Search results

yeah i read the other thread before this thread popped up... unfortunately its not always as easy as everyone's said.. this is a 125 engine so a 110 clutch will have a hard time, hence the reason i suggested a tb race clutch.. the kit from dhz is not a complete kit, couple of items...

well firstly is the clutch arm for the cable at the front of the motor or the top? if its front mounted then your in luck.. being a 125 engine id run a tb semi auto race clutch. then you'll have to source a clutch cover, gear shift shaft with the arm and also the pieces that sit in the middle...

i do them at work from time to time.. as above... m10 x 1.0 pitch normal helicoil is fine.. you can get them in a couple of lengths so if you get one longer you'll have to shorten it..

id be checking normal stuff.. fuel tank breather valve clearance exhaust gasket spark plug then manifold gaskets and air filer..

yr going to have to describe yr problem a little better mate.. is it the head gasket or the cam cover gasket that youve replaced? if its the head gasket and it keeps blowing then maybe the head stud nuts are bottoming out causing bad head bolt tension.. if this is the case youll need to...

blown head gasket can cause it too.. no option but to start pulling it apart and inspect closely..

the ratio difference isnt actually in the gearbox.. the gears on both the crank and clutch basket are different... but yeah i also prefer the latest setup... gears are a lot closer.

it wont have any carbon build up on the washed area.. may be shinny or just clean but still coloured

could be the stator coil or ignition coil.. when there bad they can become unstable when they heat up... but yeah the red cdi's on the irk's are poo.. change the ignition coil and see if not then throw the irk in the bin and replace it with a standard unit or outer rotor kit..

could be the stator coil or ignition coil.. when there bad they can become unstable when they heat up... but yeah the red cdi's on the irk's are poo.. change the ignition coil and see if not then throw the irk in the bin and replace it with a standard unit or outer rotor kit..

compression test doesnt really tell the oil control ring condition.. if the breather was blocked and forced oil past the rings then theres a good chance the bore is now glazed.. if the engine isnt that old pull it apart rehone the cylinder and just reuse the rings.. or for the little bit of...

most already know this but the lxr is also made in the same factory as these 2.. either 3 are a great choice but id still go the lxr.. also noticed on the motovert web site that they advertise steel rims, typo maybe? never seen one in the flesh so not sure!!!

yep im backing the lxr.. the linkage system is far better than other similar setups

iv never come across a small valve 140 head. if it was a 125 then id say yeah as for telling the difference... 2 bolt tappet covers usually mean big valve screw in tappet covers like genuine crf50's are small valve

yep i can confirm evolution motorcycles have closed down...

id be checking for slight intake valve bend... apart from that there couldn't be too much more.. you've covered all other bases.. and a 102 in an oko on a stock 160/155 is fine up here... but please remember everyone's climates are different so it too changes a tune...

mate can you please use the layout provided in the wanted section..

this is great news. good to see ya,s back DHZ

yeah there good, but wat im saying is be careful because they sell both versions...

im using an lxr swingarm mate... revmx and similar swingarms are thin as and i didnt trust it.. plus the lxr swinga is a tad longer..