pbk
Well-Known Member
oko flatslide 26mm
thinking about a 28 in the future
thinking about a 28 in the future
oko flatslide 26mm
thinking about a 28 in the future
Hmm, those graphics sure do look familar. Looks sick mate!
Its all good mate. I still have the graphics but im not running them anymore. Needs some gold rims to give it a retro look i rekon.
Naww you get custom graphics from magik sc and dont even get them to actually make you custom graphics?! crazy man!
mate its definitely running too lean..
112 - 115 main
you must have a wrong pilot installed as this is why your glowing the pipe..
notice if you keep the fat into it the pipe goes back to normal.. plus the blue flames back firing out the pipe is a perfect give away..
go richer in the pilot..
go to your local jap bike shop to get jets... oko carbs are a copy the keihin pwk
if you watch when the throttle is wide open the 6 second board came out and the throttle was open for 5 seconds,
when warming up i am not just holding the throttle wide open for like 10 seconds before the chik comes out with the board,
if you check throttle action on this vid, when the pipe is glowing it was not valve bouncing
YouTube - BRAAAP RACING ROUND 8 JUNIORS, 2010, GLOWING RED EXHAUST PIPE PITSTER PRO LXR
do these guys relize when using a boost bottle it leans the mixture right off when cold ? if you check video exhaust colour changes back to normal richness mixture after aprox 25 secs when warm up is complete
also can someone explain why the pipe changed back to normal colour even though reving the same ? after 25secs, because i can
watch this vid YouTube - BRAAAP RACING ROUND 8 JUNIORS, 2010,PITSTER PRO LXR, HOLE SHOT at the start line
i am using 17/35 and a holstot button and it still wheelies is 2nd gear, if i use the gearing you suggest the bike is more wheelie prone, so i found the tall gearing i use more user friendly
also with ya new v2, are you going to use the s35 cam ?
as i said your mainly lean in your pilot circuit hence the reason it pulls the pipe colour back to normal when your WOT .. richen the pilot circuit up
iv never seen a 4 stroke fitted with one either and by the sounds of it they need a special tune..
lol the guy next to you was like WTF mate..
definitely not good for the engine.
using gearing like that is really going to kill your clutch.
this is wat prac session is all about.(test n tune) you want to be nearly at the top rpm of 4th on the longest part of the track..
using smaller gearing shouldnt buck you off if you ride it properly.. sit as far forward as possible and hit the fat..
also smaller gearing should want to spin alot where as you have it its relying on torque which is wats bringing the front up.
and if its still picking the front up then obviously you dont need so much off the line, but when your a couple feet out then hit it more...
it all comes down to practice mate..
Those $20 boost bottles were made for pocket bikes.. And they are an epic fail... No performance gain.. Only thing you gain is 20wfp (**** factor points)
I was going to say I like the sticker kit, but since it's the same as woods, I should actually be saying it to him.. Personally think the bike has too much red, kickstart, gear lever and clutch lever make the bike look cheap imo.. But each to their own.
yeah admit it mate ya love it and ya hangin to ride it like everone else at the track, feel the real HP hahah
yeah with the clutch issue, when we got the bike stock one year ago, i smashed a clutch is less than 11 hours use with everything stock no mods to engine or gearing, we were advised to change clutch basket aprox every 15 hrs max with stock everything, now we change it aprox every 6 hrs of racing, btw this bike is pureley for racing not for the daily ride.
yeah i agree with the practice and technique.
at the moment the tall gearing gives me good drive for the holeshot but still wheelies but the speed difference is far greater than changing gears on grass track anyway
at the moment the tall gearing gives me good drive for the holeshot but still wheelies but the speed difference is far greater than changing gears on grass track anyway
what ever floats your boat mate..
if your going thru clutches that quick then you need to upgrade the clutch..
smaller gearing = less clutch problems...
so who your advisor.. sounds a bit retarded to me..
Have you tried going shorter gearing and starting in second? Just a thought.
But yeah, I gotta agree with the others, if you're only riding around in second, shorten your gearing and see how you go...
theres a few reasons teeth strip off and i have done it in the past..
its from the cush drive rubbers hammering out then the ring gear floats around on the baskets and then strips teeth off cause theres no dampening.
if your rear tyre is bouncing alot and suddenly losing traction then grabbing traction then this can cause it, but usually it happens on non linkage bikes so maybe you need to sort your suspension out a bit better..
lots of clutch action can cause it too..
TB billet clutches are basically out dated now.. have a look on there site im pretty sure they removed the full kits but they have all the spares...
and are you serious.. your starting in second gear with that gearing... OMG thats nutts.
id hate to see what your clutch pates look like..
mate we've had 190+cc engines and never shat a clutch sadly the BBK's we used only lasted about 15-20hrs buts thats still longer than your getting out of a clutch...
and yes these were race built bikes
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