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skidz1

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hey guys just a quick question.. i got a set of 14' - 12' - 1.85 steel wheels from atomik for my motovert. and the rear wheel lasted 2 rides before it cracked the rim.. i first noticed my tyre was flat, then my spokes were loose, and then the rim had cracked. the spokes were tight before i went riding!! Now just wondering, they sell 2 sets of wheels. the steel, or the 7116 alloy. what would be the strongest out of both? really don't want it stuffing up again..

any help would be great.. cheers
 
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The 7116 ally wheel would be stronger, but the spokes will need to be checked every ride, if they are loose try and do them up as evenly as possible, or you could buckle the rim.
 
so the steel wheels wouldn't buckle as easy?
 
Nah, as far as I know allow wheels are meant to be a lot stronger than steel. I run steel rims on both my bikes and I havn't had any problems so far though.
 
Just searched this up on google! - Steel wheels are significantly stronger than alloy wheels. It takes greater force to bend steel wheels, and it is almost impossible to crack them., purely cosmetic damage is not generally a major issue.

so how the hell did it crack lol.. i know there chinese and made sh*t, but still. has anybody else had problems with the wheels cracking?
 
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the Alloy 7116 rims are aircraft grade, usually heat treated to T6 too,
that is what most Japanese competition bikes have

the steel rims are made of low.medium quality chinese steel, probably melted down Great wall wrecks.

do you have a picture of where it cracked ?
i'm guessing across the rim from one side to the other, where it was welded ?
 
na just one side, but yes on the weld... only place i find that sells the 7116 is atomik. also where i have been buying the steel rims from. so there 7116 rims are as good quality as any?
 
sounds like it could have been a one off crack/break?

yeah a lot of the big bikes have the 7116 fitted as standard,
it's aircraft grade aluminium with magnesium, and with a T6 after it means they are heat treated

if your looking for a good quality wheel find one with CNC'd hubs too

here's a good front-
14" Gold Front RIM CNC HUB Honda SSR SDG V RM13Y | eBay
and a good rear-
12'' Inch RIM CNC HUB Sutable FOR Thumpstar PIT Dirt Bike | eBay

otherwise look for some Pitsterpro wheels, or have your wheels relaced with some Excel rims
excel rim 12" | eBay
 
dhz sell the alloy 14' and 12' with billet hubs for $168 but not sure if there 7116
 
yeh thats them.. what cheaper ones are you talking about? i already bought another steel rim for now as i needed it quick. so ill see how i go. if it breaks again I'm gonna have to do something about it. costing a fortune just for wheels atm lol.. cheers for your help mate
 
the ones i linked are $185 for the set,
they have some listed on sale too atm as well for $168, not sure if they are the same rims though ?
 
yeh ill have to give dhz a call i think. the ones with the red billet are on sale for some reason for $168... So with these 7116 are stronger than steel, but if spokes come loose or not done up evenly they can bend? where the steel ones won't yeh? sounds like there is good and bad for both of them really.. also with the billet hubs, is it just to make sure that they don't crack around the sprocket studs? if so does it happen often? sorry for all the questions mate
 
All rims will buckle and go out of shape if the spokes are ridden while loose or the spokes are done up un-evenly.
 
sounds like it could have been a one off crack/break?

yeah a lot of the big bikes have the 7116 fitted as standard,
it's aircraft grade aluminium with magnesium, and with a T6 after it means they are heat treated

if your looking for a good quality wheel find one with CNC'd hubs too

here's a good front-
14" Gold Front RIM CNC HUB Honda SSR SDG V RM13Y | eBay
and a good rear-
12'' Inch RIM CNC HUB Sutable FOR Thumpstar PIT Dirt Bike | eBay

Wow both of those rims are awesome!!
 
they both have the CNC Hubs,
but how would you know if they were machined from a single piece of 7116 alloy, or if they were just cast alloy then machined to look like they were CNC'd?
guess you just have to trust them
 
they both have the CNC Hubs,
but how would you know if they were machined from a single piece of 7116 alloy, or if they were just cast alloy then machined to look like they were CNC'd?
guess you just have to trust them

Good point...
 
Once you have checked them and there tight put a ziptie on each cross over of the spokes where they touch each other.
 
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