Motovert Daytona 125 mods

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Styv_Loosekid_21

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I recently bought a Motovert 2007 with the good CNC cradle frame and a Daytona 125 in it but wondering of abit more HP to gather in it.... I don't really wanna go DOHC which everybody has already told me but 2500-4000k is outta my reach at the moment..

Other then that people have said scrap it an get the gpx HO motor like my atomik and go from there...

I have a Daytona 150 in my lxr at the moment and it goes will but that even need a little
More juice to be on par with the Tb 184kits and just imagin my problem with the 125 Daytona lol.. I have also heard to put the 150 head on the 125 barrel??

What's your thoughts on what I should do

Cheers styv
 
firstly, 150 head wont fit... daytona 125 share the small crf50 barrel stud spacing...

port the head, get a better cam and aim for higher compression...

what carb are you running..
 
Ahhh? 26mm mukuni... Not 100% iv got a bloke that does porting and polishing so I could go that way... What cam were you thinking?

Haven't heard much about these engines cause everyone goes the 150 or the HO 160 cause there in more mods you can do to them...
 
Motovert is one of the best quality China bikes for sure though , top 5 I would definetly say! , they also have a world record for biggest jump on a pitbike I believe off the top of my head .
 
Sorry that you didn't like my info was just sayin for all to read , just tryin to help and give knowledge bout the bike and company
 
Sorry that you didn't like my info was just sayin for all to read , just tryin to help and give knowledge bout the bike and company

Na thats fine I'm not gonna criticise pitbike company's at all considering I do race for Atomik.. Every company has there entry and high end bikes at the moment which is good for every rider...

Just that my issue is weather to ditch this Daytona 125 cause the mods isn't as much as the GPX motors... But love the Daytona 150 in my lxr but did have a 160 gpx HO with v2 head etc...

I don't really have the spare change to go dohc so need some info to up the compression
 
yep... designed by the japs, built by the chinese.... anyways who cares...

email classichonda's or terry from firepowermini's and ask what cams and pistons are compatible...
 
yep... designed by the japs, built by the chinese.... anyways who cares...

email classichonda's or terry from firepowermini's and ask what cams and pistons are compatible...

Emailed both and didn't get a reply!!! Hence why I put the post...
 
well...the post is in the "Japanese bike" section :no:

not anymore :lol_hitting:

and mate sit tight surely youll get an answer from them sooner or later...
might pay to drop akunar an email...

or break out the verniers and stat measuring your cam and springs...

dont quote me on this but i think tb race heads use the same cam style...

daytona cams are pretty good in stock form so be careful that you dont actually put a smaller one in lol...

maybe source a large profile taky cam...
 
I run the daytona 125 in my 10". There a re a few small things you can do that will give it a bit more power, but like anything it comes with side effects.
Assuming you still have the original daytona rotor and cdi box, start playing with the different maps, find a slightly retarded setting on the rotor and stage 3 selected you get the most out of the top end. Port the intake and exhaust manifold mostly focusing on the valve guide bosses, but they are already no to bad so be careful. polish and match the intake manifold, but do all of this for a 26mm flatslide carby, a pwk/oko work well but if you want that extra bit of sting the mikuni TM beat both. Make sure you clean up the inside of the exhaust header too, even though the standard pipes that came with it are a beautiful example a mandrel bent exhaust. I'm not sure that daytona made a cam for them that you can actually purchase. But beyond doing these tuning things its time to put you hand deep into your pocket and send the head off to be reworked with bigger valves, bigger ports and higher compression!
But honestly the benefit of these engines is their ability to rev. If you want to get the most out of your engine gear it for the track you are riding and make sure your rev the crap out of it, all the power is in the last couple thousand revs. you can't ride it in the same way you do a 150 or 160, you will get caned every single time. Also put a new piston in it if it is still on the original. Makes a huge difference.
 
I run the daytona 125 in my 10". There a re a few small things you can do that will give it a bit more power, but like anything it comes with side effects.
Assuming you still have the original daytona rotor and cdi box, start playing with the different maps, find a slightly retarded setting on the rotor and stage 3 selected you get the most out of the top end. Port the intake and exhaust manifold mostly focusing on the valve guide bosses, but they are already no to bad so be careful. polish and match the intake manifold, but do all of this for a 26mm flatslide carby, a pwk/oko work well but if you want that extra bit of sting the mikuni TM beat both. Make sure you clean up the inside of the exhaust header too, even though the standard pipes that came with it are a beautiful example a mandrel bent exhaust. I'm not sure that daytona made a cam for them that you can actually purchase. But beyond doing these tuning things its time to put you hand deep into your pocket and send the head off to be reworked with bigger valves, bigger ports and higher compression!
But honestly the benefit of these engines is their ability to rev. If you want to get the most out of your engine gear it for the track you are riding and make sure your rev the crap out of it, all the power is in the last couple thousand revs. you can't ride it in the same way you do a 150 or 160, you will get caned every single time. Also put a new piston in it if it is still on the original. Makes a huge difference.

thanks mate great feed back and info in which i needed..
 
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