I put the wrong Oil In my Atomik 125cc.

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Viperboy24

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I pretty much Have no Knowledge with bikes,
It was run for about an Hour, Then when It was cooling down, I changed the oil,
started It up for about 3 mins, ( Just idling )
Went to bed, and the next morning It wouldn't start...
The oil was Too thick,
I tried A new spark plug ( After putting new Oil In )
And Still,
Wont start.

Any Suggestions?
 
what oil did you put in? massage oil? doesnt sound like an oil problem yet.
 
ahhh, Well Me and my mate Don't actually know,
It seemed like twice As thick As the Proper oil...
It was probably 20 - 50w Or maybe 30 - 60w? If that even Exists haha...
I'm a noob
 
putting that oil in will destroy your clutch before it destroys your motor. once the engine gets hot that oil will become more viscous. 20w50 shouldnt hurt it. search the forums for carb tuning. go down that path.
 
Alrighty,
Becuase As far As I know The carby Is fine,
I cleaned It out,
The bike Is only like... 6 months old, and only been ridden for like... 10 hours maybe If It's lucky...

Only thing I found, Is when It's fully warmed up and been running for A while...
It seems to be like too hot, It starts Like spluttering and stuff,

But later On today, I'll give It a Crack,
 
possibly to much oil, my bike did it on the weekend but it was after afew good hours of thrashing around a farm
 
Improper valve clearance is more likely the problem. If they have never been done, probably a good thing to do.
Search around, there is a whole thread on doing it.
 
No worries,
I'll Do the valve Clearence,
I had A look On how to do It,
It's apparently not complicated,
But It sure looks It.
But I'll try anyways,
Here goes nothing :)
 
Valve clearance done,
Still nothing...
Tried roll starting It,
It's like... 2 mm's on the stick measurement to much of Oil,
Will that be the difference Of It starting?
 
How do we know you've done them right ? ... Has the engine got strong cranking compression ? ... Decent spark at the plug ? ...

Try putting some fuel in thru the plug hole to see if wants to start when you kick it ... If you can hear it firing then it stops firing ... your carb isn't lettin' any fuel thru ...
 
I use a length of clear aquarium air line to suck fuel up into then blow into either the spark plug hole or the carb ... It gets atomised a bit that way and doesn't wet the plug ...

It's no good putting a new plug in if you haven't checked to see if the ignition is actually sparking ... I check plugs on one lead of a running car engine to see if they're firing properly and to make sure that the porcelain insulator isn't cracked ... 10 mm plugs can be cracked and sparking across down inside the threaded section ...

I once copped a box of brand new NGK C7HSA plugs that worked perfectly when used for the first time ... but they cracked after the engine was run then allowed to cool down ~ causing it to refuse to re-start ... It was a faulty batch of plugs ... They had me tearing my hair out wondering WTF was going on ... until I decided to do the car lead check ...

I knew it wasn't anything else since I had fully rebuilt the XR75 engine to perfection ... it ran like a swiss watch for the next 4 years after chucking that box of plugs and buying a new single plug ...

I learnt never to assume that a new plug was fail safe that day ...
 
Already Stuck A screw driver In the spark plug thing and tried to kick,
It doesn't have The shock anymore?

I don't understand?
Their Has never been A battery on this bike?
Unless It's IN the cdi? :S
 
And I'll take A video of My showing the Valve clearance, and The sound Of It when I try and start It,
I'll show the spark plug, I'll try and do everything,
 
Check over your wiring connections ... unplug and replug everything several times ... Dirt , muddy water , oxide etc can cause loss of contact ... Also check your kill switch ... they can also stuff up and continually short out ...

Chinese engines have lousy water proofing of the flywheel cover and that can cause ignition problems or failure as well for the above reasons ... It's best to make sure your stator and flywheel are water proof ...

Some people claim that the old XR points systems were either bad or hard to adjust ... I know otherwise ... Those people simply 'aint got a clue what they're on about ... Once the flywheel cover is properly sealed they'll run for years without needing to be touched ... Dirt and grit is what actually wears the points rubbing block and points cam ... and water / condensation causes a rust coating on the inside of the flywheel ...

Valve clearances are childs play ... Line the flywheel's "T" mark up with the crank case indexing notch and the cam sprocket's timing mark up with the indexing mark at the top of the head while both rocker pads are riding on the base circle of the cam and both valves are shut ... THEN check the rocker adjustment screw to valve stem clearances ...
 
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