My bike (141cc DHZ)

[dhz138]

hey people..

ok, now my bike is completey to bits.. i plan on..

-Boreing the 127cc (54 x 5.5) to 141cc (57 x 55.5)
-7.0mm High lift Cam - A1 sprocket for bottom end
-High Comp Piston 57mm
-Inner Rotor Kit
-China Blue performance CDI
-17 & 37t sprocket ratio
-New gearbox (N1234) - spare actually
-hydraulic clutch
-CNC 1/4 turn throttle
-GENUINE BBR exhaust - maybe D-section ? - $500....
-PWK FLATSLIDE CARB 30MM - BIGGER JETS - TBA..
-Another oil cooler - SO ILL HAVE TWIN OIL COOLED.

anyone got any idea on if ill have thoes problems with the kick start smashing out the crank caseing ?

I should flog the stock 140cc.. of cause.. ive got a smaller stroke, bigger bore. plus a shiznak load of other crap

All up its going to cost about $900 for all the new bits inc boreing.. (NOT INC COST OF NEW EXHAUST)

The exhaust isnt coming from china, i plan on getting one from BBR motorsport.. As i read a small article about how chinese exhaust are pointless..

So for $1600 inc the bike cost, ill have one sick as pitty..

plus i think about an extra 100 things (90% of this stuff is coming direct from the china manufacturers)

Ill take some pics of

 

[cass38a]

It will rev higher than a stock 140 and may have a better top end but with a 17 front and 37 rear i doubt you will beat one off the line (I hope you do as you are spending a few $$$ but a 140cc would be a better starting point IMO)

 

[Divy]

i thought id just say you said your puting a irk on and a performance cdi but the irk will not run with the blue cdi, the cdi that comes with the irk is designed to work with the irk

 

[mr_sikma]

sounds nuts mate!

 

[Le|Garage]

The twin oilcooler idea has been a throw up discussion on many american forums, a guy found that the two oil coolers lowered the temperature of the oil too much, and therefore it did not reach optium operating temperature which could have harmed the engine..

The blue cdi, cannot be used with the inner rotor kit..

if you have the 1N234 gear box, it can be made N1234 quite easily, it's not the gears, but the shift star and drum

remember when going with a high lift cam like that, you'll be snapping valve springs easy..I reccomend kimblewhite crf450 inlet valve springs and kitaco/takegawa exhaust (this combination has been proven at around 13k rpm)

With that engine still, i wouldn't be going any bigger then 28mm...i'm running a 149cc setup (56x61.5) and i think it would have been wiser to go 26mm

Remember, most of the hp is made in the head, so i'd be looking at bigger valves (28/24) is a nice drop in size

but nevertheless i think that 57x55.5mm will rev nicely. (ps, standard lifan cylinder can only be safely bored out to 56mm)

As with the cases smashing, i have been running my stroker/high comp piston with an inner rotor and lightened oil sling for quite some time and it seems to be holding up fine, just make sure you take a full kick at TDC.

 

[cass38a]

The motovert outlaw runs twin oil coolers, I dont think that it would be easy to "over cool" the oil or engine as these things run pretty hot. You could change your oil to a different viscosity if you thought it was not heating up enough and twin coolers look pretty cool so I would still use them.

 

[dhz138]

hey

whys the 30mm carb on a bigger bore a bad idea ?

im runing the 30mm right now and its fine..

wouldnt their be a power loss just using the 26mm carb ?

i was thinking of a 30mm flatslide carb

 

[Le|Garage]

It depends what "30" mm carby you use, the 30mm mikuni sold on ebay as far as i am aware has an oval slide, and is not genuine 30mm...round slide 30mm (like the oko, keihin) would be too much for a thumpstar engine...

26 would be a nice size, as it's an upgrade from 22mm (even though their advitised as 25mm, oval slide..)

As for the motovert outlaw running 2 oil coolers, yes on the site it shows that, but i know a guy who ordered a motovert outlaw and recieved 1 oil cooler nothing like the one pictured..