How to setup a Rec Reg kit

[xLOCOx]

if i read your posts correctly if i run a capacitor i dont need a battery?

 

[xLOCOx]

now im starting to think i should run a battery

 

[my67xr]

a custom led may be too dear, i think it'll be around $40, but wont know until i order the parts, and make it all up
then it needs to be tuned to get the best light from it. etc etc.

yeah correct on the capacitor, it is used instead of a battery.
do a search on ebay, under battery eliminators, then refine the search to just motorcycles

the smaller battery eliminators they sell, are the same capacitor as the one i linked earlier,
most sellers wont show the side with the writing on it, so nobody can try to find that part number
the best ones for a motorcycle have screw on connections, then you can simply screw down the positive and negative lead terminals to secure the wiring.



i have ordered one from China, i will try it out when it arrives.
i have priced them locally, and best price i could get was $45 for 1 capacitor

 

[xLOCOx]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-Y...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3382b206a8&vxp=mtr


or a 7.2ah battery?
i may go look at one

 

[xLOCOx]

technically if i get a battery it may brighten up a bit ....... i think

 

[my67xr]

the capacitor or a battery will make the regulator supply the correct voltage and charge either too.
a capacitor is actually better than a battery imo.

a capacitor is smaller, lighter, more powerful, doesn't need to be serviced by adding water, it is spill proof,
and be mounted in any position, will last for around 20 or more years if a decent brand one is bought.

 

[my67xr]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-Y...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3382b206a8&vxp=mtr

the one i have ordered is about the same as the one in your link, but is 1/10th of the price of that.

 

[my67xr]

also when using a sealed lead acid battery (SLA)
they need to be kept at a minimum charge of 12.6 volts, otherwise they will prematurely fail.

a good capacitor can be left uncharged for 10+ years , start up the bike and it will recharge in under 20 seconds and be ready to use.



i have a pic comparing some batterys etc

left back battery-
12v 7AH SLA battery. dimensions are 150mm wide, 65mm deep, and 100mm high
this weighs 2.54 kgs, and cost around $30

centre back battery-
12v 2.9AH SLA battery, dimensions are 80mm wide, 55mm deep, 110mm high
weighs 1.3kg, cost around $25

right rear battery-
6V 4.5AH, approx same dimensions as the 12V, 2.9AH above, but with almost twice the capactiy.
weighs about 1.25kg, cost around $20

front left capacitor-
pic for size reference only, 40 Volt maximum, 27,000uf, screw on terminals, 60mm high, 45 mm wide (a bit bigger than a 'D' cell battery)
weight 130grams, cost around $15 for a decent brand if sourced from O/S, or about $40 locally

front right capacitor-
pic for size reference only, 40v maximum, 10,000uf, solder on fly leads, height 50mm, 35 wide (around same size as a 'C' cell battery)
weight 100grams, cost around $10 locally, or about $5 from O/S

 

[motodevo]

I agree with xr, capacitor is better than a battery, if you need a battery it means either you have too much load/not enough wattage out of the stator. Adding a battery doesn't really solve the issue, just prolongs it as the system will drain the battery and your back to square one, if you dont have enough juice to power what you have then you wont have anything to charge the battery

 

[my67xr]

md, the regulator need a load to enable them to work properly
a capacitor is the best option, but if you want to use the lights etc with the engine off the capacitor wont last as long as a battery, unless you use a very big one, (expensive)

 

[xLOCOx]

ok have 5ah battery laying around perfect size
ill run the stator wires to the battery then the inlet to the rectifier i'll put a switch in
hope you under stand me lol

 

[xLOCOx]

holy crap it just fits, like the seat has to be forced down to get the screws in

 

[my67xr]

i hope you mean you'll run the red output wire, from the regulator/rectifier, to the battery positive with a fuse in between them
then the batterys' negative terminal to earth.

 

[xLOCOx]

#1 or #2?
i thinks what your saying is #2 ?

 

[my67xr]

definately the bottom one, #2


the first pic will be putting 12 + AC volts directly into a 12v DC battery, it wont last long before it possibly explodes

 

[xLOCOx]

good thinking i dont want a ticking time bomb under my arse i'll see if i can go to jaycar tomorrow and get a switch
something like this ..... : http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ST0581

 

[my67xr]

you dont need a switch,
just make sure there's a fuse inbetween the positive battery terminal, and the positive output from the reg/rect.



and don't try wiring the AC stator directly to the DC battery, it will fry the battery.

 

[xLOCOx]

but my tail light will run the battery down it will be on constantly

 

[my67xr]

ok, i see why you want a switch then,
you could always pull the negative terminal off at the battery, if you can get to it ?

 

[xLOCOx]

thats just way to difficult i think i may have even have a spare switch laying around so i will be hopefully fixing this issue tomorrow fingers crossed