Run in oil? Synthetic? Oil question

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Flarry

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Just got a new engine and I have synthetic 10 - 40 and shell 20 - 50, I usually use the 20-50 all the time and was planning to switch to the 10-40 but Im not sure if I should use synthetic when running it in (or even at all), Im super nervous about wrecking another engine so Im here for advice, what oil should I use when running it in, and afterwards?

Thanks in advance.
 
there is not going to be much difference using a synthetic oil... the maker's of these bikes recommend a 10w-40 based oil, and i havent said anything said about using non-synthetic, semi synthetic or synthetic!
 
i'm pretty sure you shouldn't use synthetic oil for any engine in the run-in stage, maybe semi-synthetic would be ok tho.
 
there is no major difference really... so long that it is protecting the motor from damage it should be fine... they mainly say do not use synthetic as it allows the clutch to slip but i have never had that problem
 
What oil do you use on your bikes crazzy? jameswalker, are you suggesting I should use the 20w50 instead? I hear that its too thick for a new engine?
 
I used 20w-50 since new and am still using it and never had a problem
 
they mainly say do not use synthetic as it allows the clutch to slip but i have never had that problem

Ricky's TLR (1000cc v twin) has alot of torque and the full synthetic does make his clutch slip under power, won't see this happen to a 125cc engine.

I also vote to stick with 10W40 as the 20W50 oil is thicker and although its worked for full-on it may not be good for your engine. Just remember, its your engine and you can't go blaming the forum if you take wrong advice. Do your home work and get an answer from a reliable source like a Honda shop (what do CT110s use?)

;)
 
i've used 15w-50 from the very beginning as the local mechanic told me it would be fine oh and it's semi-synthetic.

Never had smoke blowing, clutch slipping, weird noises etc etc.
 
Rang up a few pitbike shops and they said 20w50 is fine, 10w40 is fine too, synthetic will cause the clutch to slip.

The oil I have is 10w40 synthetic enriched, does this mean its semi synthetic or full synthetic? I think its semi synthetic.. just rode it then and the clutch didnt slip, felt fine.
 
Penrite

It's non-synthetic, but I swear by Penrite HPR-30.
I've used it in all the bikes and cars I've ever owned, from a Kwaka z250, Ducati 650 Pantah and a 72 Alfa spider.

It's working well in my young bloke's 110cc Chinese quad, which I think has the Lifan motor. (not sure, but it's definitely one of the CT110 clones)

Given that you want the motor to bed in well, you don't want a really high performance oil in there from the very start. I'd run the thing in gently for a couple of hours with some cheap crap, then drop that and go with the good stuff from then on.

As long as you are regular with oil changes, you can't go wrong. Anyway, these things only take a small amount of oil, so changing it fairly often isn't going to cost the earth.

best-o-luck
 
Always used Belray Thumper oil from first start up and change it every few hard rides. Never had any of my bikes use or leak any oil, And this oil is designed to make your clutch work better.:) Cant be too bad.
 
there's a purpose built thumper oil but it's heaps expencive^^^^^^^^^^^^^thats the stuff

but its semi-synth 10-50w i've been told it's the bee's knees
but i've only use shell sx4 and it's 10-40w
the reason i use is because the honda dealer that i brought my big bikes off
both xr400 and crf250 wouldn't work on my bike if i used any thing else
he said it was of the perfect consistency for the four stroke engine
but hay i'm not real certain f....in oils oil so
do what you see fit

i reckon the thicker the better for the pitty any way
 
What I've read about running-in a new engine with full synthethic oil was, the oil will be too slippery for the internal parts like piston rings n cyclinder wall.
The reason to adhere to running-in process is to let the rings rub n match the cyclinder wall, and for the gearbox to work itself into unison.
Full synth oil could affect the process and the proper sealing between rings n cyclinder wall.
Thats the main reason it was suggested that we run-in with semi synth, then change to regular diet of full synth after that.

Correct me if I've been misled all this while. ;)
 
Well Im using valvoline synthetic enriched, whatever that is, havent had any problems.
 
Use a mineral 10w-40 for initial run (2 changes) and then switch to a synthetic if you prefer,if the synthetic oil is designed for 4 stroke bikes it'll be fine,i use a shell synthetic in my pit and my ktm 450 and the clutch don't slip in either of them,if your clutch slip's on synthetic your using one designed for car's or it's buggered!
 
ive read at some threads that motul 5100 is synthetic and not semi synthetic.

the motul site says this...
SPECIFICATIONS

Product 5100 ESTER

Feature Semi-synthetic, contains ester. Includes special additives that reinforces gears. Reduces noise and wear.

lol so what is it?:confused:

is it ok to use fully synthetic oil in these 125cc engines?

thanks
 
Well I think the only downside of using synthetic is the clutch might slip and its usually ok after run in.
 
Well I think the only downside of using synthetic is the clutch might slip and its usually ok after run in.

Especially when you are hooning up a hill like I was then your motor just goes BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPPPPPPPPPP and you start rolling backwards.
 
i want to get a mutal semi syntheic 10-40.

is the mutal 3000+ good for the ducar 125?

and where is the oil filter on this motor?

thanks heaps
 
did you mean motul?, motul is good if its 10w40 5100 i use that in my bike and have not had a problem, there is a large bolt on the bottom of the engine there are to but the bigger one is the oil drain bolt.
 
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