2008 Atomik Blitz 250 review

[AtomikMilkman]

cheers for the reply thump! I got a barrel of **** to say about this bike! I put in a warranty form to atomik about my forks and got back to me today saying they will need to replace the forks altogether, as they can't get the seals in stock! lol! They'll be shipping them to me asap! So that makes things a little easier in that department.
I also took your advice and purchased some 05-07 yz fork guards. They are so different to the atomik ones in that they're actually good and don't rub on the dust seal!
Just today, I greased up the suspension linkages and swing arm to get rid of a squeak everytime I sat on the bike. I used spray on lithium grease i picked up from Autobarn. Good stuff! goes in thin and dries on thick, and won't wash off! Also had to weld on a new bracket supporting the exhaust pipe as it broke last ride, causing the exhaust to rattle against the engine.
I also received some sealsavers I purchased from ebay which I will be putting on the new forks when they arrive. Oh, and i also received my new racing cdi, I purchased of ebay aswell. Question, is there anything I should know and do before putting it on?

 

[Sneaky88]

Hey bud,

i was reading your review, it was very detailed thanks for the time and effort.
I just wanted to ask you a couple of quick questions about the blitz...
Is the review looking at the Blitz250m that is on the Atomik website for $1990.00???
i am only starting out but i have rode before both 125 and 250s but have not been riding for a few years and when i rode those bikes it wasnt for long periods of time. Would this blitz be a good start to get into the market as i wanted a full size bike and not a pit bike and i didnt want to spend thousands of $$$$
Alot of ppl talk down on the atomik brand... Is there anything wrong with is or is it just because it is a China bike...
Would you have any other suggestions for a full size bike that would be a good start for me???

Thanks for any suggestions...

 

[AtomikMilkman]

oh and on the carby thing, I think the blitz has a 30mm carby according to their website. Do you think having a genuine mikuni to a copy will make any difference?

 

[AtomikMilkman]

Hey Sneaky88, what I've experienced with people putting down the bike is it's because it's a china and they don't know a damn thing about bang for buck! so screw 'em all! the blitz is good, and yes, he is refering to the 250m for $1990. I have to say, if you live locally in the Melbourne area, you should check out Dandy Dirt Bikes in Hallam. They have an exact copy of the blitz, however it comes complete with headlight, tail light, indicators, digital speedo and switching for $2200. Had I known about it before my atomik purchase, I would've gone for it. Check it out if you get the chance. It's called "The Bull" 250.

Look, the blitz and others like it is perfect if your starting out as I am, however, be prepared to get your hands dirty fixing and adjusting things here and there. You really can't get better bang for you buck anywhere else.

 

[thump*140]

yeah sneaky, i have to agree with atomikmilkman... the blitz is a great bike, especially for the price... it looks like they've gone up a bit since i got mine a couple of months back though.. paid $1300 for mine.. heh heh..
like atomikmilkman said, they are a brilliant bike for someone who is just starting out, and wants a genuine fullsize bike. (these things are huge!! same size as a YZ-F450..) you can basically go two ways with it. buy it, ride it, thrash it, and end up with a worn out bike in a short amount of time, or you can spend the time on it before riding it like i did, and sort the problems before you do any damage... as stated before, there is NO oil or grease anywhere... anything that rotates, pivots, moves, or has a linkage on it, take it apart, and grease the bejesus out of it.. especially the headstem bearings, and rear shock pivot... get rid of the stock fork guards before you ride it, and replace them with 06-09 YZF yamaha items. change the main jet in the carby for a #100 main, not the stock #130 they come with. change the oil before you even start the thing...
it looks like parts for atomiks can be a bit tricky to get, hence the reason for doing the spannerwork before you start riding it... it will save you money in the long term... (reliability-wise... breakages cant be helped, but it looks like yamaha and honda parts slide on pretty easy.. ie: plastics from YZF's, levers etc from honda pitties..)

oh ATOMIKMILKMAN, glad the ideas and advice were helpful... surprising how much difference the yz fork guards make over rough ground... takes a lot of stiction away from the fork action..
as for fitting the cdi unit, the only problem i had was that the connectors were of different shapes... one was for twin "round" plug connectors (on the cdi unit) and the bikes wiriing loom has twin "square" plug connectors.. that and the "250" class hi rev cdi's tend to be bigger, and are trickier to find space to wedge in... mine is clamped in under the airbox... thrashed it on beaches over new years, yet to get it wet, so it looks reasonably protected thus far...
hey got a question though... how is the action on the rear suspension on your bike, particularly in the linkages.... mine has really bad tolerances, and rattles like a *******, especially over rough ground.. makes the ride action pretty clunky... yours that bad?? or did i just get dodgy linkages?

 

[themountain]

oh and on the carby thing, I think the blitz has a 30mm carby according to their website. Do you think having a genuine mikuni to a copy will make any difference?

...it makes aaaaaaall the difference , believe me ...and I don´t want to bust your bubble ,but the "Racing" CDI´s do jacksh!t...could easily spare that cash for a better carb!!

 

[motorman]

Will be intresting to see how this goes against the new Motovert 250 coming out this year. I have had experiences with the last 2 years Pitpro 250's (wouldn't touch one again now) and had nothing but problems. Even with preventitive maintenance. I love my china's, but they were the biggest POS bikes I have ever seen. Not designed for Australian conditions.

 

[AtomikMilkman]

Cheers for that mountain, I might look into getting a genuine mikuni 30mm carb then. As for your question Thump, mine rattles like a mf too! I think they are just crap to begin with.

 

[JOEL10]

hey guys
i have a horrible vibrating which makes a rank noise when i rev my bike i took it to a dirtbike mechanic and he said it was the engine mount bolts so i replaced them with good quality bolts spring washers and teflon locking nuts then i even used loctite to be safe but the sound was still there any ideas or similar problems?

 

[AtomikMilkman]

hey guys
i have a horrible vibrating which makes a rank noise when i rev my bike i took it to a dirtbike mechanic and he said it was the engine mount bolts so i replaced them with good quality bolts spring washers and teflon locking nuts then i even used loctite to be safe but the sound was still there any ideas or similar problems?

hey man, you sure it's not something else? my exhaust bracket broke after the first ride and caused the exhaust to touch the engine and vibrate through the revs. I also heard someone talking about it and couldn't get rid of it, even after replacing the bolts. I have to say mine isn't making too much of a vibrating noise since i fixed the exhaust bracket. i also haven't changed the bolts on the engine mounts yet. Try holding the revs and pressing on a few areas around and on the engine to see if the sound gets dampened.

 

[thump*140]

hey guys
i have a horrible vibrating which makes a rank noise when i rev my bike i took it to a dirtbike mechanic and he said it was the engine mount bolts so i replaced them with good quality bolts spring washers and teflon locking nuts then i even used loctite to be safe but the sound was still there any ideas or similar problems?

have a look while you have your engine running at the sleeves where the swingarm pivots slide through the frame... had similar problems with mine... when you rev the motor, the sleeves have a tendency to rattle and rotate inside the pivots... failing that, check to see the shock bolts are all tight, and if that doesnt locate the rattles, then it may be a worse case scenario... main bolt or clip retaining the clutch basket...or bottom end bearings... bottom end bearings will be a "deep" rattle... clutch will sound like a bit of knocking when you rev it.. i haven't pulled the clutch cover off mine yet, so i cant tell you whether it's held in place by a large nut behind the pressure plate, or a clip.. have heard rumours the new generation loncin engines use a clip to retain the clutch basket... Mr Cactus, correct me if i'm wrong... yet to pull this thing apart to see how it breaks... lol

 

[Freak370]

great review
well done thanks im sure u have helped many many people
including me

 

[AtomikG]

Awesome review. I just bought myself a Kuda Pro. I think these are the exact same bike. Any ideas on the best place to get the new carby jet from? Or the taper bars and fork guards too? Im in WA.

 

[JOEL10]

hey guys whats the expected time for my forks to last before they need repairs?

 

[LTN16]

Great Review thump*140. Reading your review makes me want to get one.

So they produce 15.5kw which is about 20.7hp that ain't to bad.

Can we have an update on how the motor is holding up ?

 

[thump*140]

AtomikG: The Kuda Pro is nearly identical, other than the fact it runs CR-F style plastics, has the Gen 2 air-cooled motor (which appears to be better than the Gen 3 power-wise) and has shorter travel front forks by a couple of inches... at least they're the differences i can see from the pics on ebay... not yet seen a Kuda in the flesh... oh, it also has lights and instrumentation, but that goes hand in hand with the Kuda being the "enduro" model, the Blitz being the "mx" model... most bike shops will be able to supply main jets for you, as well as handlebars and fork guards... in the case of parts like these, the money you save on buying them on ebay, you will lose again with postage costs... support your local bike shops when you can... used to work oil rigs out of perth, and if memory serves there is a really good big bike shop in Mandurah... cant remember the name unfortunately...

Joel10: How long forks will last is like asking why is the sky blue, or why do women get angry with you for no reason and tell you that everything is fine, ha ha!! no one knows the real answer... the forks on my blitz have so far held up pretty well, and i'm kinda heavy and reasonably quick, and have done many hours in sandy and dusty terrain, and am yet to see any weeping from the seals... and i have bought two brand new Yamaha YZ-F's in the past, that have blown fork seals less than three hours from new... so forks are reasonably "individual" in that respect.. some blow straight away, some will last a month or so, some will do a season of being hammered... Basically if you see any oil weeping from the fork seals, or if the fork action deteriorates rapidly, then yeah, it might be time for a service... whilst some specialist suspension shops wont touch the chinas, some are more than happy to have a look inside them and see how much they can improve them.... Here in Adelaide we have a shop called Hoey suspension, and i handed them a little KTM 250SX-f copy, with terrible fast-ace copy suspension... they saw it as a challenge, and now the faux KTM is about on par with a jap mxer as far as handling goes... best bet is to ring around, and see who wants to play with it...

LTN16: So far, i'm pretty impressed with the motor... no problems have reared their heads yet, the clutch is holding out pretty well, it doesnt seem to overheat (have given it a good thrashing in some dunes over 4 days in 38degree heat and not a drop of coolant was spat! If it's gonna cook, deep sand and a hot day will do it)
The jetting seems to be sorted pretty well, revs cleanly and crisply, but i am still yet to find the time and funds to do the engine mods i intend to... i still think there are a few horsepower yet to be mustered up easily and cheaply... overall i cant fault the motor, other than power delivery...yes they deliver the 20-something kw, but the power is quite low in the rev range... plenty of torque, but they dont like to rev much... without having done the mods yet, i cant attribute this to pipe, carby or cam settings, but given the chance and the spare time, another review will be posted for those who want extra ponies or just want to move the power higher up the rev range and give the bike the top end sting the motor should be capable of....
and if it matters, a few months on, and the electric starter and electrical system in general are still all working fine.... (proper cleaning, maintenance and copious amounts of WD-40 are the key words here...)

 

[pitpro_rep]

hey how do they go on on jumps (20-40ft)

 

[PDM007]

Hi All - let me firstly begin by saying thankyou for the informative discusion on this subject. l will be picking up my Atomik Blitz tomorrow afternoon and then research the notes off this forum before taking myself for a ride. Keep up the great work.

 

[Peter1230]

i would say a decent pipe would be the way to go.. i used to have a hummer.. this thing is alot better than the hummer.. but if the pipe is simpler then you will find it hard to get a full exhaust system as the pipe is a really strange shape and bend.. but if you could get one that would loosen it up a bit.

 

[iRide4life]

Would you be able to install lights and horns like the kuda pro has for recreational registration???