revmx

[dam87]

hey mate a bit off topic but how is the bike going?

 

[revmx_89]

really good just a few little problems that all china bikes have

 

[user 11561]

Use the search engine - i know the fork thing is somewhere!!

 

[mattbombers]

this may help?

ok, so i've done a bit of tinkering with the front end of the TTR and found a reasonable solution to the DNM M200 forks...
Most people have found them to be on the stiff side, and little harsh, and tend to deflect over rough ground...
I measured the stock oil quantities in both legs, found there to be 225ml in the right leg, and 200mm in the left leg, i'm assuming of either 10 or 15w oil....
i've replaced it with 225ml of 5w oil in both legs, and so far the front end seems to be far more compliant, and adjustments in the clickers seem to have a more noticeable effect...
I'm taking it out tomorrow for a bit more testing, so i'll see if the oil height is ok, or whether it needs a bit of raising to keep bottoming resistance...
But for those TTR owners who want a more compliant front end, change the oil for 225ml of 5w oil, it will make a huge improvement.

with a hammer...


-Nah, you undo the top triple clamp pinch bolts, grab a shifter and undo the top fork caps... the big ones with the rebound adjusters in them... undo them until you can spin them by hand...
-remove the front wheel, brake caliper, brake lines etc from the left fork...
-slide the forks out of the triples.
-Undo the fork caps entirely, until they are clear of the outer fork tubes.
-Compress the outer fork legs until they ''bottom'' out....
-Grab a clean rag, and pull the spring (white one, there are two... yellow and white...) down, until you can get a 9mm open ended spanner onto the damper rod. (long tube that joins the fork cap to the rest of the forks)
-Hold the 9mm spanner on the damper rod where it is machined "square" to take a spanner, and then using the shifter again, undo the fork cap from the damper rod.
-Using the rag again, pull down the spring and carefully remove the 9mm spanner from the damper rod. Go gently, otherwise the spring tension will shoot the spanner into your head, or into Dad's commodore....
-remove the springs from the damper rod, and set aside somewhere CLEAN....
-Grab a measuring jug, and push the damper rod down until it's flush with the top of the outer fork leg..
-Tip the fork upside down, and pump the damper rod in and out until all the fluid in the leg is drained out into the jug...
-write down how much oil came out of each leg....
-To refill the fork leg, it's best to use the measuring jug again, so you get an exact amount of fluid in the fork... i went with 225mm of 5w oil.... use a funnel if you have one small enough, and try to pour the fluid down the inside of the damper rod... saves a bit of time and mess if you can... once you have your new fluid in the fork, SLOWLY pump the damper rod up and down, still with the outer fork tube COMPRESSED.... eventually you will feel resistance both UP AND DOWN in the damper rod stroke... this is the oil circulating everywhere it should be...
REMEMBER!!! Pump slowly, or you will get shot in the face with suspension fluid, and it tastes like *****..

Now for the hard part...
-Grab the fork cap with inner damper rod still attached, and slide it into the outer damper rod... you will need this to try and hold the damper rod up so you can attach the fork cap to the damper rod....
-Using your clean rag again, try your best to compress the spring, and get that 9mm spanner back onto the damper rod. It's a bitch of a job, and will probably take you a few goes...
-once you manage to get the 9mm spanner on the damper rod again, tighten the fork cap onto the damper rod...
Ok, that's the hardest part done....
-Now screw the fork cap into the outer fork leg, this will require pulling the fork to full extension... do the fork cap up as tight as you can, then pump the forks up and down a bit by hand... if you wind the rebound adjuster all the way in and pump it, then wind it all the way out, you should feel a bit of difference in how fast the fork rebounds, or springs back.... it didnt do this standard....
-reinstall the fork back into the triple clamps, tighten the bottom clamps up tight, then using the shifter again, tighten the fork cap up tight... dont over do it though...
-Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts, then start on the other leg...
-Reinstall front wheel, tighten axle blah blah blah, and enjoy your new squishy forks, which now actually respond to clicker adjustments...

sorry, without pics or a vid, that's the best i can do, and i cant be buggered pulling them apart all over again to take pics..

 

[Dreadful]

Nice Bombers ....Thumps no longer here but he left us plenty of info we just gotta search for it .. +reps for you mate .

As for backbrakes ? ...well hopefully one of out guru's will know more but here's my thoughts ... I've never had trouble or had to bleed one but I've heard they can be very hard to bleed .... I'm guessin this may be ya problem as the system isn't leaking .... just a thought and again hopefully one of our gurus might clarify this .... but maybe it's because the system runs almost horizontal ... making it harder to clear the bubbles using gravity as it just pushes the bubble up against the topside of the line rather than out of the end of it ? ... IF this makes sense I'd try disconnecting your shock and dropping your swinger into a more vertical position to aid the gravity process .

 

[dadof2]

re the brake issue
the fluid is only sucked into the line just about at the end of its return once depressed
if you have the rod adjusted to far down it cannot replenish the fluid from the reservoir and therefore not enough pressure to bleed

Ive had one that gave me the poos i could only get it to about half the pressure it should have been at i got feed up and just rode it .
by doing that the little air bubble that was stuck internally somewhere freed itself .another little bleed and its all good now

when thump 140 took a look he felt the pedal travel was a bit far so we adjusted the rod only slightly it could probably be adjusted further but I'm gonna leave it how thump and i set it

 

[revmx_89]

thanks guys i have adjusted the rod but it still wont work there is plenty of pressure its like the piston is jammed

 

[epod]

piston is jamed

Hi mate sounds like your master cyclinder piston is jammed. I had this problem on my pitster x4. I pulled it apart and cleaned it no problem since.
Ride on DD

 

[wogtaz ryder]

For bleeding the rear , take the master cylinder off and lift it up high .

 

[revmx_89]

thanks woggy have not tried that yet but makes since

 

[revmx_89]

ok guy thanks for the help once again now. I have got the forks sweet new front wheel bearing done but still no rear brake. I have pulled it off and striped it cleaned it bleed it and nothing seems to work. Today I ordered a v2 head kit with s35 cam cant wait to get it now will the 26 mm oko be ok with the v2 head or am i better of with something bigger.?

 

[wogtaz ryder]

26 will run awesome mate!

28 would be more suited i would assume but the 26 ran awesome for me , and i would say it would make better track power.