Loco's Ciniworx cxf build....

[Blender]

Oh ok, fair enough

 

[xLOCOx]

hmmmm how many teeth should i go on the rear sprocket? deffs getting a talon!

 

[Blender]

What kind of riding are you planning on doing ?

 

[xLOCOx]

Racing I guess... Maybe a bit of trails aswell ....
All rounder....

 

[Blender]

If you want acceleration off the line/ out of corners, go for a large sprocket on the rear and a small on the front, But at the same time this lowers your top speed. If you want more top speed, just do the opposite, but keep in mind that'll lower acceleration, but if you end up going the way you go engine wise, I'm sure it'll have plenty of acceleration anyway

 

[xLOCOx]

cooley reckons 15 on the front and 41 on the rear!

 

[Blender]

I ran 14/41 on my 125, and soon changed the 14 out for a 17, still has plenty of acceleration, but plenty of top speed still.

 

[xLOCOx]

hmm i have a 17 on the atomik.... it seems to be good off the starts... just have to work on clutch control... better levers would help too!

 

[Snaptrax]

Yup I reckon Blender is right. My 190 tops out within a few seconds and i can barley get 70kms out of it.

 

[xLOCOx]

cool bannas!
just ordered some more stuff!... dont worry... it wasnt the engine....... lol

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Yup I reckon Blender is right. My 190 tops out within a few seconds and i can barley get 70kms out of it.

17 front 36 rear will fix that my 190 has buckets of top end and still all the punch you could need on with that set up and the rpm limit set two levels up from stock. got me doing between 120 and 130, hard to be accurate from a car speedo

 

[xLOCOx]

BOLTS ARE EXPENSIVE!!! lol got a 40mm DIA x100mm long peice of brass to machine up on the lathe at school...
30 bucks!!!!
50 bucks for some fancy coloured bolts... wow

 

[Blender]

Why use brass for bolts ?

 

[xLOCOx]

brass isnt for bolts....

 

[xLOCOx]

now... got some goodies in the mail! but......... im thinking either 90 degrees from the valve i drill a 6mm hole for these suckers any ideas?

 

[Snaptrax]

Yep thats it mate.
Or opposite the valve. up to you
But make sure you use a drill press and center the hole.

 

[xLOCOx]

can i substitute a plank of wood with a bolt holding the rim to it, then c-punch it and then drill?

 

[my67xr]

they normally need an 8mm hole ?
and placing it at 90°to the valve is ok too, it cause's less hassles trying to get tyres off or on.

with bigger wheel's i'd do it opposite the valve..

 

[xLOCOx]

can i substitute a plank of wood with a bolt holding the rim to it, then c-punch it and then drill?

yeah its 8mm hole my bad...

 

[my67xr]

i have always just drilled the hole without supporting the rim,
use a sharp 1/8th drill bit, slower drill speed minimal pressure, and the bit will do all the work.
then go up to an 8.5mm bit and do the same.
and finish it off with a fine file to deburr it, and a dab of clear to seal the anodising