yx 150 gearbox need help

[mitch05]

i take it you mean the circle cover

 

[sean01]

no, the complete right hand side cover...
i know you took the other cover off but you have to take the cover off that the little cover bolts too.

 

[mitch05]

oh ok to do that i need to remove the clutch i think i need a special tool its got some special nut on it

 

[bulldog93]

If you don't have the tool get a rubber malet and a solid bit of metal and just tap it over and over till it moves the continue tapping it till it comes off. It should have an oil slinger you'll have to take that off with a impact screw driver. If you don't have an impact screw driver get a phillips head screwdriver that fits perfectly and get a hammer, put the screwdriver in the head of the bolt push against it nice and hard at the same time twist it so its ferm the with your hammer give it a wack and you should hear a little crack and then keep on doing that to all four bolts. There'll be another special nut after you take of the oil slinger cover. It'll be excatly the same as your clutch nut. Do the same as I said in the first sentance for this.

 

[sean01]

he has a slingerless engine.
and im not sure if he's on the same page as me....to get the cover off you dont need to take the clutch out...

 

[bulldog93]

What thats stupid..Well its there for reference...Wait a min I'll put up the tut in a jiffy.

 

[sean01]

http://www.miniriders.com.au/mini-t...r-down-bike-parts-completly-5.html#post244366

try that

 

[bulldog93]

Done.. bottom of page 5 and top of page 6.

Thanks sean01

 

[sean01]

all good...

 

[mitch05]

I may not be good with pulling down motors but i can ride a bike yes i have only ever rebuilt a two stroke but iv been riding 2 stroks and 4strokes for 12 years

 

[sean01]

so how did ya go with taking the cover off?

 

[mitch05]

just took it of now every thing looks brand new no teeth missing so far and now real sign of metal even though there was a little bit in the oil filter

 

[sean01]

ok, you have to inspect everything really good and look for any bent or broken items...

look behind the gears at the case to see if the case is cracked(altho i doubt it)
and look closely at the shift drum(top left) make sure its all in order... it will have little pins in it make sure none of them are broken..also make sure the screw in the center of it hasnt come out or isnt loose

now it may also proof worthy to spin the clutch shaft and use the gearlever(by hand) and go thru the gears just to genralise yourself with how that shift drum works(raise the rear wheel off the ground or take the chain off)....its not rocket science and is actually quite simple...

iv prepared some pics for reference.

if everything looks fine then the motor will have to come out and be completely pulled down...

 

[mitch05]

every thing looks spot on no damage shift drum is all good case is fine and kick start gear assembly is fine

 

[mitch05]

how hard is it to pull down the motor? my local mini shop said to scrap the bike and buy a new one but the bike is brand new i have found a new bottom end upgrade kit for $140 but ill need to put it in my self

 

[sean01]

ok, what brand bike is it? and how much did you pay for it?

scrapping the bike seems a bit harsh considering a new engine is only $500-$600.

doing the bottom end can be a little tricky as it only takes you to put just 1 gearbox shim in the wrong place it will never be the same...

what is your location...maybe someone here could do it for you once the engine is out(id say they would charge you)and you buy the parts unless they have them..

and dont buy anything yet...you dont even know what is broken..

oh and is 1st gear the only gear that is affected?

 

[mitch05]

its only an atomik bigfoot i brought it new only three weeks ago off ebay.
i live in newcastle nsw
yeah it only seemed to be in first i have the motor out of the bike ready for what ever comes next thanks.

 

[sean01]

well its up to you as to what is your next move...

if you choose to repair it yourself just remember to keep everything in order as you take it off..
ie...if you take a gear off then a washer, lay the gear down first face down then the washer on top...
but try and leave all the gearsets in the engine and just remove the RHS case. it will be so much easier to see if anything is misaligned or broken...chances are therell be a broken bit of gear or something in there.
and when you pull the whole gear sets out as one it pays to get large rubber bands to put over each end of the gear shafts to stop gears and washers falling out.


now just remember the whole top end has to come off(head and cylinder) in the tech guides section youll see all the info you need to help you along the way...
one thing tho that doesnt seem to be in there is that while removing the timing gear and chain you must undo a bolt from underneath the engine(just behind the gearlever shaft but pointing down 14mm) doing this releases tension on the cam chain allowing for a easier removal and refit of the cam gear..

oh and DONT destroy the crank while trying take the magneto off...the engine can be split with leaving it on but it is so much easier when its off and out of the way...

hope i havent scared or confused you with my info but it is pretty straight forward...

you will need a new gasket kit...a yx 140 kit is the same...

oh and also...atomik bigfoot with yx150..hmm thats what im repairing today...righthand side case change.. so pretty much everything is fresh in my head for this engine

 

[roost666]

sean01, i have a daytona donk that slips outa 2nd while riding that ive been meaning to fix for ages, also i think the kick start gear is on its way out, do you think i can identify the problems without splitting the cases or do i have to split them?

not trying to hijack ya thread mitch05 just wanted to ask the question

 

[mitch05]

sean01 thanks for all your help mate