New member, Dhz 160 dpro issues

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I take it the idle screw is the screw on the back of the carby? Or is it on front near choak? Just fort I'd get some photos before shop opens

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Idle screw is on the right handside of the carby. On the right hand side, with the kick starter look at the carby there should be a phillips head screw.
It's the screw in the first photo you put up

Undoing it will lower the idle and doing it up will increase the idle.

The fuel/air mixture is underneath the carby, at the front. It's just a flat head screwdriver. Undoing it will make it run leaner and doing it up will make it run richer

Also if you're gonna buy a set of feeler gauges from the shops you won't need mine :)
 
Haha just checked the oil not even 50 mill in it :/ off to shop to get oil and spark plug

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How much should I put in when refilling?

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buy a 1 litre , it will take about 900mls
when you check the dipstick, make sure the bike is in an upright position
 
Awesome thanks mate so I take it the oil cooler works off the engine oil? Was worried I had to top it up use to have to put coolint in my 2 stroke, and would I remaining Chinese oil in my oil cooler? Iv dropped the sunk but that's it

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You don't really have to worry about whats still in the cooler. Change the oil again after a few hours of riding and more metal shavings and some more of the old oil might come out

Yep oil goes up the cooler and then down it, Works off the oil in the sump

Were there any metallic shavings in the oil?
 
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Was one little shaving oil still seemed fairly new I just gave it not even have a kick and more oil came pissing out done it 3 or 4 times and yeah all up about 370 mill of oil came out so I'm worried it might not be oil amount making the bubbling noise

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having that much oil in it would have most likely caused the bubbling sound.


this cover held on by 3 bolts on the r/h side of the engine towards the front is where the oil filter is,
take it out and give it a clean too, degreaser or petrol works well, then give it a blow through with compressed air after.
when you take the cover off there could be a small rubber o ring make sure that goes back in with the big rubber seal too

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there is another brass filter screen inside the engine too,
when you get a chance it would be worth checking it and cleaning that one too

you need to remove the kickstart lever and the r/h side cover off the engine.

 
using a CR7HSA will give you a smaller spark,
but it's not really that noticable unless your bike is race prepped.

Its more to do with the lead isnt it though? If you have a lead with a built in resistor then you don't need a CR7HSA as you're actually going to loose a bit of voltage....

I just got CR7HSA's for two reasons.

Reason A. Is the shop doesn't have C7's in stock yet.

Reason B. Both my pit pros the CR7HSA is the listed as the correct plug for the bike.

As Craig said it wont make any noticeable difference.

I haven't noticed anything except its less painful to pull the plug out if you need to if you're using a CR7....compared to a C7....but as soon as I can get some C7's I will, they're only $4.90!

:thumbup:
 
the C7HSA and CR7HSA are exactly the same size,
just the Resistor one has the Resistor inside the ceramic at the top of the plug

the best Spark Plug to use on the pit bikes is the CR7HIX, Irridium Spark Plug,
they are less likely to foul, give you a better spark, and will outlast the Standard plugs by 5 times +
but they are more expensive $15 delivered- NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug CR7HIX 7544 | eBay


Stu,
the ignition needs a slight resistance to fire the coil, so you either use a spark plug cap with the resistor or a spark plug with a resistor.
it is the cap on the end of the lead, most pit bike ones have a built in Resistor, they are usually stamped 5K (5000 Ohms) on them.

this is the correct Spark Plug Cap to use with a Resistor Spark Plug- 1X NGK None Resistor Spark Plug CAP LZFH Black 8710 | eBay
 
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Stu,
the ignition needs a slight resistance to fire the coil, so you either use a spark plug cap with the resistor or a spark plug with a resistor.
it is the cap on the end of the lead, most pit bike ones have a built in Resistor, they are usually stamped 5K (5000 Ohms) on them.

this is the correct Spark Plug Cap to use with a Resistor Spark Plug- 1X NGK None Resistor Spark Plug CAP LZFH Black 8710 | eBay

Cool so running a resister plug and cap will actually 'lower' the noise of the bike?

Did I read that correctly?
 
I got a feeler gauges today but the start at .009 so yeah il have to go back tomorrow and get another pair but just changed the oil and yeah ill give her a go in the morning

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And thank u very much 67 xx appreciate the help I'll clean them out now

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After oil change etc finally start my bike today it feels as it's lost half it's compression? But will only start if I give it a little throttle while kicking it and noticed smoke coming out my air filter?

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sounds like the valves were adjusted wrong

did you kick it over to TDC, remove the spark plug, then move the flywheel around to line up the marking on the flywheel to the 12 o'clock marking in the case ?
then check the cam gear marking was at 9 o'clock and lined up with the mark at the front of the head ?
 
Never got around to doing the valves got the wrong feeler gauges it starts at .009 but I took it out bush today bubbling problem gone once new oil got into oil cooler and also played with idle screw cause was only going hard 1st to 3rd but got it going hard in 4th now just blows abit of white smoke till it warms up properly

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