase i end up breaking the screws, im sure i may have some tiny screws laying around that will fit in there as a replacment if the hole..threads are the same size/shape for it... i hope so! ill give this a go tmo and get back with the results, not much of a leak just a little bit every now and again,ill give it a go anyways and hopefully i fix it correctly i gotta be careful and watch what im doing but yeah man thanks for the info, had to ask Q's before i start to fiddle with the bike, i wanna be safe than sorry cause parts dont grow on trees! lol!!

ill reply with results as soon as i get them!


finally got my carb gasket today and put it on and its fine.. also added a nice chain and roller new kicker shifter and a few other bits, nice tight chain which is about 1/half fingers loose and rides good...

bike is looking good,

 

[Nicknackzz13]

You might be able to loosen the screws with some decent pliers, before you strip the slots out the head of them.
They are only screwed into alloy though, and are not usually that tight
I have fixed a couple of my leaking taps that are the same as yours.
I took the outer plate off by removing the screws, then took the tap off the tank, next i filed back the alloy section, keeping the file square to the face, i took about 1mm of alloy off, then reassembled it.
There were no leaks afterwards


When you rev it high and it sounds like a rev limiter, that's the valves bouncing off their seats eg; Valve Bounce.
It isn't good if you keep doing it, something will end up breaking.
It's probably the exhaust or bash plate vibrating that's making the noise.

Hey man! yeah i agree i think ill adjust them again and see how she sounds... i hate revving the bike high or riding it if i hear it sounds abnormal so i gotta make sure its running good!.. plus i miss riding so i want a quick fix so i can get out there and ride!!

anyways, i was thinking of trying to take them off easy and then griding them downwith a saw about a mm or so to a flathead screwdriver can fit it so i can tighten it up every now and again and add some thread lock too im just worried incase i end up breaking the screws, im sure i may have some tiny screws laying around that will fit in there as a replacment if the hole..threads are the same size/shape for it... i hope so! ill give this a go tmo and get back with the results, not much of a leak just a little bit every now and again,ill give it a go anyways and hopefully i fix it correctly i gotta be careful and watch what im doing but yeah man thanks for the info, had to ask Q's before i start to fiddle with the bike, i wanna be safe than sorry cause parts dont grow on trees! lol!!

ill reply with results as soon as i get them!


finally got my carb gasket today and put it on and its fine.. also added a nice chain and roller new kicker shifter and a few other bits, nice tight chain which is about 1/half fingers loose and rides good...

bike is looking good, View attachment 11194
View attachment 11195
View attachment 11196

 

[Nicknackzz13]

ahh yeah and another thing i forgot to add in my last reply!!

when i was revving her, i noticed a bit of oil splattered over the front of the bash plate under the exhaust valve cover, i took it off and retightend it and checked the rubber gasket and all is well.. first time i seen this.. cant figure out what it is/happened bike hasnt been rode since my carb gasket went and before than the bike was grand..


any ideas?


may have had it on wrong or something stupid but im not too sure on that, cause ive always checked my parts and screws and everything before and after riding so i dont lose something with vibration or loose parts fall off while riding!

 

[my67xr]

Be carefull with that tap and tank connection too, try not to move it excessively.
I recently had to replace a tank/tap like that, the nut that the tap screws onto inside the tank pulled out the plastic tank

The one i replaced it with is this style, much better i reckon.
Gas Tank Petcock Honda XR50 CRF50 XR CRF 50 SDG SSR Pit Bike I GT01 | eBay

it uses this style tap-

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Be carefull with that tap and tank connection too, try not to move it excessively.
I recently had to replace a tank/tap like that, the nut that the tap screws onto inside the tank pulled out the plastic tank

The one i replaced it with is this style, much better i reckon.
Gas Tank Pet**** Honda XR50 CRF50 XR CRF 50 SDG SSR Pit Bike I GT01 | eBay

it uses this style tap-

hey man, i like your gas tank switch it looks better than stock, mines has them damn anti tamper screws, tried to trim a little line threw it for a flathead and it wouldnt work it was just chipping away at the metal when i used the screwdriver so i left it tightend the pet**** in the tank nice and easy and it seems to be fine now, i have a video of the way my bike is sounding, i adjusted the valves and everything seems fine, still making a limiter type noise or chuggy/boggy noise when full throttle revving so i didnt wanna damage anything so i turned it off, it rides good and stays on good, snowing here so i had to warm it up a bit im beginning to think i have a air leak which is what may be causing the noise??? ill have to go over the engine sometime and carb/manifold and look for leaks... sometime ill order a better pet**** tank screw for the bike with actual screws so i can tighten and loosen them, my tank is metal and big so it wont tear or rip like the plastic tanks but they can bend and break easily if fallen!


i guess i got a air leak the only way i can show you what the bike sounds like is from a video of someones bike sounding somewhat the same as mine on youtube, i found this video, this is sort of what it sounds like but not as bad.. itll make the weird EEEHhheeeehHHEEEHHH every few seconds not constantly
heres the video of the guys bike that sorta sounds like mine when at full throttle..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mAoUkc8oMQ


by the way dude do you have a facebook??

 

[Nicknackzz13]

but the thing with mine is there is no gas or oil spitting out anywhere, like the guy in that youtube video..

unsure of what it could be, just possible air leak? maybe with the gaskets conencting manifold and carb gaskets but i just replaced them and i have some extra

 

[my67xr]

Try spraying all the joins on the carby to manifold, manifold to head with carby cleaner, degreaser, wd40 etc while it's running.
If the idle speed changes in any way then there is your vacuum leak
even spray the cable boot on top of the carby, air might be getting in there too ?

The carby mounting face's can warp if you have over tightened the bolt/nut
But they are easy enough to fix if something is warped.
Just use a hard sanding block and a piece of 320 w&d paper, rub the face across it and look at the scratch marks it leaves on the mounting face.
if they are just on the side's/outer edge then it is warped.
You'll need to keep sanding it until the face is flat again.
make sure you hold the carby of manifold square on the to sanding block too when sanding.

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Try spraying all the joins on the carby to manifold, manifold to head with carby cleaner, degreaser, wd40 etc while it's running.
If the idle speed changes in any way then there is your vacuum leak
even spray the cable boot on top of the carby, air might be getting in there too ?

The carby mounting face's can warp if you have over tightened the bolt/nut
But they are easy enough to fix if something is warped.
Just use a hard sanding block and a piece of 320 w&d paper, rub the face across it and look at the scratch marks it leaves on the mounting face.
if they are just on the side's/outer edge then it is warped.
You'll need to keep sanding it until the face is flat again.
make sure you hold the carby of manifold square on the to sanding block too when sanding.

well i didnt see or feel any air leaks anywhere around the carb or manifold.. but i threw on some new gaskets on the manifold - engine connection and on the carby - manifold connection.. and tightended it all up had to do some adjusting off the wires cause i threw on a new manifold i had laying around for the carb i bought awhile back and its a bit taller but i got it all adjusted and fixed on perfect, im guessing its the valves and they are a tiny tinnnnyy bit noisey but barely? sounds normal to me from what ive heard.. but still has the noise when revved high but the bike runs fantastic though? it idles good no backfires no nothing.. maybe i need to twist the mixture screw bit.... its currently at 1.5 turns out from in and ive had it on that for a good while now and it works fine.. no backfire or anything... and i was thinking it may be the throttle needle? but its set at second from bottom cause theres 5 slots for it and 2nd from bottom works for this good... unsure...

any ideas of what i can try??? the valves are at ..inlet .002 & .003 exhaust.. i dont really wanna go in any tighter incase they burn on???


or can i go lower and they be alright?


just a few pics of how my bike is sitting right now.. and of the pet****





:grinning-smiley-003

 

[my67xr]

Don't go any tighter with the valve adjustment, see how the bike runs and starts when it's hot.
If it get's hard to start, or loses compression that's because they are a touch too tight.
And you'll need to check them again after about 4-5 hours ride time, having them set at .002", .003"

the needle clip adjustment only really effects 3/4 to full throttle, if it's all good on the 4 slot down then leave it at that.

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Don't go any tighter with the valve adjustment, see how the bike runs and starts when it's hot.
If it get's hard to start, or loses compression that's because they are a touch too tight.
And you'll need to check them again after about 4-5 hours ride time, having them set at .002", .003"

the needle clip adjustment only really effects 3/4 to full throttle, if it's all good on the 4 slot down then leave it at that.

Hey man yeah i agree i dont wanna go any tighter on the valves there at the .002 inlet and .003 exhaust and i wanna leave them there.. i got a video of my bike today and ill upload them down here for you to take a listen too..

mind you it is cold and snowing here so there was a minor bog when warming up..


[video=youtube;ZByw-Ez4jYs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZByw-Ez4jYs[/video]
idling..



and heres one of the bike rev noise just sounds like a rev limiter to me dude.. hbu?
[video=youtube;Puu8iGeZU-M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Puu8iGeZU-M[/video]

 

[my67xr]

It's only the big name CDI's that have a rev limiter.

Have you tuned the carby yet?
eg; warmed up the bike, raised the idle speed
and adjusted the mixture screw in or out till it get's to the highest/smoothest rpm ?
then dropped the idle speed back down to normal yet ?

 

[Nicknackzz13]

It's only the big name CDI's that have a rev limiter.

Have you tuned the carby yet?
eg; warmed up the bike, raised the idle speed
and adjusted the mixture screw in or out till it get's to the highest/smoothest rpm ?
then dropped the idle speed back down to normal yet ?

not yet dude, cant get a screw driver in there, i gotta come up with some sort of way to get a flathead up in there without getting burned lol also able to turn it in or out, if i want to tune it and my my baseline is 1.5 turns out from in, do i just keep it at 1.5 turns out then up the idle and turn the mixture in or out until the highest smoothest rpms are showing?

or turn it in and up the idle then turn the mixture out until i hear it, and how do i know how much idle to give it when i do this? just turn the idle right up high or just a good bit more than usual?

 

[my67xr]

It'll only need to be a few hundred rpms more than the idle speed it currently at.

Raise idle speed first then adjust mixtures,
if you turn it out till the revs start to drop, then turn it back in till the revs drop again, the best position will be somewhere in between those 2 points.
but you'll need to listen to the way the engine is running to decide, highest smoothest rpms.
when you're happy, drop the idle speed back to normal and take it for a ride to try it out.

 

[Nicknackzz13]

Finally got it done, made a mixture screw driver tool for my carbuetor..

all i done was put a drill bit flathead into a hardish fuel line from my carb and put it up in there and twisted and it worked surprisingly well lol..

anywho i heated the bike up for around 5-10minutes (its night and freezing here) so i wanted to heat it up a bit longer than usual, turned the idle up a bit to where it runs like vrrrrrooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooom lol then turned the mixture, when i turned it in it nearly died, when i turned it out there was a good bit of air sounding coming from it when i revved AKA bogging.. so i had my baseline of 1.5 turns out from in and played with it for awhile (20minutes) and i believe i got it to a pretty good start off point (maybe in future i can twist a bit more or less) but right now it is sounding good to me and i took it for a quick spin and it actually for the first time when i revved it and popped the clutch the rear wheel just went flat out with no bog or nothing just full on POWER!, so i done a dohnut and spun around and tried it a few times to see if it would bog any time and it didnt, it stayed on full power when i popped the clutch and it never wanted to die...

im unsure of how much i have it turned out but it at least 2 turns out.. defo not anymore.. but heres a video of it idling.. (video quality isnt great neither is sound but it did not bog at all when i revved it) also the click noise is my throttle (one of those alli ones)


Whats your opinion on it dude??

[video=youtube;D6AvQfPLIQs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6AvQfPLIQs[/video]

 

[Nicknackzz13]

she also sounds a good bit different.. more smoother or is it just me? lol more thudthudthud instead of.. thud .....thudd thuuudd then sounding of loss in power like high and low idling..

right now to me it sounds like a good constant idle?

 

[my67xr]

Yep, i reckon you've got it pretty close.
Just have to see how it goes out during the day.

And I wouldn't mind a bit of your cooler weather here atm, it's been around 40° C for the last week ( 104° F)

 

[Nicknackzz13]

hell yeah, i knew i was pretty close, it sounds a good bit better than what i had it at for sure, and the idle sounds good no more high then low idle..


damn dude 104f sounds horrible, in the summer here it gets around 95f sometimes 100f but i hate it! im from ireland so im use to the cold...

have you got a facebook page dude??

thanks a bunch for the help again dude, always help me out !:afro: