striped peg mount and as-02

[phsycohavoc]

so today when i was installing my new skidplate on the last bolt
i finally got bit of torque so i backed off and BANG the bolt poped
out with the thread on it. Is it possible to get a longer bolt and
run that? as the current one is quite short. or do i need a new
engine part?


also what size axle do as-02s have and would they fit a chinese crf
repica?

thanks to anyone that helps

 

[darb110]

so you snapped the head off your bolt or you threaded the hole in your engine?

 

[phsycohavoc]

the hole in the engine but it looks to be twice as deep as the bolt

 

[darb110]

is the bolt still in there?

 

[phsycohavoc]

not the bolt poped out with about a cm of thread on it

 

[darb110]

so theres nothing in there,.. then get another bolt

 

[phsycohavoc]

but atleast half the threads gone to so it wont go in and i was wodering if its safe to use a longer bolt

 

[darb110]

so half of it is threaded then

 

[crazzy #1]

its pulled have the thread out of the motor case....

in other words you will need to re-tap it and use a thicker bolt... there is also another way of doing it but off the top of my head i cant remember the name!

 

[phsycohavoc]

but it wont go in unless i get a longer one and i was wondering how safe the was, because when it came out it removed the bottom thread in the hole

 

[phsycohavoc]

^^ helicoil by any chance?

 

[cass38a]

You can use a longer bolt but you may need to tap the thread a bit deeper.

 

[crazzy #1]

heli coil...

thats the name

take a picture of whats happened?

 

[Brad.R]

put a longer bolt in and if it to long meausre it and cut it down

 

[ducar.r.spec]

yeah just use a longer bolt

 

[tubes380]

helicoil it and all the other bolts while your at it, i done the same to mine as i tighten them up real tight, dont want the thing to come loose as i land from a big jump,

another brand is recoil, same deal.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Yeah helicoils are probably as good having studs .... Bolts into bare alloy are actually not a very good idea since the steel wears the alloy thread every single time you tighten or undo the bolt ....

It always pays to fit all the parts up then check the full depth with something so that you can get bolts with thread sections that go almost to the full thread depth (without bottoming out) with washers and other part thicknesses taken into account ........

A bolt should screw in easily by hand until it's seated on the parts with them all clamped together (no gaps) and only THEN should the thread be subjected to pulling or torquing ....... that especially goes for cradle type frames .... Do the bottom bolts up first with the rear engine mount bolt in and the bottom of the the engine and pegbar sitting hard against the cradle THEN see if you can get the top engine mount bolt in ...... IF you can't , then you need to pack between the cradle and engine with something ......

Tightening the bolts to pull the cradle up to close a gap with the top mount bolt in will preload and stress the upper and lower mounts and cases or strip the threads ....

Most people should already know all that ..... but then again you get those who don't know and find out the hard way .....

 

[Cactus Jack]

helicoil it and all the other bolts while your at it, i done the same to mine as i tighten them up real tight, dont want the thing to come loose as i land from a big jump,

another brand is recoil, same deal.

It's OK to tighten bolts up adequately but over tightening actually weakens them by lowering the breaking strain ...... the more tension you add ..... the less sudden impact force they can withstand before the thread strips out ......

 

[phsycohavoc]

Yeah helicoils are probably as good having studs .... Bolts into bare alloy are actually not a very good idea since the steel wears the alloy thread every single time you tighten or undo the bolt ....

It always pays to fit all the parts up then check the full depth with something so that you can get bolts with thread sections that go almost to the full thread depth (without bottoming out) with washers and other part thicknesses taken into account ........

A bolt should screw in easily by hand until it's seated on the parts with them all clamped together (no gaps) and only THEN should the thread be subjected to pulling or torquing ....... that especially goes for cradle type frames .... Do the bottom bolts up first with the rear engine mount bolt in and the bottom of the the engine and pegbar sitting hard against the cradle THEN see if you can get the top engine mount bolt in ...... IF you can't , then you need to pack between the cradle and engine with something ......

Tightening the bolts to pull the cradle up to close a gap with the top mount bolt in will preload and stress the upper and lower mounts and cases or strip the threads ....

Most people should already know all that ..... but then again you get those who don't know and find out the hard way .....

thanks heaps for that load of info

a Q to you guys in aussie: how much are the thread repair kits overthere as the ones in nz are rare and hella expensive

 

[tubes380]

It's OK to tighten bolts up adequately but over tightening actually weakens them by lowering the breaking strain ...... the more tension you add ..... the less sudden impact force they can withstand before the thread strips out ......

yes i know that, but with a cradle frame your engine bolts ultimately arent taking the strain and the strain is also taken over the four bolts not just the one, and when i say tight i mean tight, not overtight, theres a big difference but you would know that already.