Search results

yep. enough taking the pi$$ out of people here or ill be taking the pi$$ out of you when ya cant log back on to MR.. :aetsch:

you would be able to straight after a ride or warm up...

hmmm, all i can see here is one good way to kill a bike totally in no time.... lol there a mini mx bike and from what youve described so far disappoints me big time. expect this bike to fail in every way possible.... and if it doesnt then awesome.... strip everything off that bike and grease...

lol impact driver is one tool needed, but you need a castle nut tool...

your bike already has an expansion chamber but because its a ag/ road trial they dont make them the same as a mx/enduro bike...

T on the magneto @ 12 o'clock (there'll be a mark in the engine case also) cam mark @ 9 o'clock... if that falls you, use a small long screw driver and carefully stick it in the spark plug hole and roll the engine over anti clockwise till the screw driver reaches its highest location... this...

i would say it means 100... what engine you putting the oko on.... 36/100 is good for 150/155/160. 160 you can stretch them to 38/102

read the description for them on there manufacturer page.. you'll clearly see they aren't really a performance item. fcr carbs are prone to accelerator pump problems. ie: quick twist of the throttle and the engine will bog then rev. the quickshot fixes this issue... so does tuning the pump...

the answer to your question is in your ebay link... do minis run an keihin fcr carb??? no... well not unless you fit one...

please use the layout provided in the main section or this thread will be deleted.. also you may want to consider a better price lol....

no a thicker gasket wont make it more reliable.. as for these bore kits, best you put links to them here cause we dont know what your looking at but at a guess your looking at klx style 160 bore that wont fit

first check your valve clearance then clean your carb again and check for air leaks.. blow the carb out with compressed air too.. after that you may need to look at the electrics

the rubber gasket and washer goes in the mixture screw hole... rubber first then washer then spring then screw the mix screw in

oil in the exhaust port.... smoke has to be more blue than white.... top end rebuild time bud

check for a bent gear shaft or shift lever is loose..

in the 140 you need a 59mm bore to give you 155cc or 60mm bore to give 161cc..but.. problem going that big is the head gasket ends up being really really thin next to the barrel studs.. also you need strip the engine completely and bore the cases to fit the over sized bore.. you will also want...

looking good man, im a fan of the crf70 style too... just a little warning tho, those frames wont handle lots of massive air so keep an eye on it..

please use the layout providing in the main wanted section.... cheers

does it have little emblems on the engine case bolts??

of course the shock design is going to be similar. its the spring rate im talking about... you'll more than likely blow the shock out in no time from bottoming it out too much.. as for the chain, well thats your choice.. im not going to sit here and tell you something that is in every chain...