160cc 16hp?!

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I have a 160 with an akunar 61.25 piston (168cc) with an akunar race head and it flies in my x4r. Probably around 17 hp and have had no trouble with gearbox or clutch. The stock 160 would be around 11.5-12hp with slightly more torque than the 150.
 
Its been proved in the USA...these motors are reliable

countell people run 165BBK's on em with v2 heads no problem....178 SCUT kit and no problem

Its actually been proven that they are really unreliable not in stock form! if i can find the dam link i will post up soon. (something about 1 guy thats blown about 6 of em?) (he makes them for his riders) (so they were probably thrashed)
But Still!!
 
Anything will last if its not thrashed. Cant see there being any problems with the fitment atleast and settle down with the langauage
 
hahaha its pretty funny out of all the people in this thread you choose sus1 to be the smartest haha :)

the yx150 will be fine! if you leave it stock most probly run as long as you want..... but then if your gonna leave it stock go the LIFAN as its the better 150cc.
the yx160 have not heard much about them so couldn't tell you anything about reliability
 
Not catholic, just keeping in mind the kids on the site. I swear like a trooper meself but not in front of kids
 
Another thread which reckons they last 1-2 hours modded with the V-2 heads etc

178 SCUT on YX150 - Planet Minis

IF it's any consolation ...... Jap Hondas ALSO cop crank , kick starter , and tranny problems when highly modified .......

XR100 high HP crank & trans shaft breakage. Clutch. Dynos in So CA? - ThumperTalk

Most of the problems are created by people modding what's well known to drag racers and race engine builders as "Green" engines ..... For instance , THEY will not modify a brand new engine because they KNOW that the parts have not been heat treated and stress relieved and that they'll move around and change shape a lot until they settle over time .... Instead they'll start off with a Chev block that's done 100,000 easy miles in a truck .... that way they know that the engine hasn't been stressed by high revs or had any blow ups and the parts have been methodically heated and cooled and are now tougher and will hold their shape .... plus the fact that the engine is still running tells them that a lot of unknown factors are right with that particular engine ..... People don't see the countless new engines that went back to the dealers with warranty problems ... it's all hidden very well from the general public ....

IF you are going to build a "race" engine , you'd better have a really good understanding of all the factors involved .... Outright race engine parts are heat treated and stress relieved to work and survive from new .... Race engines are also precision machined and balanced to survive high rpm use .... even so .... NASCAR type engines that are held at sustained high revs live a very , very short life even with the BEST of components ..... It's not uncommon to find stress cracks all over the place in them after only a few big races .......

People modifying their own engines from stock are merely encountering all of the factors that are well known by race engineers ..... and they must be sitting back having a good old laugh at the "race" modifiers on pit bike and motorcycle forums ...

Modified or even raced new motors are like taking a pick from a lucky dip ...... some may strike it lucky with a good one and suck sweet sherbert ...... while countless others will bite the dust and suck rotten eggs .....

The main thing is that you have fun trying .... and don't dwell on the bitter taste in your mouth if you fail :p

Here's another link on automotive physics that may be of help to the people who advance the timing of their IRK's in order to get better power up top ...

They are damaging their engines and don't even realise it ....... The ONLY way to do it safely is to fit a fully programmable digital ignition .... and use something to check the advance at ALL revs right throughout the entire rev range ....... it only takes over advance at one point to do damage ...... This guy explains it really well ...

Physics In an Automotive Engine
 
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The guy who wrote that engine physics thread is brilliant !!!!!! If you read thru it you'll learn stacks ..... everything he says is SPOT ON ...... And he explains it all so well ..... Any young person who learns all that and understands it will have a flying head start when they leave school and go into a trade .....
 
great read ...again...where do you find these things , Jack....?:eek:
You got waaaaay too much time on your hands:p :cool:
 
yer seriously if i tried to search for that site would take me till i was a old man , i have saved it and will read the rest when i have like a spare 5 hours!!
 
great read ...again...where do you find these things , Jack....?:eek:
You got waaaaay too much time on your hands:p :cool:

Well I already know most of all that stuff in the physics thread from years of studying and learning (tech , science and trade courses plus hands on modding and tuning experience) ..... It's easy to find things when you know what you're looking for ..... When I "stumble" across a good link I bookmark it to use as back up ammo for when I encounter engine "experts" who try to argue .....

Most people wouldn't have a clue that those factors even exist and go thru life like ostriches with their heads in the sand ........ if I can get just ONE of those "ostriches" to pull their head out of the sand , then it's all worth while ....... :p

Philosophers are like Fred Hollows ...... their main aim is to give sight to the blind .......
 
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It´s definitely good to have you here on the board, dude !!;)
 

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