Atomik is running terrible - Take a look at the pics

[nafe]

Hey guys im back with a new problem

I just finished putting together the new bikes (a while ago i set up a poll deciding whether i get a atomik or a kx tommahawk) the poll told me nothn so i bought both.

Now after i finish riding the bikes in i hope to give a detailed review on both bikes including pros, cons and comparissons. . .

BUT !! i took the atomik out on the weekend to the laverton motorcross track and putt putted around on the kids track to run a few hours on the bike. To my dismay the bike stuttered and coughd around the track and died out numerous times.

Now this only happened when the bike was hot if anyone is asking yes i changed the oil (twice now as i have done a few hours on the atomik) and no the choke was not on. But when i removed the plug is was fkn hot !! even half an hour after riding.

here is a pic of my spark plug today(see below), it looks rather white. Im guessing a lean mix and thats causing the bike to cough and die out. What would you suggest doing, moving the e-clip or simply adjusting mixture scew ?

any answers or suggestions would help me heaps as i plan to ride the KX (quick turn throttle is just to fun) and my little brother wants to ride the atomik.

(its an atomik proX 250)

 

[nafe]

This is what my garage looks like now, dad isnt to impressed. Probly cant wait till i move out and take all my **** with me

 

[motoXXX]

the prox looks alot better IMO l0l

now to the question

i would move the e clip one to make it more richer take it for a ride see if its better if its alot better but just not quite right then have a play with the air fuel mixture but if when you take it for a ride its not much better move the e clip 1 more to make it a little richer and take it for a ride see how it goes if its nilly right play with the air fuel

well thats what i would do but im not expert

 

[numroe]

This is what my garage looks like now, dad isnt to impressed. Probly cant wait till i move out and take all my **** with me

How cool you bought both.

Mate, if you were my boys, I'd be proud of you! Dirt bikes rule! Some parents don't get it. Mine never did when I was a youngster. Never mind I am free now.

Okay the jetting. Search for articles on this site and planetminis. You did not say what amount of throttle opening you were at when it died. But no matter, you should be able to work it out.

Some ideas (real tuners pls correct me):

If not too dusty carefully test with the air filter off, or at least a good filter which is lightly oiled.
Take spare plugs next time out.
Plug chop tests are best for the main jet in a tall gear at WOT.
ID your type of jets (mikuni or Keihin) and buy some spare mains and slows.
Feel and listen for lean (hesitant) versus rich (rough and deep). On decel when lean they can pop a little out the exhaust too.
ID the carbie type. Air screw in inlet side or some other mongrel? Post a clear close up pic of the carb.
Check throttle and choke systems work okay.
Drain float bowl 100% and check enough fuel pours out the bowl exit if fuel tape open.

Some people (me at times) go the the needle first. Sometimes too easy. But prob better to try:

1) Up the idle speed stopper screw a bit.
2) Adjust air screw. If cannot get joy in the range or 1 to 2.5 turns then install a new slow (pilot) jet.
3) Set the main jet. Do a plug chop test on a new plug (clean filter too!).
4) Fine tune on the needle.
5) Go back to step 2 and further tune if not happy.
6) Set idle speed for the amount of engine braking you want.

I wrote screw+slow adj first just because it easier to test the main if the damn thing can start and get off the mark.

 

[nafe]

has anyone moved the e-clip on a pro x without taking the carby off? and also . . is this a common problem, the atomiks need tuning straight out of the box?

 

[numroe]

has anyone moved the e-clip on a pro x without taking the carby off? and also . . is this a common problem, the atomiks need tuning straight out of the box?

If you can take the slide out without removing or turning the carbie, then great. Easier. Some bikes you can, other bikes you must rotate the carb or remove the carbie from the inlet. Once the slide is out, the the clip is "yours". Just be ultra careful to clean the bike above and around the carbie before you work on it, so no dirt falls in when the slide cover if off.

And no probs, you are welcome for my previous attempt to help you.

 

[nafe]

Thanks numroe, i took off the seat and realised i could remove the carby if need be but i decided to adjust the mixture screw for now.

at the same time i found another defect in the atomik design. The fuel tap position requires the fuel line to run along the cylinder head (getting very hot) and possibply vapourising the fuel. Also i fould a hardcore kink in the fuel line due to the sub standard fuel lines being tough plastic - not rubber.

i removed the fuel tap (hoping that i wont need it in the future) and repositioned the fuel lines away from the head. it now has a nice curve in it instead of the 145degree angle the fuel line was on.

here is a pic of how the fuel line was bent in the first place, something for people to look out for when you get your atomik 250 Pro

i took it for a quick ride around the block a couple times, everythin seems to be going fine. no spluttering or dying so all is clear for the time being.

 

[Oodlawirra]

Check the fuel level in the carby, if it's to high the bike will die,snuff when hot. The carby bowl should have between 1/3 to just under 1/2 full

 

[1fifty1wheel]

Check the fuel level in the carby, if it's to high the bike will die,snuff when hot. The carby bowl should have between 1/3 to just under 1/2 full

hmmm i have a feeling it would have been sorted by now, considering the last reply was 4 months ago