Running Hot

[rotn50]

most of the time to clear a flooding carby, hold the throttle flat and keep kickin it and it should slowly start revving but hold it flat till it clears

 

[my67xr]

looking at your pic of the oko, i can see something missing!
where is the rubber boot that covers the top of the carb, where the cable goes into?
that would be sucking air in through there and making it leaner.
another member here recently bought an oko from DHZ and his wasn't supplied with the rubber boot for the top either.

another thing with the oko rubber manifold adapters,
i have 2x adapters, both were not faced off properly and weren't square.

to fix this problem,
take the manifold off, and gently pry the rubber 'o' ring out of the manifold side.
then grab some 180 grit dry sandpaper, decent stuff 3M or Norton brand.
put it on a flat piece of wood or glass, and give the adapters' manifold mounting face a rub across the sandpaper a few times.
then look at the mounting face agin, the fine scratches should be even across the mounting face.
both of mine when i rubbed it across the paper only scuffed the 2x outer edges, basically where the bolts go through.

i had to give them both a rub back on the sandpaper for a few minutes, until the faces were flat.
then refit the 'o'rings and put them back together again.

also,
if the bolts are doing up tight before they pull the adapter manifold up flush against the alloy intake manifold,
you may need to use a couple of spring washers under the bolts' heads to take up some of the thread.
or cut a couple of mm off the bolts thread.

post up your results anyway, so we can help you sort the problem out.

cheers, craig

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

Have you checked your valve clearances? The dhz is a great little bike it will just take you a bit of time to get it all sorted and know your way around it.

 

[8r3nd0]

looking at your pic of the oko, i can see something missing!
where is the rubber boot that covers the top of the carb, where the cable goes into?
that would be sucking air in through there and making it leaner.
another member here recently bought an oko from DHZ and his wasn't supplied with the rubber boot for the top either.

another thing with the oko rubber manifold adapters,
i have 2x adapters, both were not faced off properly and weren't square.

to fix this problem,
take the manifold off, and gently pry the rubber 'o' ring out of the manifold side.
then grab some 180 grit dry sandpaper, decent stuff 3M or Norton brand.
put it on a flat piece of wood or glass, and give the adapters' manifold mounting face a rub across the sandpaper a few times.
then look at the mounting face agin, the fine scratches should be even across the mounting face.
both of mine when i rubbed it across the paper only scuffed the 2x outer edges, basically where the bolts go through.

i had to give them both a rub back on the sandpaper for a few minutes, until the faces were flat.
then refit the 'o'rings and put them back together again.

also,
if the bolts are doing up tight before they pull the adapter manifold up flush against the alloy intake manifold,
you may need to use a couple of spring washers under the bolts' heads to take up some of the thread.
or cut a couple of mm off the bolts thread.

post up your results anyway, so we can help you sort the problem out.

cheers, craig

I've gotten three oko's, two from DHZ and one from a local shop and none of them came with a rubber boot that covers the top of the carb, I haven't had problems with air sucking through the top. Don't think I've ever seen one with the rubber unless they have cut costs and don't supply them with it anymore?

 

[allyboyz]

okay,so today i put in a new plug it started on choke and i turned the choke off was still running but i could wind the air/fuel screw all the way in with out any change in the rev range. after about 2 mins of running and tring to tune it died and once again wont start. It was still running pretty hot even after just 2 mins of idling. very frustrating! ive only been able to actually ride the bike for about 1 hour so far since new! all i want is for it to be sweet so i can ride it more. that 1 hour though was awesome!!

 

[allyboyz]

also once it stops it makes A lot of ticking noises from the head, is that normal or just becasue its running hot still?

 

[allyboyz]

also i forgot to mention when it dies it just stops. the revs dont die down or anything it just stops running. not sure if that will kead to any clues of what it could be but figured id mention it.

 

[my67xr]

did you check the clearances on the valves?
that will make the motor tick if they ( the clearances) are too big.
normally when they warm up, the clearances close up a bit, and the engine may run rough as the valves dont close properly.

have you tried spraying the adaptor manifold to the alloy intake manifold joins with crc/wd40 etc, seeing if the idle changes? (when it's running)
and where the alloy intake manifold meets the head too.
also spray the join in the carby where the fuel bowl meets the base of the carb.


another thing to try is wrap some electrical insulation tape around the top of the carby where the cable goes in, to seal it better, and see if it makes any difference to the idle etc?

make sure you only try one thing at a time.
and post up any results...

 

[my67xr]

with the engine just stopping,
it may be due to lack of fuel, did you remove the hose off the carby and turn the tap on to see if it's flowing properly?
there may be crud in the carbys needle and seat too, blocking the fuel flow?

 

[allyboyz]

Cheers for the thoughts and advice guys, I'll go through and try all the things mentioned above. I also spoke to dhz they're going to send me a new boot so hopefully that fixes the problem. with checking the valve clearances how exactly do i do that and what clearance do they need on the z160ho? would it be the valves even though its a new bike? like ive only been all up able to ride it for maybe a hour.

 

[allyboyz]

Okay guys, I spent all day working on the bike. Went and put a new rubber boot on, the carby sealed up tight unlike the one before. checked exhaust was on tight as well. it still wont kick over, Its gone from starting sometimes and running hot to just not wanting to start at all. the only things i havent checked are the valve clearance i read how to doit on here but i dont have a set of feelers. could that be the problem? would the valve clearance being wrong casue it to run hot or not start? I'm all out of ideas guys i have a video ill try uploading of the last time it started and ran for about a minute while i was trying to tune the oko carb.

 

[allyboyz]

[video=youtube;qUD9fjevpV8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUD9fjevpV8[/video]

 

[Carlts]

Yer definetely do the valve clearances man, once yuo get a set of feeler gauges its not too difficult a task and should fix your problem man!

 

[allyboyz]

dont know if there will be any clues in the video but figured it might help.

 

[allyboyz]

should the inlet be 0.0003 and outlet 0.0004 its the z160ho. becasue i saw some where some one said do 0.0004 and 0.0006.

 

[Carlts]

go with ".003" inlet .004" exhaust"

I used that on my 155z pre and post bore kit and it runs sweet

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

clean ya Carbie out if you have not already done so and make sure the jets are not blocked. make sure fuel is getting from the tank to the Carbie bowl.