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theres hundreds of threads on this forum regarding wiring and how to test the stator

hmmmm... is this a serious question... you have the bike with the sprocket on it yeah? sprocket size can depend on engine make.... take it off the bike and go to a pit bike store and go from there

1d3u lifan 150.... very odd... oh well hope all goes well from here on in..

yeah its not really a performance gain as such... they remove a lot of torque and simply allow the engine to rev a little faster.... you will have problems stalling all the time as more throttle is needed. youll be revving a lot more to climb hills and things because you have less torque...

50 hrs is a fair bit mate... proper name for what!! the castle nut or the clutch lol riding without the clutch shouldnt hurt the clutch but it can damage the outer little cover on the clutch that sits against the clutch cover... clutch can be rebuilt... but easier to buy a new unit.. i think...

put a pic up mate... your saying on the back of the carb but yet the manifold connects to the front.. but either way a rip or hole in any part is bad news.. if its in front of the carb it will cause a vacuum leak. also obviously the rip is sucking in un filtered air so its a good quick way to...

not anymore :lol_hitting: and mate sit tight surely youll get an answer from them sooner or later... might pay to drop akunar an email... or break out the verniers and stat measuring your cam and springs... dont quote me on this but i think tb race heads use the same cam style...

same ..........................

lol if your on a bush basher youll find they steer best flat... sht even my 450 steers better flat...rough ride tho lol

yeah im with hillz... but if your scared def go a 250, i class 125's as same power output as an 85 with bigger wheels lol. just more top speed, shade more torque.. 125's always need the clutch raping which in return means more clutch replacements lol..

post pics of the engine mate.... sounds like a lian 125 or similar... does it have little symbols on the engine casing bolts...

or the fluid is heating up and expanding by itself.... try putting new fluid thru the system

couple of rums gets me primed for a ride... about 10 more gets me doing stuff id be scared of sober..

depends where you ride but around 15-18psi... on a nice smooth track can go down to 12ish psi.. bush riding... 25-30psi so you dont hit rocks, rutts, holes and sht and pinch the tube.. but steering will suffer

yep... designed by the japs, built by the chinese.... anyways who cares... email classichonda's or terry from firepowermini's and ask what cams and pistons are compatible...

dont bother with the kick starts, they fail in no time on a decent engine. also be careful of the brake and clutch levers, sometimes they require a certain perch and master... the cnc throttle can be bought off ebay for close to same money... forgot to mention.... when buying from china...

ok real important question... are you REALLY sure a moto-x bike is worth spending money on... there one of the most lowest quality level bikes on the market... they have super weak frames which is there biggest let down. then there swingarm is rubber bushed which flog out in no time... by the...

hmmm yr not going to like this advise but anyways... remove it the irk kit and return it or put it in the bin... there the most unreliable product for pit bikes iv ever come across... and for a 140 they offer way too much timing.. not to mention make your bike a pig to ride... you lose...

firstly, 150 head wont fit... daytona 125 share the small crf50 barrel stud spacing... port the head, get a better cam and aim for higher compression... what carb are you running..

i cant see how it could be the geardrum... going by the description of your problem anyways... when you go to get a service tell them about the problem and get hem to diagnose the problem before a service.. otherwise your going to have to pay for a service and still have a problem engine...