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See I want to keep a somewhat orig appearance as far as the factory knows what fits and works best lol. But the engine exhaust tires and such? All getting improved

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My in shop assistant/mouser. I'm not much of a cat person.....but he's no ordinary housecat his father is a bobcat and he's 27lbs and thinks he's a dog

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As with the pics on page four (god I talk a lot) I used brillo pads and a thick set of steel scrubbers from the dollar store to clean up the used forks came out actually better than I thought

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Ugg notes to think of when installing plastics....clean oil from hands first

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page 4 ?
you must have the default setting's still.
you can change it to 40 posts per page if you want, go into settings below your username (top left of the page)
so to me you have just got onto page 2
it saves lots of page changes, scrolling with the bigger threads etc

with the headlight, i run a 35w/35w bulb as my bike see's a lot of high rpm work
the standard lights are 15w/15w or 25w/25w, and if the tail light blows it could burn out your headlight bulb.
with the 35w/35w's i don't have that problem anymore

if you still have the standard headlight switch,
pull it apart and clean up the brass contacts in there and put some bulb/dielectric grease on them, and your kill switch too
 
i noticed in the background of one pic,
there's a Boyesen sticker on your tank, is there Boyesen's bolted up under your barrel ?
a set of Carbon Fibre reeds woke mine up a bit
 
As with any paint on plastic it kept chipping none too easy but with the rides I do? Nah cleaning the tank off prob gonna look into a vinyl sticker set or talk to a decal shop we have in nc into making a custom set

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Yeah I have boyesens on it atm. I don't trust steel reeds at all. God I hate sounding like a braggart and I esp am self conscious of my work hence no documented engine work atm. All I can say is I do bike work and small engines work on the side and I've already put my time in on the engine and I'm feeling it should be where I want it.

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I do not have a headlight switch........dang I was wondering about that lmao I don't even really have the taillight nvm the rear fender lol. Previous owner.....was not keen on ANY upkeep for all I know the fender fell off years before he stopped riding and dropping parts lol. I wish I had some full before pics to show this thing was missing a lot.

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And yes I edit posts right after posting time to time please bear with me having asphergers sux.

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Old pic self cut jug gasket with reeds installed. Since then jugs been honed ect.
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Ok well took some time off today as working night shift last night(Thursday)=my friday . First day of the weekend I ended up having to visit lowes get some hardware for the brand new coil lost the old flywheel key however the nice part of having a shop is I stock up on common parts I've got a big box oh flywheel keys.

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I've come a bit to a stop does anyone know on the wiring where the two ends that connect to screws go? I know one bolts on the coil.....the other the crankcase maybe?
I've got a blac with yellow stripe and a black with white stripe
 
from memory there is an earth that goes to a coil mounting bolt,
then the black w/red is power to the coil terminal

the black w/white stripe was the earth for the kill switch ?
 
I got it out of memory from other bikes. The black white goes to coil bolt wire was too short for anything else black yellow grounded on the engine. Red was already conn. And kill switch works had it running.......but the float which it IS NOT the needle or seat it seems like every forum is obsessed with that or telling you to get a "real bike" ( which one of mine they wanna call real? Ktm xc350 yamaha yz250 suzuki rm 125 that's faster than a street bike thanks to engine build) the float height is off and its been leaking more than its burning. And the freaking slide is sticking like hell
 
BUT IT RUNS first time since god knows when and with upgrades sounds somewhat fine just can't control the throttle nor stopthe leaking
 
the flats on the float should be parrallel to the carby base when it is upside down,
and the tip of the needle just touching the centre tab on the float arm
the correct float height for a VM22-133 is 24mm-26mm

 
with the throttle sticking, as well as the obvious things, check that the Needle isn't slightly bent too
 
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