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aero165

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Hey guys,

Great forum you've got going here.

I'm after some info in regards to the Atomik Nitrous 160, Yamoto HSR160 ,DHZ DPRO160 (Or similar) and other 160cc china bikes.

Firstly I ask, if you're 12 and your parents bought you a bit bike and you hopped on it without doing any initial set up work and thrashed it till it died please, please, please don't reply to this post with "these bikes are sh*t, don't waste your money. etc..

Myself and the missus are looking for a couple of bikes to hoot around on and slap a pair of motard wheels on and hit Archerfield for a cheap trackday fix.

About 3 years ago I used to race minimotos. Before I bought one I did some research to find the best bike. Eventually I figured out everyone was essentially selling the same bike with only minor differences and each using their own sales pitch like "This bike is the best on the market for *insert reason here*" I ended up settling on a B1 rep, rebuilt the entire motor with good quality bearings and had a great racing season trouble free.

The main question I want to ask is, are bikes like the Yamoto HSR160 and the Atomik Nitrous 160 essentially the same bike with a different marketing pitch? And if I was to buy an Atomik and do some work to the bike like bearings, spark plug, fluid, new bolts etc would I end up with a bike similar to the DHZ?

Sorry for the long post.

Please, genuine replies only.

Aaron
 
hey mate, welcome to miniriders

so your after a weekend basher?

if you are, i'd go a atomik nitrous.
there cheap but not a bad bike, atomik are starting to produce better bikes and adding more to the scene. if you maintain it (which im sure you will) you would be fine.

cheers mate
hope i could help :D
 
Hey Viper, thanks for your reply. Yeah, weekend basher sounds right.

Looking after the bike isn't an issue, I've been riding bikes all my life. The point of the pit bike is just to have some good, cheap fun without sliding my R1 or the wifes 600 down the road/track.
 
yes is the answer to your question , there all much of a muchness when your talking the bottom end bikes , set up is better that way as your into different things that the top end bikes wouldnt be suited for unless you made changes , hence change a cheapo and save a few bucks

i had a Atomik a long time ago , looked after it , it never let me down , sold it for 300 less than i paid

have fun
 
I'd go the dhz, it may cost more but the quality of parts is better and aftersales service is alot better. But i also hear atomik are stepping up their game, as for yamoto i wouldnt bother
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I understand that with the Atomik you're pretty much just buying the engine. The plan is to eventually buy new bars, levers, kickstart, etc etc.

Would a decently set up Atomik YX160cc keep up with some of the other mini motards on the track at archerfield?

Also what sort of service intervals does the bike need and after how many hours should I be considering rebuilding the engine? Please keep in mind I do plan on lovingly thrashing my bike... If that makes sense
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I understand that with the Atomik you're pretty much just buying the engine. The plan is to eventually buy new bars, levers, kickstart, etc etc.

Would a decently set up Atomik YX160cc keep up with some of the other mini motards on the track at archerfield?

Also what sort of service intervals does the bike need and after how many hours should I be considering rebuilding the engine? Please keep in mind I do plan on lovingly thrashing my bike... If that makes sense

If you set up the Atomik well you will certainly keep up with the majority of bikes at Archy (just don't expect to be lapping with No_CRF and Londin as they are seriously quick (and have performed serious engine massaging).

It sounds like you are more than comfortable doing some work on the bike, so I say grab a Nitrous, grab the basics to get it running on the track (wheels, larger front rotor, crash protection, throttle, OKO carb), do the set up work and get out there. There is heaps of info in the motard section. The only recommendation I would have is to look out for a Nitrous mid size as it will be a lot more stable on the track (and better off road too).

Considering the engine only holds around a liter of oil, I change it every second run... It comes out fairly clean, so you could probably stretch that out a little. In stock form you're going to get a fair run out of it before needing a rebuild, some of the other guys that have been running these engines longer can tell you, but I understand that some of them have had them in hard use for years. If you add a V2 head and piston etc you're looking at ~10-15hrs.

I've been riding since I was seven so the bike gets a fairly hard (but smooth) run... BarnesD will be able to give you a better impression of the 160 though.

Questions? :)
 
Krazed! Great reply!

What would be some of the main things on the Atomik I'd need to sort out before I started it up?

Cheers,

Aaron
 
Krazed! Great reply!

What would be some of the main things on the Atomik I'd need to sort out before I started it up?

Cheers,

Aaron

Just the basics really, grease the heck out of everything, locktite and tighten all bolts, change the oil, set the valve clearances, oil the air filter, replace the chain with a DID or RK one, kick it over, run it in :)

Have a read of this and this, that should cover everything setup related... Feel free to +reps ;)
 
After doing some research I've learned that there are 2 kinds of YX150cc engines. Apparently one is easier to upgrade than the other, CRF/KLX or something... Does this affect the YX160cc engine too?
 
After doing some research I've learned that there are 2 kinds of YX150cc engines. Apparently one is easier to upgrade than the other, CRF/KLX or something... Does this affect the YX160cc engine too?

Nope, Atomik only sell the KLX headed XY160 so you'll be open to more mods :)
 
i dint agree with krazed the atomik is ok for the bang for buck type of bike but from past experience you will spend just as much time working on it as riding it. as fun as this is it's not my thing i like riding.

another point is the hsr and dhz are midsize bikes are they not? or is that the dhz outlaw i'm thinking of regardless its worth looking at if your a normal size bloke the extra room to move will help you in the corners a little.

the hsr is pretty good from a suspension point of view the dhz is a close second to that the nitrous suspension is junk and it cant be fixed without replacing it altogether

hope this gives a different point of view for ya

coolie
 
the hsr has a dnm shock and fully adjustable forks. the dhz has had frame problems which you can search on this this site. the atomik has never had a good name or parts back up. the hsr has a life time warranty on the frame, 3 months on the engine, suspension and brakes. not even the jap mx bikes come close to the hsr warranty. as the old saying goes- you get what yoy pay for.
 
dhz have since upgraded their frames as the top shock mount was bending.. no faults since the upgrade took place..
3 months on the engine... hope you dont go broke as the gearboxes are as reliable as a 2 bob watch..
and brakes, on my where do i start.. yet to see a rear china brake setup last that long.. fronts have never been an issue tho..

the HSR160 (crf70 style) looks pretty good tho.. so its a tough call between it and the comparable DHZ bike.

if there was pricing on the hsr/yamoto website then it would probly be easy to choose..
 
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dhz have since upgraded their frames as the top shock mount was bending.. no faults since the upgrade took place..
3 months on the engine... hope you dont go broke as the gearboxes are as reliable as a 2 bob watch..
and brakes, on my where do i start.. yet to see a rear china brake setup last that long.. fronts have never been an issue tho..

the HSR160 (crf70 style) looks pretty good tho.. so its a tough call between it and the comparable DHZ bike.

if there was pricing on the hsr/yamoto website then it would probly be easy to choose..

good to see dhz upgraded the frames so quickly. you would have to say that either of the bikes will serve you well as long as you set it up correctly the first time and look after the bike. as for pricing on the website just give them a call. only chumps pay the advertised price anyway.:)
 
HSR160 is $2000. To me it just seems like a Atomik Nitrous160 with KLX plastics on it.

I'm still leaning more towards the nitrous and upgrading parts when I please/when they fall off.
 
What do nitrous's sell for or do they still auction them off?
 
RRP is something like $1200 but they're going going ebay for around the $600-$700 mark.

I've got one more question. I think this is the last

I'm a deadset Yamaha fan. First bike was a PW50 when I was 4 and I've owned and loved a gazillion Yamahas amongst other bikes since then.

My question is...

Can you swap the CRF 70 style body on the Atomik for something more like HSR175 which has the YZF kinda body work. I think that bike would look the bee knees with some blue plastics and a factory sticker kit.

2011 HSR 175 pro :: Yamoto
 
HSR160 is $2000. To me it just seems like a Atomik Nitrous160 with KLX plastics on it.

I'm still leaning more towards the nitrous and upgrading parts when I please/when they fall off.

If it has KLX plastics on it it will have a bigger frame/swing arm/forks than the Nitrous.

If you're looking to spend closer to $2k there are much better bikes available than a Nitrous... TBH in that price range I'd just buy this and try to swap the dual exhaust for a big bore exhaust and a better rear shock (don't forget to tell Ken you're a Miniriders guy!) :)

You couldn't build a mid size Nitrous into anything like that for the same money.

Can you swap the CRF 70 style body on the Atomik for something more like HSR175 which has the YZF kinda body work.

No you can't... The HSR is running TTR style plastics, they aren't compatible with CRF50/70 mounts.
 
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